Raven

Limey... thanks 🙃 I'm going to look it up... I did go ahead and drop one of my old ones, just the bare block, into the ultrasonic cleaner. Then took that piston rod, or what ever it’s called, out of a clean late model XJ and installed it into the block. I’m going to set this aside for now.

Does anyone know what the part number is?

The block was frozen. At first I couldn't even open it but afterwards I was unable to push out the plunger or what ever its called. Anyway I cleaning it up and it seemed to work ok. Bled the front disc brakes fine and the rear drum brakes without an issue. Drove around like that with no issues until the other day. btw the master cylinder is brand new and was bench bled properly. I figured the brakes maybe needed to be bled again. This time there was zero brake fluid going to the front discs on either side. The rear brakes seemed to be fine but the fronts were dead. I think the distribution block needs to be replaced. I'm having problems finding now for an MJ. Only one so far is from Napa and they want 100 USD for it. Does anyone know where I can find a new one for a decent price?

I’ve a spare steering column out if another MJ I own. I’m going to break it down this week and modify it if I can. I will post pics on what I find and what mods I did.

1988 MJ originally had an automatic with the shifter on the steering column. Has been converted to a manual transmission by the PO. You can’t turn the key off all the way to pull it out. If the automatic shifter is placed into park the truck won’t start at times. Help

Dzimm... that’s a cool setup. I actually cut out the floor where the XJ hand brake is. I didn’t think it would fit by the shifters with the bench seat. I want to stay with a bench seat. I also want to stay with the parking foot brake on the floor in the factory position for the MJ. It’s not as practical as a hand brake for controlling decent or holding a hill.

For those that have done, are in the process of, or have plans on paper... I want to keep the original parking brake location. I am keeping my factory bench seat. Everything else is being converted at the moment. Please post pics of your setup. Thanks 😁

There are plastic sheaths on one connector. The other has the male pins. If they aren’t lined up one of the pins will bend over the sheath and not make contact. Or so is the method this one uses

It’s up and running now.... the cps was not making contact as the number two male child bent the pins and one or both weren’t making contact. It’s up and running.

We replaced the ECU with a known good unit and it still doesn’t start. I retested the new CPS and the ohms/voltage are dead on. Ran number one cylinder to TDC and the rotor bug points to cylinder one on the distributor cap. now going to test the MAP and TPS.

As you try to start it 98% of the time it won't fire up at all. It won't even act like its going to start. It just turns over and over again doing nothing. But the few times it tried to start the engine started and then rambled and popped and backfired through the throttle body. I checked the CPS again and it ohms out correctly and the voltage it proper. I eliminated C-101, one wire at a time and second checked all wires prior to solder and heat shrink. Still not starting up. I rechecked all the spark plug gaps, the new spark plug wires to be certain they are clicking down on the spark plug and the distributor cap. We still have spark. I checked all vacuum lines and other wiring and their connectors. The battery still reads 13.5 VDC. I have not ran number one cylinder up to TDC and checked the rotor bug. I wanted to try all this first. We are getting fuel but I don't know what the new fuel pump is putting out in pressure. This came from the factory as a 2.5L with an Automatic 2x4. The PO swapped it to a manual. I'm dreading pulling the dash and checking all wires and those running down the steering column.

Ok today I’ll look into the timing and other things mentioned.

1988 MJ 2.5 with manual. One day it just stopped running. So I troubleshoot it down to the fuel pump. Bought a new fuel pump and it ran. Everything was going well and then it wouldn’t start. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when ever I turn on the ignition. I have spark and fuel but it won’t start. I decided to do a tune up. It needed one anyway. Replaced spark plugs, rotor and cap, spark plug wires, the CPS. Even after all the cranking the battery still reads 13.7 vdc. I put new grounding straps in battery to body, body to engine, battery to engine. Still won’t start. when it does try to start it just pops and backfires through the throttle body.

I cut, ground, and shaped the 1998 XJ firewall to fit into my 1988 MJ. I then bolted it on to match and mark areas needing cutting. But here you can see the different between the location of the old steering hole and the one for the 1998. It was my understanding a firewall bearing flange was used to center and maintain proper alignment of the steering shafts so they wouldn’t bind. The photo above of the steering shaft cover that plugs into the 1998 steering hole fits perfectly. So here is the photo of my firewall and then the next is of the firewall bearing flange I was referring to. I thought it used one with three bolt holes rather than two.

This came off a 2000 XJ. It looks different but I think it may work. I’m unsure how this holds the steering shafts so they don’t bind.

This is what I’m looking at. As you can see this is the shaft that mates up to the steer column and then travels through the firewall and connects to the shaft that bolts to the steering box. It only has that rubber boot. I’ve no idea what happened to the part that rubber boot mates up to. I went to the salvage yard and the two XJ’s of the right year had them removed. Blahhhh! Time to call the stealership. That guy is always a fool when it comes to asking for part numbers. Ok just got off the phone with the stealership. He said the parts are no longer available. He has no photos of what the parts look like other than the metal shaft and it has nothing on it . I'm going to another city near by and see what they have on their junk yards

I think it’s number ten. I may end up going to a salvage yard and locating one. I’d rather buy a new part

I’ve started my 97+ dash upgrade. I am currently stuck because I misplaced a part or two for the steering shaft. It the firewall bearing plate that holds the steering shaft in place. The old one used two bolts to hold it. The one I’m looking for has three bolts that hold the plate to the firewall. The only parts I’ve found have the two bolt holes. I could use some help finding proper part number and manufacturers. Thanks

I wasn’t expecting this Wagoneer XJ to be an armored car.

I didn't see this anywhere on the forums. Thought it was pretty cool. Thought Id post it. https://bangshift.com/general-news/this-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-is-a-woodgrain-paneled-q-ship-and-not-the-go-fast-kind/

Ive seen what happens when people break a C clip axle on the highway. Not a pretty sight. Ill be using the OBD2.

Here is what I'm working with. 1988 MJ converting to 1998 engine, AW4 w/NP242 and Chrysler 8.25. I'm updating the whole truck dash and all to 1998. I figured going with an SOA in the rear like the XJ and using a bastard pack. Then a monkey wrench gets thrown into the mix to knock everything off course. 1990 MJ with an AX15/231 and D44. Has the OEM buckets and interior. Yes it was an Eliminator. Now it is just a parts rig that I can buy for 600. I was pretty happy going the route I was on until this popped up in the radar. My wife is not very pleased as I have three projects I am currently working on. So another parts truck in the garage isnt going to sit well. I prefer a standard transmission but was ok using the AW4 and then converting over later after the other projects are finished. I can still go SOA in the rear but think Id just have some leaf packs cut for a 4.5" lift and then a modified shackle. This is a weekend warrior work truck. Tows a 10' single axle trailer with no more than 1200 pounds which includes the weight of the trailer. Over all around a 4.5-5" lift with 32-33" tires. As of yet Ive not decided what gear ratios I want to use.

The guy I bought this MJ from really just threw it together. He did put the rear lower control arm adjustment. He just bolted it together. it didn’t show anything in the Haynes manual. And I thought I had taken the caster adj bracket with the sh8ms off my MJ. I finally decided to check. I never took them off. The skins are looked the same thickness. There are six onerous them. So I installed them on our sons MJ. Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help.

Stock running height with four cylinder. I pulled the front axle out. The po did a crap job at converting it over to 4WD. It now has the straight axle back in it. Now I’m stuck. I’ve done searches and only seem to find shimming for lifts. Can anyone let me know how many shims on the lower control arms are used to adjust the front so I can drive it safely for a complete alignment at a shop?

Sorry for the late update.... but I'm still working on it... life gets in the way at times. But here is what I have to date. MJ- The complete doors, fenders, and interior from the B pillar forward is pulled. The wiring harness is pulled. The cab is now an empty shell. 1998 XJ. Same thing here. And I will be using the 4.0, AW4 and 424 in the MJ. Thats where I am for now.