Raven

I hate to say do a search on the jeep crd with injector issues, but that actually is the best idea to see if it is a common problem and how it was fixed. Those engine had to be used in more than one vehicle. You can also inquire about the cost to have the fuel injectors tested, rebuilt, and calibrated.

Pete if you goto the Jeep website it’ll have all models with pricing. Gladiator Rubicons starting price is around what our local dealer is asking for a base model.

My wife just told me she wants a Gladiator Rubicon so we are going to be shopping after the new year with hopes the stealership stop gouging the prices. The local Jeep dealer wants just over 43,000 for a base model with no options.

Picked these up the other day for 200usd, set of five.

BTW... I did brush off the other pack to check for numbers to see if it was aftermarket. No numbers etc..

I thought MT’s had two overload springs on the bottom? I’ve bought three MJ’s and all have the single overload leaf.

I’m just curious what spring packs. They’re on a short bed MJ.

I might pick up the Clayton adjustable tracking bar and bracket. He wants a 100 for both.

Today for 50 dollars I picked up some Bilstein 5100's and 5125's. Bought a three core all metal radiator that's steel and not aluminum for $15. Four Pro Comp Bump Stops for $175. Two Pro Comp coils (3" lift). A set of Q-tec rear leaf springs (that I won't be using). And a lifted rear shackle. I was just after the coils but the whole set was 40 dollars. I grabbed a few other things but these are the things I wanted. Here is what she looks like after the new doors, fenders, hood, and grill.

Thats a SCORE!

I traded the fenders, hood ($40), doors for Gunmetal Blue fenders. hood, doors, etc... Ive the fenders on today. Might put both doors on tomorrow (Monday).

Ive not checked. I'm going to guess its an NP231 as I know its not a 242. . This has an AW4 that I'm not going to use. More than likely I will pull the engine and transmission together and place it in storage.

Now the 4WD swap begins. :)

I bought a set of wheels last week for 100 dollars. These are a bit bigger than what came off the truck. I also recently purchased an 1998 XJ Limited Ed. for a reasonable price with new tires.

:)

When I bought this truck it was in sad condition. It's still in sad shape. I bought a lot of other things with it as well. But I only paid fifty bucks for the truck its self.

Thanks Pete. 👌😊

I’m still thinking things through. There are a few smaller goals that will eventually meet the end goal. A decent MJ, medium duty work truck, that’s well thought out and pieced together. A four inch lift that will remain spring under axle. I’ve been wanting to do a TDI project forever. About ten years ago I did buy a Sami for a TDI project. But my b@tch of a wife seemed to always screw things up. SATAN with fracking skin. Now she’s a b@tch of an ex-wife. First on my bucket list are sourcing a Dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25. It’s a medium duty work truck so I figure the Dana 30 is fine. I want to convert over to the WJ knuckles, brakes, etc.. Aim for better steering geometry. That’s kinda what’s on my table for now. And as always I appreciate any positive feedback.

I beg to differ. Fuel economy is one of the reasons to do any diesel conversion. An example is one of my old land cruiser station wagons. It averaged 12mpg on the highway. About 9mpg in city and about that offload. When converted to a diesel I was getting about 26-28mpg. Much longer range and better torque to just let it idle over obstacles off road. I don't rock crawl. Prior to swap on the highway with a 50 gallon long range tank full of petrol is about 600 miles. After my diesel swap 1300 miles on a tank of diesel give or take 150 miles. There are other reasons to go with a diesel swap but these are my own. Recouping costs isn't something Id be interested in as I would be very content on the finished product. You just don't do these conversion to recoup any of the costs.

Awesome conversion. I’m going this route for a summer project. What is your actual fuel economy?

I'm one of those people that collect all the parts and items for the conversions, upgrades, mods, etc... then when ready I take a few days and put it all together. This gives me time to properly plan and source out the best parts.

More than likely a 4 inch lift and 31's. The transmission needs to be upgraded too an AX15. I also intend to convert to a 4wd using a late model XJ. Try to gain the best rear axle for hauling stuff and towing an eight foot trailer with furniture and what ever else. Will also use late model front end, convert to the late model dash, replace the fabric on the bench seat or see if I can upgrade to something better. I like a darker interior like black. For me this is just a truck. Not even weekend warrior. Not to say I won't ever be going Off-Road. Just not crawling or anything heavy. I want to maybe paint the truck blue. But another color like the ford super duty blue jean paint. I do want to have good quality parts. When the time comes I'm thinking about converting over to the Cummins R2.8 inline four. Yes I'm a diesel head. The engines around 8K. Comes with everything for the engine. https://www.cummins.com/engines/repower

Where to begin? This is my 1988 Comanche Olympic Edition. Has the straight six with what I think is the BA10. It is pretty ruff looking. The PO was a hard smoker. So the interior was pretty much layered in tobacco tar. I had to wipe it down with ammonia to remove it off the dash, steering wheel, doors, etc.. The truck is pretty much rust free. Ive not seen any cancer yet. There was a little rust on the passengers side floor. Easy fix and then painted it with Rust-oleum. The carpet was actually that vinyl floor padding. It wasn't to bad other than having crap all over it and rips, holes worn in it, etc. so in the trash it goes. I prefer using a bench seat. However this bench seat was nasty. It smelled and had stuff spelt on it with food and who knows what else. And yes it was covered in cigarette smoker and tar. I wasn't about to trash the seat. I need to use it until I can either reupholster it, source out another bench seat from a salvage yard ( dodge, chevy, ford, etc..). So I broke the seat down. I removed all the seat covers. The back of the seat was actually incased in a plastic bag. No rips or tears. That saved the back cushion. It looked new and did not smell. The lower cushion was another story. I placed the top and bottom seat covers in the washing machine set on sterilize. I did the same to the bottom cushion. Its still worn but I can fix that my glueing foam and poly batting. Not going to worry about covering the foam with plastic. Here are photos after being washed. I haven't put the bottom together yet. BTW the foam you see under the seats back is it resting on the foam bottom.

thanks everyone.... I went ahead and sold the XJ with the lift. Will be looking at other options.

Hi, Ive an 1988 MJ short bed. I also have an XJ that came with the MJ. The MJ has no lift but the XJ has a 6.5" lift with new steering, longer control arms, and everything up front to accommodate the lift. All new Bilstein shocks. T-case 1" drop. It seems to have a proper setup. The tires are dangerously bald with holes in the steel belt. the guy was going to use everything off the XJ and transfer it over to the MJ. So my question is how many of you that have a lift 6-6.5" are happy? I want to run 33's. Ive been looking at others photo's and I think I will be happy with 33's. Its pretty much all Ive ever ran and have been more than pleased. Do you think I will be happy with this lift? Yes hard one to answer but I see it as when someone asks you if you are happy with a certain snow tire. And if you think they would be happy using that same snow tire. I like Nokians. lol.... :)