rnobles

Anybody modified a late model header panel to fit our body lines? As opposed to changing the fenders. I was thinking of filling the corners of the header panel and just sanding down to match the top part of the fenders. Ideas....Pics.....?

I agree, in theory i should be able to find one in that price range, but around here i have not had any luck. i currently have 3.55s with the A904 3spd auto tranny.....its sad. lol i would prefer a 4.0 doner rig but have accepted that my 86 causes a few headaches with that swap and will be fine with the 2.5, just for simplicity. At this point i will take what i can get. the going rate around here seems to be in the 1000-2000 range for anything that runs....IF you can find one.

I have pretty much decided to just keep my 2.5 and just rebuild the motor. I'm also ready to do the 4wd conversion. My local jy has a 86 2.5 4wd cherokee with complete driveline intact....it has 4speed manual (ax4 i assume) np207?? and 4.11 gears. i was quoted $825 for everything, front and rear axles, front driveshaft, tranny and transfercase, flywheel, clutch pedal assembly etc...everything but the motor. Anything i should be considering given this driveline? Is that price reasonable for what I'm getting? My rig will not be used for anything close to hardcore, maybe a little playing here and there but mostly a DD type of truck that is capable of going offroad and getting back home.

I posted this as a question a few days ago and didnt get an answer so i decided to just do it and see if it would work..... My solution for making newer style gauges (with the plastic clip speedometer cable) work with the old metal clip speedometer cable. Just remove the metal clip from your old speedometer and cut out enough metal to be able to slide the clip onto the new speedometer (regular wire cutters will work fine for this). You will have to do a little bending to get everything in place so you will want to be careful not to break the ring. The groove in the new speedometer will hold the clip in place so there is no need to hold the clip down with a screw alike on the old style speedometer. Once you get the clip on the new speedometer just install as you would normally. Just did this to mine and it works like a charm. Maybe this will save a few guys the cost of a new speedometer cable.

Anybody ever modified the OLD style metal end speedo cable to fit the newer gauge cluster speedometer (plastic snap)? I know i can just buy the new cable and go about my business, but .....lol my idea: take the old metal clip and and remove enough of the bottom ring to allow it to snap in the groove of the new speedometer (kinda turning it into a snap ring) then just attach the old cable. I just don't want to mess up the clip if that idea won't work........

MAP sensor is on the firewall almost directly behind the throttle body, kinda between the throttle body and valve cover. (at least thats where its at on my 86)

I pulled the rod bearings this weekend and took them to my parts guy for replacements. He said that from the looks of them i may need to have the crank turned. the bearings were pretty worn mostly copper showing with some grooves. What should i look for on the crank to determine if i should have it turned. 153,000+ on the motor if that means anything......

OK, so i decided i would take a shot a rebuilding my 904. I was told that i should replace the torque convertor as well since i was going through the trouble, but there seems to be some confusion about what converter i need. My question is: What info should i try to round up to make sure i get the right part? It has a yellow marking, and a number stamped on it. Shouldnt that be enough info? ALSO: When i got the kit it was just seals gaskets and clutch plates, what about the bands? shouldnt those be replaced too? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Rusty

Can you hear your fuel pump when you turn the key to the "ON" position?

i have the 3spd Chrysler 904 never found a tag on the rearend (that why the tire test..) guess it wouldnt hurt to open her up though. I don't suppose there is an "easy" way to tell if its the original rearend under there?

3.55 :( According to the ol turn the back tire around 2 times test.......shaft completed EXACTLY 3.5 rotations, and did i mention its an automatic......it really makes pulling out on a busy road interesting to say the least.....

I have no real preference. Honestly i was just looking for a better gear ratio and searching car-part.com those were from the closest yard to me with that ratio at a reasonable price. They both happened to be the 8.25. I'm not trying to build a trail rig or anything, just a good weekend truck. Just want to get a little more grunt out of the ol 2.5...

I'm in the market for a new rearend, one with better gears......how concerned should i be with mileage on my junkyard searches? i have found these 2 for instance..... 96 Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 with 4.10 gears with 94K for $150 93 Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 with 4:10NL gears with 181K for $100 both with "A" grades and at the same yard In this case is the extra $50 worth it OR is that a really stupid question...?

Are ther any markings on the motor that would indicate the proper rod bearing size?

Thanks guys. That wasnt really what i wanted to hear though.......lol I was hoping yall would way she has 3:55 or something She just has NO power at all!! wanted to try to GO to a 4:10 and see some power increase. (because you can find used gears in this range fairly cheap) guess I'm going to have to aim a little higher...... plan on going through the transmission, pretty sure its gunked up pretty bad and there is a little slip in there too.

I'm sure this has been beat into the ground SOMEWHERE on here, but i can't seem to find it at the moment. 86, 2.5 automatic (tf904) 2wd, d35. what gears do i probably have? 4:10?

it has comanche listed, so maybe so... how was the fit? like factory?

Anybody bought this? If so, how was the quality and fit etc..... http://www.auto-interior.com/moldedvinyl.htm

Same problem here...i was thinking sensors too, but i swear i read on here that the computer uses presets until it gets warm, then uses the sensors. Is this true with the 2.5? :dunno:

WELL, took the jeep out of a little ride this weekend. No problems for about the first 40 miles, then i noticed a little slip. Just kinda ignored it..got home and noticed a little puddle of pink fluid forming. Had to make a trip to my parents house, so i took the jeep, it would shift from 1st to 2nd fine, but 2nd to 3rd was another story. things got progressivly worse, and needless to say, i almost didnt make it back. Got home and checked the fluid and it wasnt even touching the stick. we added about 2 quarts (still low) but went down the road to see if it made a difference and it shifted PERFECT and even let up on the leaking. there was still a drop or two here and there but not like the puddle before. Am i just looking at seals here or what? not sure about the transmission, but from what i understand its probably an AW4? 2.5 auto..

Thanks for the info! I tried to lift the window, took off door panel and grabbed the bottom of the window and picked up on it...she didnt move. going to give it another shot today and see if it will come up (i was a little aggrovated last night :headpop: ) I think I'm going to go with the cherokee fix for now and just hope that it well last a while. Its an ebay part, but from a seller that i have had a good experience with (good radiator for $.01, plus shipping 18.51 total!! :D ). i want to say that his name is alljeepparts. he has done right by me so maybe he will send some business his way... Well, this was the easiest thing i have done to the jeep so far.......its a photoshop. I KNOW, I KNOW, I KNOW it would be soooooooo much cooler if it were real....but i wouldnt do that to my MJ, it was just faster than PSing a trail rig...I'm a bit lazy sometimes. I bet the Microbus was pretty sweet!!

i was afraid that was what i was going to hear. I have found one for a cherokee (same year model) that i could have shipped to my house for about $33. does this sound like a good deal for a used part, or should i try the JY?

Had a little window issue.....I have the manual roll up windows, my window wouldnt roll ALL the way down, it stopped about an inch shy. So today i was looking at it and decided to add a little more pressure than "normal" and see if it would go down a little more. :doh: something kinda popped in the actual cranking mechanism (not the handle). it will still turn but it will not catch on anything in order to move the window and now the window is stuck all the way down. :wall: The assembly is held in with rivits, so i would have to drill them out i guess to get anywhere with this new little problem. Anybody else had this issue? if so were you able to fix it, or should i be in search of a whole new window mechanism?

don't mean to hijack......... You get the idea... Thanks Eagle, I have never heard of that place before but i will be on the lookout.

How bad is bad shape? Mine looked pretty rough, rats had decided to make a nest up there so there are 2 holes @ the visor area that you could stick a softball through in addition to a tear or two in the corners from removal and the general weakness of the materials. I removed all of the old foam and cloth with a wire brush and coated the back with resin and patched the holes and tears with fiberglass. seems as though it will work out ok. still need to get the material to recover it. May be an option to look at if you are feeling crafty...