Liketosmash

I ended up drilling small holes all around the broken screw until I could get it out. Take care as you can lose a lot of drill bits this way. I then filled with hot glue because I'm lazy and its fast. Been holding up just fine. When putting screws back in it helps to put some liquid wrench etc. Those screws just seem to bind putting them back in.

I had nearly the same issue on the block I just rebuilt. My mechanic friend who helped me with the rebuild has rebuilt many much higher performance engines was not too concerned with it based on how the seal functions. I have about 100 miles on the engine but so far no issues.

Quick update on the build. Took it out for a drive last week to get a chip repaired in the windshield and the engine died and I had to tow it home. After some investigation the Fuel pump went out. Bought a Delphi HP10148 Fuel Pump assembly that I found a $20 deal on and spent hours retrofitting the pump to fit the pump to the Comanche hanger and fuel sender. Meanwhile I couldn't leave things alone and started pulling my rear bumper to get it painted and to add some license plate lighting since it had none and I decided to bite the bullet and purchased a used AX-15 to replace the BA-10. The Ax-15 is out of a wrangler so it seems like it is clocked a little higher and I had to change the input shaft on the transfer case from 21 to 23 spline. Thankfully a friend had the part I needed to make that change. About halfway through getting the transfer case back together. Thankfully the bearing, clutch and other parts all seem like they will work with the current setup. Guess we will find out when we put it all back together. Funny part to the story, the guy I bought the AX-15 from threw in a 4x4 Comanche rear drive shaft. It is nearly identical to the one I just had made. Wish I had that 2 weeks ago to save me a little $$$.

Exterior is put back together other than a few small things and it's registered, plated and back on the road. Unfortunately I think the BA10 is about shot. Sounds like the bearings are going out on it so I have been looking for an ax-15 but not much on my area. Seems like most of these are automatics around here.

When I got shoes for my 87 Advanced Auto listed 2 different sets of brake shoes. I just bought both and returned the ones I didn't need. Definitely seems like there are 2 or maybe even 3 options for rear brake shoes on the Comanches As for the parts houses.... I have bought and returned more parts that didn't fit for this truck then for any other. Just seems like there was a lot of small variability between the Comanches/Cherokees year by year especially during the AMC to Chrysler change over.

I just installed AC into my 87 Comanche from a donor 88 Cherokee. The Comanche was originally a 2.5 but I swapped the 4.0 from the Cherokee in at the same time. So not sure about what additional brackets or issues you will run into with the 2.5. As for the wiring, some of the wiring was in the Comanche but I had to steal one short harness that went from the airbox to a connector behind the radio/control area. The connector was not the same type but both were I believe 4 pin heavy gauge and the colors matched up so I made it work. One had flat pins where as the other had round. The system has not been evacuated and recharged yet but I see no reason it will not work as everything else matched up. Getting the airbox out and back in was the hardest part.

Interior lights look great!

I purchased a couple of these caps so I am all set. Thank you!

2nd attempt Front driveshaft is in New tires and painted rims done Grill is also going back together. Still need to get the bumper cleaned up and back together plus the interior. I know the purists will probably hate it but I like it. Also starting to get the exhaust done. I went with a thrush turbo style for the exhaust and it sounds quite good.

I agree they aren't priced too bad on eBay even if they are just a simple piece of plastic. Just was asking my friends her first especially since I don't really need new and wouldn't mind having a set of 3 or 4 extra if someone had some. I'm sure these fall off and get lost so nice to have extras. Schardein the other style is what I have 1 of but I prefer the flat black caps. Thanks for the replies.

Makes ebay look like a good deal. For now they seem to fit the look I'm going for but of course If I find a nice set of turbine wheels for a steal ....

Looks like they are part 8952-003-763. I see a few new old stock ones on ebay and they aren't crazy expensive. Just feeling broke and figured someone who switched to alloys might have some laying around they would want to part with.

Anyone have some of these black flat caps that were used on the steel wheels laying around? I have 3 but could use 1 or even a few more if they are cheap enough.

Yes, I fully understand it needs to be a hose rated to be submerged in fuel...Thanks! As for status updates: - Rear brakes done and brakes bled - Transmission filled - Transfer case filled - Rear Diff cleaned, re-sealed and filled - Started stripping and painting the steel rims - Rear drive shaft made and installed For those that want to know I went with a 42" u-joint to u-joint rear driveshaft. I would say it could have been 1/4 to 1/2 longer and been fine. This is for a BA-10 4x4 with a Dana 35. I lengthened the Cherokee shaft rather than cutting down the 2wd Comanche driveshaft with the rubber sleeve.

Yeah I have to say when I pulled that mess out I was like... what a dumb design. I think that hose and the rubber bushings that had also turned to mush were the most disgusting thing yet. And that is saying a lot since the battery tray and other areas where full of rat nests and the treats they left behind.

Quick update on the project.... IT's ALIVE!!! After fixing several fuel leaks she's running great -New o-ring in fuel rail -tightened several leaking clamps around the fuel filter -pulled fuel pump as the engine ran for a while and died out and found the in the tank hose connecting to the fuel pump had ruptured and turned to mush Gotta say it sounds fantastic Other items I've gotten done since the last post: - Radiator, tank and hoses installed - Cut out the heater control vacuum switch as the plastic connector broke putting it back in - A/C lines and compressor hooked back up. Still need to be charged but that may be a spring project - Air box cleaned and back in with a new filter - Washer fluid reservoir back in - Pulled rear tires and drums and found the drums were awful. Thankfully the ones from the Donor Cherokee were great and a direct fit - Opened rear Diff and in the process of cleaning and refilling Up Next - Tires and driveshafts...

Thanks to everyone for the offers and to cjate for sending me the parts. Great to have such an active forum to locate these hard to find parts.

Progress and set backs... Made it back from Florida trying to get motivated again and do all the little things I forgot when putting the engine back in. -Fuel and transmission lines are hooked back up -Making progress on getting the shifter and 2wd-4wd lever in the truck. -Wiring hooked up -Exhaust down pipe reconnected -Fuel in the tank -Battery and box in - More painting and cleaning Hooked up the power for the very first time and gauges came to life and fuel pump did its thing Cranked it over and the starter turned the motor which is very promising since I really don't know how much was working Quickly found a big fuel leak where the regulator meets rail Tried to clean up the o-ring without success but the engine popped a few times which is a good sign that things are heading in the right direction. I also attempted to install my front drive shaft from a donor 89 Cherokee and found out that my front drive shaft is too long as its from an automatic. The only shop that cuts driveshafts in town apparently is out of business so I purchased a used one from ebay that should work.. I hope. Of course I still need to get a drive shaft made for the rear. Originally I was going to cut down the 2wd rear driveshaft but I think I am going to lengthen the one from the Cherokee instead as it doesn't have the bonded rubber deal. The good news... I have an emblem and taillight in the mail thanks to this forum. Dorman Help 80020

Took a look at the factory boxes for the 1988 4.0L and 1987 2.5L last night and the boxes are very similar but have a few different locations for some of the vacuum lines. I definitely have a spare 2.5L snorkel but may be using the 2.5L airbox box bottom or top with the 4.0L to eliminate some of the vacuum line mess. Just not sure yet. PM me if your interested in just the snorkel.

Ran into an issue installing a front driveshaft on my Comanche last night. A bit of history, the 1987 Comanche started as a 2wd and I converted it over to 4wd using a 1988 donor Cherokee. The donor Cherokee was missing the front driveshaft but I found one from a 1989 Cherokee and figured problem solved. Went to install the front driveshaft last night and .... its too long. I have now learned that the front driveshaft on an automatic Cherokee is longer than the driveshaft on a manual Cherokee. So I'm in search of a front driveshaft for a manual transmission Cherokee or I might get it cut down when I get the rear driveshaft cut down. As I have run into so many small differences on the various years just checking in here to see if there are any other driveshaft variances I need to look out for. Is the manual front driveshaft the same for all manual transmissions or are there several options? Quick specs on what I have: 1987 Comanche 1988 Cherokee 4.0L engine from 1988 Cherokee BA10 manual 5 speed transmission from 88 Cherokee 1989 Cherokee front driveshaft

Thanks everyone for all the pictures and information. Might try to find a top panel and build my own for the rest. I still don't have a clear picture of what I'm doing on the interior yet but this gives me a great starting point.

Just found this post so maybe I have what I'm looking for.

Anyone have pictures of the rear interior panels in or out of the truck. Trying to get an idea of what these look like as they are missing from my truck. It's mostly a buy vs build question on what I want to do on the back wall and so far I'm not real impressed with the other plastic panels in the Comanche or Cherokee. It's items 5 and 6 in the picture below and from what I can tell they are still available new at $45+ each

Actually I'm looking for the lowercase style to match the one I have. I thought that was the early style and what came on the truck but maybe this badge isn't original to my truck.

Missing a Comanche emblem on my drivers side and would really like to get a replacement. Truck is an 87. Also could use a tail light for the passenger side as the lense is broken out. Would even just take a lense. Not looking for perfection and willing to fix them up as long as they are whole and in a repairable state.