Raven

Wish I could find an 07-01 clutch/brake pedal assembly but at this time it’s not in the cards. Salvages yards are picked clean as soon as new XJ’s come in. So I’m looking more into the 1997 and up TJ clutch/brakes pedal assembly modification. Maybe I’m not doing a proper search but I’d like to find a write up with photos if at all possible. Any Jeep guru’s know?

Supposedly the Ford T-18 is a direct bolt on for the OM616 and the OM617 with the 4speed bell housing/throwout bearing/ flywheel/ pressureplate/ with a new clutch disc.

UPdates?

We own a couple of restaurants so I can supplement with cooking oil converted to B100.

Unless I just happen to trip on a nice 2.0TDI for a price I can’t leave behind. 😁

So I bought a Mercedes’ OM617 N/A engine for fifty bucks. It’s pretty clean with about 120K. I’m in the process of breaking it down and mic’ing everything out. In the meantime a friend of the family had an 1979 240D with the OM616 and manual four speed. The PO is one of those guys that is very well off and owns only Mercedes’ diesels. The motor had already been professionally gone through as well as the entire drivetrain. It was 1 degree F outside the other day. Started up and ran great. He gave the car to one of my sons friends who didn’t have any transportation. That guy decided to sale it for 3500. I bought it for 700. That will be the engine going into my MJ. After I get the OM617 done I will swap it out. Then later an OM617 Turbodiesel.

Yes I could but I’d like the bolt on factory parts for this interior.

So maybe I can remove the big brake pedal and replace it with the smaller one used with manual transmission and add the clutch pedal?

So can I just remove that automatic transmission brake pedal and put back an MJ manual transmission setup? I’d like to keep the steering wheel. Being I’ve started the diesel conversion I’m no longer in need of the majority of the wiring harness. I don’t need the instrument cluster as I’m going with a modified one. Anything else I can make my own wiring harness with the 1998 fuse boxes and have extra fuses for systems i add. the big thing right now is getting it back to a clutch and brake pedal setup.

This is what I have now. Just in case a visual is needed.

I’m an oil burner… 😁 I did everything for the 97-2001 interior. I’m not using the AW4. I still have the 1998 OEM steering wheel with the brake pedal only. I’m now using a manual transmission. Need to little help on the best most cost effective way to convert the automatic stuff over to a manual.

I’m back on the Jeep project. Lots of changes over the past two years as COVID’s screwed up everything. I Picked up a couple axles. A Dana30 and Dana35. Both have superior axles, ARB air lockers, and other goodies. The Chrysler 8.25 will be pulled out now. Bummer as I did have the axle tubes cleaned up and new perches welded on to fit the MJ. I also bought a Diesel engine so it’s going diesel now.

Why are you replacing it? If it’s just dirty unbolt it, or cut it off, then soak it over night in hot soapy water and the next day wash it up by rocking the water back and forth past the honeycomb structure. Then just wash it out with the garden hose. It’s worth a try over paying a ton of money. Oh and what every you do don’t try those snake oil cat cleaners they sale. It’s a waste. A good tune up and fresh oil should help with emissions.

I will be using the factory 98 stock ecm

Ok.... I will look into the Ford injectors. What is the part number? Thanks everyone

I’ve been using this website to figure out which injectors work best with the engine I’m using. http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92236

This will become my daily driver. I will be using OBD2... yes on returnless fuel line. I just want to replace as much bolt on stuff that is better and more efficient than what was used from the factory. I’m not seeking power gains.

I thought it was just a simple swap?

1988 MJ 97+ conversion. I’m using the complete drivetrain, electronics with wiring harnesses. It a complete conversion using everything off an 1998 donor XJ. Five inch lift with 32’s for now. AW4 with np242.

I’ve no intentions of moding this motor for more power. This one is just to tune the motor for better efficiency. Just replace parts with better parts. Y’all know the drill. Car companies get vehicles made with the cheapest parts available at the time to save manufacturing costs.

I’m interested in a smoother running motor. Hoping for a couple more mpg with better atomization.

These are the ones I’ve chosen to use in the 1998 4.0. Thoughts?

Thanks guys 👌it’s the info I wanted to clarify.

Thought that might bring ppl into the thread.😂 97+ conversion. Is there a best year for using the Dakota fuel tank, sending unit, and fuel pump?

Cruiser54... it’s a new master cylinder. I properly bench bled it. I know new ones can go bad but I will know as soon as I have time to work on the MJ. ghet... thanks I will keep that mind. For now I have a second used block.