MuchRespect

Sorry, I'm new to the lexicon. I've got pretty good throttle, much better than with the clogged converter, though I guess that's to be expected. I don't have much of a baseline because as this is the only MJ Renix I've driven. I need to give it a lot of throttle in 1st to get it moving and when I do there's a lot of exhaust. Basically, looking for a converter rec that you guys know and trust before I just buy the first thing that fits my truck. I also don't know how much I should expect the performance to change once I do. Thanks in advance for any advice

Los Angeles

Figured I'd toss a cat/exhaust question out here rather than start a whole new thread: Had my clogged cat cut off a few weeks ago and replaced with a down-pipe. Catless, I'm running well with good power, but it is very fumey, so much so that my gal says she won't come camping until I clean up the smell. Can anyone recommend a quality high-performance cat that won't reduce my power too greatly?

Thanks Thanks, man. Definitely plan to get one of these as well to prevent tailgate theft. The handle lock is so that I can keep my bed contents secured with a rolling tonneau cover

Been searching for an aftermarket adapter to secure my tailgate release handle by key. Anyone know of a manufacturer (looking for a link or product number) that fits an MJ? Here's one made by Pop & Lock that does not apparently fit, but it's pretty much what I'm looking for. Open to other solutions, too

Thanks, guys! I found his old shop on Yelp but it didn't say where he moved to. I'll definitely check him out. Also, there seem to be a fair amount of LWBs in LA. Rad to see!

thanks

Thanks for the info! And the step-by-step, he definitely replaced the clutch master, not the brake master. Will try this method for bleeding this week. Checked the bushings and the carpet, all seems to be in order. Thanks again

Great box. Do you know the brand?

So to clarify, the clutch master was the one replaced. I checked the reservoir and it remains between the min and max lines. Pumped the clutch 30 times and let sit for 10. Didn't seem to mitigate the issue. Still sticky. I'm very new to the truck so not sure if I misunderstood the suggestion. Noob questions: Was I meant to bleed it first? Can I bleed it while it's in the truck or do I have to bench bleed? Thanks for all the help

Thanks guys! He replaced the clutch master cylinder. Is there another post with a step-by-step on how to do this? Again, thanks for your patience on my noobery.

Hi everyone, Just got my 90 Renix 4.0 4x4 back from the mechanic yesterday after putting in a new ECM, master cylinder, crank sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Was running and shifting great for about a day or so but this morning it began to give me issues placing in 1st and 2nd gear. I first noticed it going from neutral back into 1st when stopped and then it became more and more "sticky" shifting between 1st and 2nd. Eventually it became quite hard to push it into gear at all. When I finally parked, it wouldn't shift into reverse and began a light grind when I tried to force it. I restarted the motor which allowed me to force it into reverse. Any ideas of what this could indicate or how to fix? Appreciate the help

Thanks guys, fuel pressure checks out good. Getting into the tips early next week!

Thanks, guys. This is already super helpful. The fuel is a great point. Will look at the filter. Knucklehead97, In California, you need to pass a state smog test every two years in order to keep your vehicle registered. It passed smog recently so I'm technically okay for a couple of years. If I want it to pass smog when the time comes I'll need to put a new cat in. I may decide to do that before hand depending on how much exhaust I'm breathing in on a daily basis, haha. To answer your other question, yes, the MJ wouldn't start on its own before we tried the crank sensor. It would start with starter fluid and ran well. Then after the 60 miles, I lost the clutch cylinder and the starter didn't want to work at all. Once those were fixed, it was back to running, but not starting without the ether. That's when we tried the crank sensor. Worked great for about five starts and then back to the same issue. That's when we started firing the parts canon at it.

One last thing I'll add -- when my mechanic replaced the crank sensor (MOPAR tbd) it started up on it's own about 5 times before decided it didn't want to turn over without starter fluid. Not sure if that's valuable intel, but figured I'd toss it in.

Thanks so much for the reply, man! I've got to admit I've been bumming a touch, hoping I didn't make a poor choice with this particular MJ and your words have really lifted my spirits! My mechanic was the one to replace the crank sensor. I'll find out tomorrow whether it was a MOPAR. Thanks for the advice on vacuum lines and the general wisdom. Do you think it's the right move to re-weld the exhaust rather than springing for a replacement cat now? I've read mixed things on rolling without one. Lastly, still learning how to "drive" on this site. You mentioned a "Specialist forum" were you referring to the club in general or is there actually a forum dedicated for noobs asking questions? Haha! What can I say, I'm green af. Thanks again

Hi everyone, Recently bought a 1990 MJ 4x4 4.0 with 89k original miles, one owner. Been sitting for about 2+ years. Southern California truck. Ran great when I test drove it, just needed starter fluid to start up. Had it inspected before I bought it. Mechanic thought it could be a faulty sensor or possible ECM. So, seller knocked $500 off and I drove it home. After 60 miles, I made it home and it died in my driveway. Clutch cylinder went and the truck wouldn't start. Least I got it home. So, bringing you up to present: -replaced the master cylinder (runs again, needs starter fluid) -replaced the fuel pressure regulator -replaced the crank sensor -replaced the distributor module -replaced the ECM (this is what got it to start on it's own) In getting in there, I've found it needs a couple of extra things, namely an alternator (no big deal) and the catalytic converter is clogged. I'm having my mechanic tear the cat out and re-weld the exhaust as the smog is current. Down the line I may put a new cat in and try to get it to pass smog legally. If anyone wants to weigh in on anything I've just said or things I should look out for (nearby affected parts, preventative maintenance, etc.), please do. In the meantime, I'd really like to have an expert take a look at this and give it the "real" inspection it clearly needs. CAN ANYONE RECOMMEND A RELIABLE MECHANIC IN THE LOS ANGELES AREA with real knowledge and expertise in XJ/MJ's? I'm hoping to find a specialist. Not looking for a build-out guru, more someone who knows the engine/electrical side of things top to bottom, though if they do it all, that's of course fine, too. Thanks in advance and forgive any unintended noobness in this post.

do you know what kind of topper this was? here is what i had on mine, as far as i know its comanche specific to