MrFreeze5

Spidertrax is the only way to go when it comes to Jeep spacers. Check on ebay, they often list blems on there for cheaper. I had a set on my ZJ, which has since moved over to my MJ. I am WELL acquainted with the company and havent found many other companies that are as good to deal with or have such high quality and service standards. Get the Spidertrax spacers and you will not be sorry.

Awesome! Thanks! Those measurements help me a lot. I just put my order in for new shocks and U-bolts, so hopefully I will be ready to install next week!

What is the measurement between the spring perch and the shock tab if you don't mind? I am setting up my 8.8 brackets this weekend and having that measurement to start with would save me a roll in the dirt. Are you going to try to adapt the exploder sway bar?

Ive seen a few guys put the short shocks on there, but I would think if you got a heavy load in the bed, you would be near the end of those shocks usefulness. Why are you avoiding welding new shock tabs on? You have to weld new perches on anyway, and the shock mounts only cost $15-25. Why not add them at the same time? Especially if you are going to buy new(shorter) shocks anyway, why not spend the $30 more, get them welded on, and buy the correct length shocks.

People will most definitely cut those off in traffic. You give the general public more credit than they are due, there are some D-U-M-B people out there. I have been cut off numerous times in a deuce on the highway and seen cars bounce off the side off a military vehicle they had NO IDEA was there. The Mog on the other hand, I would give that one a wide berth myself :D

It was cool and in the 70s here yesterday. Didnt turn the AC on at all, just opened all the doors and windows and let the breeze take care of the rest. :D

Its a goiter :eek:

Hey, looks like the old catalog got thrown out with all the other junk, but it looks like someone else had the answer. And if I remember correctly, there is only one manifold for the 2.8 as was mentioned. It should be the same part for S10/Blazers, Camaros, Comanches, Cherokees, etc.

Just chop down a FF D60, and run SF 35spline shafts. The big problem with both the 60-2's listed above (J4000 & Mopar automotive) is the wheel bearings. J4000 bearings are unobtanium, and $100+ smackers a piece. Mopar automotive bearings are decent tapered rollers, and easy to find, but they require preload, and a center-button between the ends of the two axle shafts to preload the shafts against. Running an aftermarket differential (posi, locker, spool, etc) can complicate fitting the center-button. The easy way out is to run 'Green' bearings, they're sealed ball bearings that don't require preload, but greatly reduce the load carrying ability of the axle (not a good thing with a D60 in a pickup truck). If you start with a FF 60, chop to fit, and bang on some big 9" Ford housing ends you'll get the width you want, a stronger center section, thicker tubes, cheap to find, strong wheel bearings, and a good selection of Ford brakes to boot. You do have to worry about properly aligning the ends, and buying shafts. I think I got my Moser shafts for ~$300. That's not much more than you'll pay for a set of bearings & seals for the J4000 axle. I know I can mod another axle to work, but I am trying to build my Willys with only parts that came in a Jeep at some point or another. Ive got a ford 9" that would be perfect for the truck, but it never came in a Jeep, so I won't use it for this project. It will only be running 35's with a 4.0, so super strength isnt an issue, but it needs to be bigger than a rear 44 and 5 lug. If I were to do a FF 60 for some reason, I would just end up putting 5 lug hubs on it and keeping it FF, but no 8 lug on the Willys.

Alright, I just gotta say, you guys SUCK. Now I want a 60-2. I was unaware of that axle and it is exactly what I need for my 58 Willys Wagon project. Just what I need, another rare axle hunt to fit my build. Geez, you guys are not helping my affliction here.

I was cleaning out my basement last week and I found an edelbrock catalog from 1999. I know for a fact its in that book since I had a 2.8l Blazer at that time. I MIGHT have thrown it out though with everything else, but Ill check tonight.

For the first few months I owned my MJ the gauge was just pinned to the right. Well, about a week ago, I noticed after I had been parked on an incline for a few hours and had to deal with a funny driveway that the needle was going crazy and the fuel light was on. The needle wobbles around like a drunken sailor after last call, almost like the sender is sloshing around, and whenever I stop, it will settle down to empty. It has been doing this for about a week now, the needle goes crazy when I'm moving, drops to E when I'm not, the light on the whole time. Weird. Luckily, my fuel pump starts howling about 10mi before I run out of gas, so as long as I pay attention, I'm usually good without gauge :D

Its a good option if its available. Its as good(or possibly better) than some other factory axle combos since it is a bit narrower than your average 67-69" "fullwidth." Its still a low pinion front and and yes, a 30spl rear, but so is just about any other factory 60 you get. Its well known that a stock trim dana 60 isnt all that, but it has the same potential as any other rear 60 to be built to the hilt. The real downside to this setup is that the J trucks were not that common and finding axles is not an everyday thing like waggy's, GMs, Fords, and Dodges. I can find a 44/60 from any of those trucks in less than a day, but a J truck takes some more effort, and occasionally more $$. Even though the 60 shaft is the same diameter as the front 44, the rear axle does not carry any weight, it just transfers torque. So just in the design it is stronger. And if you do break a rear axleshaft, your wheel will not fall off. Granted, if you don't have a locker youre still stuck, but at least your wheel didnt fall off! Plus the opposed roller bearing setup is nice and easy to service. Later you can bore the spindles, upgrade to 35 spline and call it good, but even in stock form, it will be an upgrade for whatever came in an MJ. But you should strongly consider a disc brake swap. It seems obscene to swap in so much weight with the stock drums considering how heavy the axle is. Another disadvantage, is due to their rarity, junkyard spare axle shafts arent as easy to find, same as full donor axles. But as axles, theyre a good combo to start with. If I can find a J20 dana 60 I will jump on it for my Willys Wagon project. I'm building it with only parts that came in some model of Jeep at some point(4.0/AX-15/dana 300/44/60) and would love to get a J truck rear 60 to keep it "authentic." i saw go for it. On 36s, youll be fine, but you will have a decent platform worth upgrading in the future if needed.

Because its starting a new thread beating a dead horse. Theres lots of info out there, Ive found several threads with lots of measurements, but lots of contradictions and corrections, so I was hoping to find a more application specific shaft, as opposed to a specific length shaft if that makes sense. I'm really just looking for "close enough" for a week or two until I can get my 2wd shaft shortened to the proper length. So I would think just about any of the SWB 4wd rear driveshafts would work for a few limited miles to the driveline shop. Ive got a few shafts around myself, all ZJ, but none of them are long enough, even the 2wd ZJ shaft I have. And the only 4x4 MJs I have found in the junkyards recently are LWB, so no luck pulling one there either. The issue is I am doing a 4wd conversion AND SOA/axle swap at the same time. I will have my 2wd shaft shortened, but I am on my own for getting the shaft to and from the shop, and I need all the final components in place so I can get the right measurements and only do this once.

The spline count is not an issue since I am using the slip yoke that came with my Tcase('96 242) since its sealed. And I am doing a 4wd conversion so I can't get an exact measurement, I'm just going on what I have found on the site here. IIRC the 5sp/4wd/SWB/D35 is 43.25" but there is conflicting info. But if the driveshaft is maybe an inch long its OK since I plan on having my SOA installed in the next 2-3 weeks, but I am sick of driving around with a severely leaking slave cylinder.

The conversion would be sweet and the parts look cool, and the price is great, but it seems a bit too good to be true. I really like the setup and if the price is accurate, I would be all over it, but I will let someone else take the plunge first :D

Still looking. I can have my 2wd driveshaft shortened once I get my SOA done, but I need to get my AX-15 swapped soon since my slave cylinder is leaking pretty badly and it would be nice to have the right shaft on hand since I can't have the truck down for long.

By that logic, the gas station harbors thieving bastards then because they all pre-authorize for a specified amount. You arent actually charged that amount since it has not been deducted from your account, but the amount is put on hold until the transaction is completed. Pre-auth holds rarely last longer than 24hrs in my experience. The reason they do it is likely because they do not actually process the payment until the item is packaged for shipment. The one exception I have had is a company that will pre-auth your sale, and then the item is on backorder, but they don't actually bill you until the item ships. I ordered some items from Jegs a few weeks ago and my bank statement showed a deduction in the total amount of the sale, but only a few of the items shipped. After a day, the pre-auths cleared and I had only been billed for about half my total order that they had in stock and shipped out. Once the BO items came in, I was charged for those items and they were shipped to me. But the final total cost was actually different than the pre-auth charge(it was lower).

Depends on the rock. 44/44 seems to be a good solid setup for just about any Jeep that doesnt see extreme trail useage.

Its not listed specifically, but they do fit fine. They have a midsize 6' listed for several applications. Same as we can use other vehicle hard toppers. But the soft topper doesnt seem as out of place if it is an inch off like a hard top does. I currently have a S10 topper on my MJ and the only place where it doesnt quite line up is at the top of the cab. I think with a soft topper it wouldnt be noticeable. Plus, I was at Bestop about a week ago and was talking with them about it since I really want one. It should work.

Bestop makes one too. http://www.bestop.com/index.php?s=53

I am no longer pleased with my HF press. I have tried using it several times this week and it has yet to successfully complete one press. Ive got 4 ujoints to remove, can't get a single one to break loose. And YES, I did remove all the clips and theyve been soaking in PB for days. I narrowed a dana 44 this week, cut the knuckles off and ground off the welds, it wouldnt press the tube out of the knuckle, wouldnt even budge it. Had to cut it out with a jigsaw. Whenever I try and do anything with it the whole thing flexes and creaks but doesnt accomplish a damn thing. I don't have a torch, but may go pick one up tonight. I'm fed up with the damn thing and don't get it. These Ujoints should come right out, I usually just use a bench vice and sockets and have no problems, a 12 ton press should be easy, even on 30 year old Ujoints.

do you have any pics of your set-up? Its all still sitting on the kitchen counter, but should be installed in the next week or two max I think. My shock mounts are the Currie ones pictured in the last post. The metal is a bit thinner than the MORE or RE mounts, but I think it should be fine. I bought 2 sets, one for my ZJ, and one for my MJ, and I needed something that would stand off the tube far enough to clear the coil bucket on my ZJ; but on the MJ, clearance shouldnt be an issue.

I have been doing some thinking on my AX-15 and decided that if I use the 242 from my ZJ that is just sitting there on the floor, then I will have just about everything I need and can do the trans/tcase swap with the SOA and do the driveshaft thing only once. Plus if I use my ZJs 242, then that means I have to get it a dana 300, darn. My AX-15 I picked up is from a YJ and I have seen the discussions and pics on the differences in the clocking between the wrangler transmissions and the others. It looks like using a 231 clears OK, but my 242 looks huge. I don't have a 231 on hand for comparison, but I think its bigger, so I am a little concerned about fitment. But I have also heard that the 242 is clocked differently than the 231, so I don't know, might fit like a dream. I will find out soon. I was looking at the back side of the transmission and I can see where the holes could be drilled for a lower clocking, so if the tcase doesnt quite fit, I should be able to make it. I havent seen an XJ AX-15 for comparison, but I can imagine the differences if there were 2 side by side. Image Not Found Brake lines are on the way and just as soon as I can track down some LCAs, its on!

I just got back from Colorado Auto and Parts(think thats the name) on Radcliff, off Santa Fe and Oxford. They had a 91 LWB comanche with 4.0/AX15/NP231 just begging to be picked. The body was beat to hell, the front axle was CAD, and the rear axle was D35, but that AX15 and tcase looked pretty good. If I get motivated, I may go back and pull it, but I doubt it since I just picked up an AX15 yesterday.