MrFreeze5

Spidertrax is the only way to go for Jeep spacers IMO. I used to work there and know that the quality is top notch and the best in the business. Ive also seen the test reports of the materials used in competitors spacers...its not always what it is advertised as! And hubcentric spacers are absolutely needed on the front at least and a very good idea for the rear. don't SKIMP ON WHEEL SPACERS!!! Plus Spidertrax spacers are double anodized which really helps protect both the spacer and the wheel. You have alloy wheels, so its not as big of an issue, but its a no-no to put a bare aluminum against bare steel. Corrosion and nastiness will ensue over time. Spidertrax spacers are the only ones I will ever use for my vehicles. With the exception of 8 lugs spacers. In that case, I would go with Ballistic Fab spacers. Oh, and if hate dealing with companies with poor customer service, then Spidertrax is again the right answer.

If you want steel braided, the Crown lines from Quadratec is the best deal I could find, and Crown makes decent brake lines. I ordered a set of these a few weeks ago(not my first set of crown lines, had em on my Samurai, and have a set for my ZJ) and they are nice, should do the trick. Plus theyre coated, which some of the cheaper SS ones arent. If you don't need steel braided, then as was mentioned, there are cheaper options. Those lines are the best deal you will likely find as far as normal retail(not a sale) prices on steel braided lines. I got the set with only one rear brake line since I am doing an axle swap and changing the brakes, and IIRC, it only ran me about $85.

Thats cool and would be great for a part time or trail rig. I know that filter is noticeably loud under the hood in stock location in my ZJ with all its sound deadening, I could imagine it would get really old really fast if it were louder, and in a car I drove for more than just short trips. It would drive me nuts to hear that howl every day through the vents driving to work, especially since I don't have a radio. But just as soon as my ZJ is done being rebuilt and the MJ is a trail rig and not a DD, then I will be doing this mod. Its a great idea!

Mine would do that when the coolant got too low and despite my new valve cover gasket, it still leaks oil slightly. When the temp would spike, it would start burning the leaked oil. But it would only do this to me when I havent topped off the coolant for a while and it gets too low and doesnt cool anymore and the temp spikes into the red. But my truck does not smoke when its at normal temp. If the coolant is boiling badly, I may get a little steam coming out, and with the hood closed, it looks like smoke coming out the front, but just a little.

Got some confirmation today! I hit up Taco Hell today. Temps were good and actually didnt even hit 210 until I was on my way back home. I usually take the back way through the neighborhood to avoid all the other stupid people on the road, but decided to hop on the main road so I could avoid the stop signs. Driving at speed for a mile brought the temp back down below 200 and when I got home, it wasnt boiling at all. So I guess my propensity to take the back way was keeping temps higher.

Lookey what I found. Its is a crack about an inch long between the threads of the bottle and is visible from both inside and outside. This must be why I am not maintaining pressure. At least I hope it is :brows: Image Not Found

Aside from the boiling issue, it seems to cool just fine, especially now that I have the clamp on the cap. It still boils, but it takes longer to get to full temp, and remains steady. Before it would fluctuate as much as 20-30 degress depending on traffic and how fast I was going. I have not had to top off the bottle yet, and I am going to see if I can go a bit longer than before without refilling. The tstat is doing its job so long as there is enough coolant in the system and it maxes out at about 210 sitting in traffic. The rad hoses are good enough for now, and arent collapsing, even though the lower seems to be missing the spring inside. The radiator itself has no leaks or obvious damage and looks to be in good shape for its age, at least from the outside. Next week, I plan on doing a tune up on the MJ. Rad hoses, new CCV elbow, spark plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, and oil change. Ill check the radiator at that time. I do not have AC, but will be retrofitting an electric fan as soon as I can manage to go pick it up. In a little while, I am going to go out and check for cracks in the bottle neck since it still seems to be losing pressure regardless of the clamped cap. I wouldnt be surprised if the opening was cracked or something.

Well, after running some errands today, I think I am back to the loss of pressure idea. The clamp on the cap seems to help the system be more stable and run cooler in general, but I don't think it can hold the full pressure. Without the clamp I can pop the cap off without unscrewing it. My reasoning behind this is I just got back from running a few short errands nearby and the truck stayed nice and cool the whole time staying around 190-200. I made 2 stops a few miles apart, and both of which I was around 200 or so when I stopped. No boiling at all. After my last stop on my way home, I got caught in the same crappy construction clusterfook that has been causing all sorts of trouble in this area for months. Sitting there, I reached 210 where it held steady, and when I got home a few blocks away, it was boiling away. So I guess it really isnt holding the proper pressure to raise the boiling point high enough. So long as I am moving, the cooling system does its job and keeps the engine in a good range below the tstat threshold, but sitting with little air flow seems to get the coolant right to the boiling point. Guess its time to look into a new bottle and/or cap. Beats head work though!

Have you tried a dealer? Or one of the larger online retailers with lots of OEM parts like Quadratec or 4WD Hardware?

Ding ding ding, I think we have a winner. I tried the hose clamp method and took a trip up to the local wendys drive thru to test. First thing I noticed was that the engine temp rose slower and stayed more stable. It stayed around 190-200 and did not reach 210 until I was almost back home. Also previously, I could watch the temp gauge move depending on traffic and speed I was moving. But when I got home, the bottle was bubbling like crazy, although the engine temp was still right where it should be. So I guess the exhaust is pressurizing the cooling system after all, although it takes some time to do it. Not the answer I wanted, but at least its an answer. Now to figure out if its a crack or the head gasket. My guess is a crack since it does take some time before it starts doing it. When my ZJ blew its head gasket, the expansion bottle would start bubbling almost immediately at idle. But hopefully no major failures occur in the next week since I can't do much about it now.

I don't think that is it since it should start bubbling immediately and it does not until it heats up. When the head gasket went on my ZJ 4.0 a few years ago that is exactly what happened though. That engine is what I have on hand now.

I understand what youre saying, and if it were working properly, I would not fill it so. The temp does not spike until I have been driving for a while and have managed to(i am assuming I am burning it off, because while driving it does remain within spec and below 210) go wherever it goes. The cap will pop off whenever there is pressure, but it won't erupt out unless it gets really hot, or I drive for a little while. Whatever is happening to the coolant, it is receding enough that by the time it reaches the boiling point, the overflow bottle is already at halfway or less. The temp spikes suddenly after it has reached a critical point in its consumption of coolant and can't cool anymore. By this time( about 20-30 miles) it takes significantly more water than if I were to just top it off before I left the house. The times that it blows out are when I make a trip and forget to top it off before I leave, and decide to top it off wherever I'm at before I head back home, while the engine is still warm. Then it will overflow, but as long as I fill it while its cold, by the time it reaches the boiling point the level is within spec. It does take it a time to start boiling. I can drive to the store and back and it would be ok, but if I hit the drive through, I can expect boiling, especially if the coolant is getting low, but not low enough that it spikes. I konw the head is cracked, but like you said it could be cracked elsewhere, but I won't know without a tear down, and REALLY don't want to do that right now since Ive got too much other to worry about. It drives, and thats the best I can hope for right now. It just seems weird how it is acting. I am definitely going to address the cap sealing, but I have a feeling I am still going to be losing an inordinate amount of coolant with no obvious signs of where its going. Thats what really puzzles me, under most circumstances the coolant stays inside the system or engine, and the occasion that it really boils and erupts is very few and far between so long as I give it the right attention here and there. The only place I can figure all that coolant is going is into the cylinders, but the engine isnt running so. Regardless, the cap is about all the work I can manage on it at least over the next week or two, so hopefully that solves the major issues. I may have caused the cracks in the head that I saw. When I swapped out valve covers there were some...issues...with the grommets and screws and not paying attention I overtorqued a few. After that I got a little seepage of coolant from a bolt hole or two, but nothing would leak once the bolt was installed fully. But it would not surprise me at all if there were more cracks in the head. This engine is pushing 200k and was not well cared for by its previous owner(s).

It won't help. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. If your cooling system can't cool down to 195, it certainly can't cool down to 180. Quadratec has new pressure bottles for about $25. be sure to get the one with a new cap ... I don't think anyone has ever been able to get a seal using a new bottle with an old cap, or a new cap with an old bottle. And do NOT "top off" the bottle. Liquid does not compress, so when it heats up it has to blow the lid off. The bottle should be filled to the halfway mark (there's a post inside) when cold. Do not fill it beyond that. I know under normal circumstances it should not be filled to the top, but in the interest of not having to stop suddenly, I have been doing it temporarily. It doesnt compress, but its sure going somewhere. Really the only time I lose any coolant is if I start it briefly after filling since it burps some air out, if I leave it running, it doesnt puke anything out. The reason I want to switch to the lower tsat is for the same reason, the time it takes to rise that extra 30 degrees could mean the difference between making it to work, or pulling over on the highway.

Yeah, I am going to try a new cap for sure. Luckily theres a junkyard near me, but I have been hoping to wait to make the trip until I had some more $$ so I could make a day of it. I like the hose clamp idea though! I'm going to try that first tomorrow. If I can ever manage to make time to pick up that fan of yours from your brother it will help me out a lot since I plan to set it up on its own temp sensor with the HO water neck, as well as putting a switch on it so if I start getting too warm, or if I'm sitting in traffic, I can help the system out a little.

I know they did, which is why I decided to use that engine on another project. but if I do swap it over, I will try to use the renix electronics and the Hesco TPS adapter with the HO TB. The biggest issues I see are having to extend the wires to use the front mounted coolant sensor, and my engine does not have the spot for the knock sensor, but Ive seen the swap done before. The TPS seems to be the biggest hurdle. My fuel pump gets a little grumpy at times, so Ive been passively searching for a suitable replacement.

Sorry about the terminology, this is my first Renix jeep and I'm still getting use to its weirdness. I always seem to call the older style system by the newer terminology for some reason, no matter how much I think about it. I fill it to the top at least twice before driving. I have left it sitting idling for 30 min after filling it, and it slowly recedes. It doesnt start blowing out until it starts boiling and if I just leave it idling for a while, it doesnt seem to boil, just after driving. I did not think this type system was under pressure for some reason(brainfart) but that definately makes sense that its a lack of pressure causing the boiling. But the cap has never fit snugly since I got the truck, that I am sure of and this boiling issue and major loss of coolant has just started recently. And it will be running fine, and the temp will be within spec, then within less than a half mile, it will make i all the way to the red. I always drive with one eye on the temp gauge because of this. I'm honestly not too concerned about it since Ive been able to drive on regularly so long as I keep the coolant topped off and carry water with me, but for some reason the troubleshooting just wasnt working in my head. I just want to make sure I don't have some major issues later down the road, at least not before I can switch trucks. If the engine does go for some reason, I have a very nice 96 4.0 complete engine sitting here. I wanted to use it for another project, but if I have to Ill drop it in the MJ. I am however going to steal the water neck from the newer 4.0 so I can use the temp sensor port to run an electric fan and burp the system easier, and it has a brand new(maybe 10 miles) 180* tstat in it, so hopefully that will help a little too.

Yes, the cap is weak. The pressure cap pops off every time it starts boiling. The threads don't seat firmly at all. I hadnt thought about it pressurizing the system though, but I don't think that is it. And yeah, I still figure the cracked head as at least a partial culprit, but I would think I could expect some sort of noticeable performance difference from losing a gallon of coolant into the cylinders every time I drove. It has started idling a little rough over the last few days, but the big reason for that is because I keep breaking the off one of the CCV elbows(I have a HO valve cover) and losing vacuum because it is contacting the hood pad. The pad just touches it on a good day, but I am sure the motor mounts need to be replaced and the movement of the engine and contact with the pad break it off. edit: mine is an older renix MJ without the pressure cap on the radiator, just the cap on the expansion bottle. And it doesnt seal and keeps popping off. I really want to upgrade to the later model XJ/MJ cooling system, but the funds arent there right now. Maybe in a few weeks after I start my new job, but for now, it HAS to work until I get the company van.

For some reason, every single time I drive my truck for more than a few minutes, regardless of being on the highway or sitting in traffic, when I get home I notice that my expansion bottle is boiling, yet the engine temp remains within spec. The engine coolant sensor does work. I konw for sure, because if I do not refill my expansion bottle every other time I drive, the system somehow goes dry and the temp will suddenly spike. I don't have any leaks, and no smoke coming from the exhaust, but I have to fill up the cooling system every day. The water pump and tstat have been replaced earlier this year. The fan clutch is a little weak and probably needs to be replaced, but it works well enough. Like I said, the truck stays within spec for temp, but the coolant in the expansion bottle is boiling away, often violently if its a warmer day. And I can tell the difference between when it burps air out and when it is boiling. Ive burped the cooling system, but its not worth the effort anymore since I have to refill the system every day regardless. If I don't burp it, it will blow some bubbles when I first start it. It usually takes about 20-30 miles worth of driving before the system goes dry, or dry enough to overheat. So I carry a jug of water with me, pull over, top it off, and resume my trip. It just started doing this about a week or two ago, and had no cooling issues prior to that. I also did not have to top it off before that either, I don't know what has suddenly changed. I do know for a fact that the head has some cracking, since it will seep a bit of coolant out of a valve cover bolt hole or two when I remove the cover, but if I were pouring that much coolant into the cylinders I am sure it would make some performance problems and there is no smoke. And there is no water in the oil or vice versa. I am hoping to get away with not replacing the head for another month or two until I can finish my ZJ. Any ideas?

When I bought my Willys locally off ebay, I got a phenomenal deal on it because the seller horrifically misspelled Willys and no one else bid on it. I told him after we signed the title and I had it on the trailer, and he was a little upset, but he was a moron so I didnt care.

But it's your mother. Given all of the things provided to me by my parents (including life) over the last 25 years, I would be the most ungrateful SOB on the face of this planet if I turned in one of them because they opened my mail... I just asked them politely to stop and they did for a while - I think they just need a reminder. It doesn't really bother me much anymore since any 'sensitive' material - bills, statements, Craigslist Personals :brows: - is all delivered to me online...where every hacker in the world can see it! Just as long as it's not my parents... There were no hard feelings or stepped on toes. But it takes a firm stance to deal with my mother. Its push or get pushed.

My mom used to try and snoop through my mail when I lived at home. I threatened to turn her in for tampering with someone else's mail. She stopped.

My ZJ was the other woman years ago. Its a good thing because my girlfriend was a cheating lady of the night. Dumped the ball and chain, still got the ZJ :D

Were you only given one tracking number? You should have several for an entire lift kit.

You will have to file a claim with UPS. But if you did not have insurance on the shipment, you may be SOL. Its possible the packages could have been taken after delivery if they were just left, since UPS doesnt seem to give 2 craps about signatures anymore. I hope you got the insurance on your shipment!!!

I will see if I can find some of the pics from when one of those shims caused my lug nuts to strip off after hitting a pothole and my wheel separated from the axle. I used the smallest one I could get away with, but it didnt matter. don't cheap out on spacers!