Incommando

I think that bullet choice is as important as the difference between a .380 ACP , which is also the 9mm short, 9mm Kurz, and 9x17, and the 9mm luger/parabellum/9x19. After 25 years of carrying a Glock 27 40 S&W concealed I now carry a Taurus PT738 TCP .380. It has a proven track record and although it doesn't have the big-name panache it is a very serviceable weapon. I got to shoot up an old Kevlar vest with it using Glaser Pow'rBall ammo and I feel confident in its stopping power. I carry a jeep key and a house key on a simple round key holder, a small wallet with the basic crap, and a Razr Max in an otterbox. My vehicle is the place for all of that other stuff as I wear shorts, sandals, and t-shirts anytime it is above about 50 degrees I don't take all of my stuff with me.

Why long-arms? They work great if that is what you need but please be realistic about how you want to use your MJ. There are trade-offs and compromises to both LA & SA. If you are realistically going to be hitting the off-road scene hard then LA's may be the way to go. If it is going to primarily a street truck there may be better ways to go. For the rear SOA here is a great kit that gives you some seriously upgraded parts: Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube $128 http://www.barnes4wd...ombo_p_129.html Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock XJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free At least consider their spring perches at $26 as the give you axle location options and spring wrap resistance.

This link is the basic build plan and includes has as much off-the-shelf items as possible: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42254-700-off-road-capable-55-soa-lift/?hl=700 Following this recipe should result in a more complete and, if it is important to you, off-road capable SOA lift. The Initial Plan for A "Budget" SOA 5.5” lift. Front RE 5.5" Springs $87 http://mudflaps.com/...-zj-4-pair.html Adjustable Track Bar $128 http://mudflaps.com/...E1600&go=Search IRO link adapters $13 http://www.ironrocko...ategory_Code=UP RE1175 links $29 http://mudflaps.com/...p-xj-zj-tj.html Fixed lower & adjustable upper control arms $269 http://www.ironrocko...tegory_Code=XSP Allows for adjustment of the pinion angle while keeping the adjuster tucked up high. Save $20 by using fixed upper & lowers Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube $115 http://www.barnes4wd...ombo_p_129.html Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock MJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free Front brake hose 88-2000 c1500 oreilly $14x2 $28 http://www.oreillyau...&make=Chevrolet rear brake hose 89-96 dakota oreilly $23 http://www.oreillyau...03349&ppt=C0066 Total $692 F. shocks Rusty's RX16 29.92 17.52 S1 BP-7 + $66 http://www.rustysoff...ock-rx-16.html/ R. shocks Rusty's RX11 29.82 17.67 EB1-A EB1-B + $66 http://www.rustysoff...ock-rx-11.html/ Althouth the above parts list should work I believe in being realistic and open to change especially where the budget is a consideration. Although I used the above list as a guide this is what I have actually gathered to use: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28522-incommandos-4x2-redux/?hl=redux (NOTE: Final Pricing Update complete 4/1/2014) The costs including shipping for the items to get a realistic view of the actual cost. Front RE 5.5" Springs $87 $87 http://mudflaps.com/...-zj-4-pair.html Adjustable Track Bar RE1660 $125 http://mudflaps.com/...eep-xj-zj.html� Track Bar Bracket RE1665 $54 http://mudflaps.com/...eep-xj-zj.html� CL find package deal: RK QUICK DISCONNECTS RUSTY'S FIXED LOWERS RUSTY'S BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINES NIB FROM CRAIGSLIST $100 Upper adjustable control arms RE3780 Amazon $165 http://www.amazon.co...keywords=re3780 Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube $128 http://www.barnes4wd...ombo_p_129.html Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock XJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free rear brake hose Amazon 89-96 Dakota Raybestos BH38636 $17 Shocks $82 F= Monroe 32305 27.25 15.62 Amazon / R= Monroe 32370 27.25 16.12 Amazon BPE's Rough Country #1088 Amazon $25 http://www.amazon.co...gh country 1088 Total Purchased to Date Including shipping $ 783 The new prices and total include shipping charges and show that those shipping charges can drastically change your bottom line. Remember that paying more for the part and/or bundling parts from the same supplier even if an individual part in the group may be cheaper somewhere else may save you a lot of money on shipping. Of course shopping for free shipping items is a great idea. I have found that the RE4020 Adjustable upper control arms are $173 and shipped free from Mudflaps.com. The $160 IRP uppers are $178 with shipping. $5-$10 here and there adds up just as quickly in savings as it does in nickle and dime charges. The other popular SOA recipe that is often cited on here would be several hundred dollars more than this price when you add everything to make it actually "complete." I mentioned that you can often find good used parts and new parts that folks have bought but did not use. I found a package deal on CL that included NIB fixed Rusty's extended LCA's, Rusty's braided front extended brake lines, and a never installed Rock Krawler quick-disconnect kit for $100. To purchase these three items new and to have them shipped to me would have been $290.

You have an 8.25 already? if the ratio is the same why would you do the rear SOA and then re-do it later? http://comancheclub.com/topic/42254-700-off-road-capable-55-soa-lift/?hl=700

You do not tilt the axle up for our kind of rear drive shafts. For drive shafts with one u-joint at each end you want the pinion yoke and the transfer case out pout to be parallel to each other. In other words they should be at the same angle. Double carden/CV type shafts with dual u-joints on one end require the pinion yoke to be raised. Some people dial the rear pinion done just a tad so that it rides correctly under power when the front of the axle gets lifted.

There are kits out there and you have seen threads here. Search SOA here or on Google and you will be reading for days

What that linked post calls "100% complete" is anything but. In fact as completed it was about $1300 or so if you price the complete lift as you read through the article. Also consider that the author states that it is for looks and was designed for on-road use not off-road. I should start my pieced together 5.5" SOA next weekend. I have a quality off-road capable parts list and then the actual parts I am using listed in a couple of threads. It is actually complete and is realistically priced at $800 or so. I can't link it from my phone but they are both under my posts if you are curious

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Plug in your numbers there and play with combo's. Power is not the issue gearing is IMHO. Many early Taco's got by on 33's & 35's with less horsepower than the 2.8's claimed HP.( I think torque is the more relevant number anyway but that is another issue altogether) Those taco's (even before they were called Tacoma's) had much greater gearing options available and they still suffered at some point due to the compromises that had to be made regarding street versus trail performance. I assume by wanting to run 33-35" tires on a D35 you mean to use it for looks only anyway so I would be biased towards realistic street ability at that point. If you had a stick with a low first gear of at least 4-something and some pretty low gears like 5.38's you may be able to make such a combo livable.

hey VA is the worst state to live in in my opinion, i'd rather live in coralina, texas, tenn, Ga or any southern state that doesn't require state inspection, Redwolf No inspections here. No emissions testing/checks. Taxes aren't crazy.

1st one

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. O Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY. How did you do it?

Goodyear Get Stuck-Anywheres... :redX: I always have that luck, too. Things are falling out of trees...until I need one.

Thanks for the tip

I need the cab corner on the passenger side from the door & wrapped around the back of the cab past the pinched seem and up at least to the body line below the window. Everything I have found available around here is not really worth the work of using due to rust. I think shipping it would be difficult and expensive from Massachusetts but if you were willing to try and ithat piece is pretty solid what would you want for it? .Here is what I need: It is a $400 truck so I have never pursued any high-dollar fixes for this.

Yeah a brake drum full of mud has little stopping power

I and many others spray Pam on various parts before such wheeling trips. It actually works.

Ever hear of these? You use it as a top-coat and rain and other wet things like mud are supposed to slide right off instead of stick. It is supposed to work on metal, plastic, even cloth and leather according to the ads. Rustoleum's NeverWet may be the biggest name but there are several other brands out there with similar claims. Anyone who has ever wheeled in mud ( real mud...not that water puddle crap the 4x4 rags "test" mud tires in out west) knows that it gets EVERYWHERE and makes clean-up a bear. I often wait until it dries and then I crawl around under the jeep with a long screw driver to knock the crap off and then put it in a 5-gallon bucket to haul away. Sometimes I fill multiple buckets. Mud getting stuck in rims causes its own special issues. So...what do you think of coating the chassis, wheel backs, drive train components, etc... with this stuff so that the mud does not stick in the first place?

http://www.bosozokustyle.com/2009/03/21/exhaust-of-the-week-insideout-pipe/

"What is this rust everyone keeps talking about?" If this wasn't a family friendly forum I would tell you to bite me..... :waving: lol You are just jealous of the much improved performance and MPG that we can achieve with our greatly lightened rust belt MJ's. Stacks on pick-ups are often viewed as the current version of giant wings on ricers.

The rough ride complaints remain as far as I can tell. Against my advice a buddy put an RC 4.5" on his xj last fall. Rides like crap.

Perches are from $15-$30 and getting them right in both width and pinion angle is worth the effort and expense of welding them on IMHO. My favorites: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Anti-Wrap-Leaf-Spring-Perches_c_36.html Maybe the easiest way for a swap using seriously stout pieces: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Axle-Swap-Combo_c_39.html The XJ perch spacing is similarly close, too, the but there have been issues with just bolting an XJ axle under an MJ on the XJ perches.

Yes it does.

There were dozens and dozens of models with various versions of Dana 44's. Don't get hung up on using a D44 just because they were an original option. Of more importance would be getting an axle that matches the vehicle. By far the easiest swap is the 8.25 from an XJ especially the 29 spline version from a later XJ. It is the right width and bolt pattern. It and the other common swap, an Explorer 8.8, require far less adaption than 99% of rear D44's. The Isuzu axles have six lugs and a Pick up axle would be too wide and have the wrong pattern. Factory MJ/XJ D44's are way over-priced. The D44 and 8.25 are virtually a tie in strength and the 8.8 is stronger and has Disc brakes.

The pic is generic and not if the individual shock. They are correct form the application

I am sold on the zone myself