MuchRespect

Had a new clutch slave cylinder installed in my AX15 and went ahead and replaced the clutch while they were at it. Now, it's got a very slight knock when I first fire it up and at low RPM it's got a intermittent knock coming from what sounds like could only be the transmission (behind and beneath cab, not from engine compartment). Drives great, just put 500 miles on a road trip, but sounds pretty rough. Any ideas on what could be causing it?

Any color will do

Where are you located?

Thanks, man! Also, I gotta ask, would you ever sell it?

Thanks, man!

Love this setup. Do you know the Wildernest model number? Did it need to be modified or is it a perfect fit?

Anyone have one of these all welded up that they are looking to sell? https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-MJ-R.html

Great tip, thank you!

Thanks for checking

Yes. I think the solenoid is part of the transducer (black) --

My EGR valve is intact and seems to be opening / closing. Problem is the electrical EGR transducer (the black plastic disc that the lines run through) was melted from high engine heat before I bought the truck. One of the ports on the transducer that once connected a hose to the valve has been melted clean off. Before replacing the whole system, I want to replace the transducer. Problem is, as far as I can tell you have to buy an entire new EGR valve system just to get the transducer, about $115. Does anyone know where I could buy a new transducer solo without having to buy the EGR valve to go along with it? Figured I'd toss it out there before I head to the junkyard.

Hey guys, performed tip #1 and it didn't fix the issue. Pinging is actually worse now, acute, loud, but only present when accelerating. When I lay off the throttle it dissipates. Feels like I have very limited power and it threatens to stall at idle. Thinking of giving a new MAP a shot.

A huge thank you for the comprehensive break down. I suppose I understood some of this in theory but only in bits and pieces. Been trying a stick for fifteen years and never had to bleed a clutch before. I appreciate your patience with my questions and willingness to break it down so thoroughly. Will try this tomorrow.

So I made an attempt at this today and didn't have a partner. I tried your solo hack using my club and found that when I opened the valve only a tiny bit of fluid/air came out. When took the club off and let the clutch out -- the fluid ran freely through the system air/fluid so I kind of assumed I had misunderstood your instructions and went along with it. I checked the reservoir and made sure it was stayed topped off. When no more air was coming out of the system, I closed the bleeder screw. Waited about thirty minutes and around the block and it was doing well if not better than before. Then on a second drive, the clutch sort of died on me. I lost almost entire pressure. I had to pump it at every stop light to even get it into gear. Barely made it home. Just about everyone I've spoken to and every tutorial I've read suggests that fluid should only flow when the clutch is depressed and not when it's left out. Is that correct? And if so, what does it mean if my system drains freely when the clutch is let out? Thanks again

Thanks! This makes me feel A LOT better.

Hi guys, been doing Cruiser54's Renix steps and I've found a couple of disconnected harness connector plugs. Can't find their female counterparts and I was hoping someone could tell me what components they belong to. First one is a blue plug that's part of a large harness cluster in the left side of my engine bay. Pictured below along with its junction in the loom covering. The second is a red plug that is visible through the front grille just in front of the lowest part of the radiator. Picture below: Thanks in advance and let me know if you need more info or photos.

Hey everyone, is there an updated Google spreadsheet for this?

I gotta say when I read the shopvac suggestion I thought you were pulling my leg, but founds some videos of it. Can't wait to try this!

Here's the one that came in my pack. Not an exact match to the GM ones you linked to, but same concept, right?

Thank you!

Thanks. I actually had one of these in my gasket pack and went with the copper because that's what the salesperson recommended. Here's another question for you -- if I change it out can I reuse the new oil I just put in or is that blasphemy. Feels silly losing $50 of brand new Mobil1 but figured I'd ask. Thanks again

Bought my first MJ a few weeks back. Had a small drip from the oil drain plug. Performed its first oil change yesterday. Old plug had definitely been over-tightened and the gasket was bent and impossible to remove from the de-installed plug. Purchased a new plug and copper gasket. Put the new oil in and it seemed like a good seal, but as soon as I began driving it, the drip returned. See photos below. W hat's the likelihood this simply a gasket issue? Or should I be concerned that the previously over-tightened plug could have damaged the plug threads or hole?

Thanks for the help, will do

Thanks for the help. Spark plugs and lines are secure and intact. Maybe it could be the MAP sensor? I'm certain it's never been replaced and there's a slight pinging between 1-3k RPM. Also, wondering if it's what could have caused my converter to fail in the first place.

Thanks for the explanation. I have a suspicion that might be what's going on. Any advice on how to diagnose and fix?