Lthompson741

Well, did the bleed process to the “t” and no joy. I can not get it to switch back out of emergency mode. I also put put a new bench bled master cylinder on it. It seems as tho the pressure has increased but no where near where it should be. Ive reviled the front caliper over and over again. I’ve stomped so hard on the brakes my legs are tired. So my next choice is what? Replace the valve? Is it worth it to replace it with a Cherokee one? If so what year is a direct replacement? thabks for all of your help.

I actually had the same thought last night. I’ll check after work. Yeah the light is on due to the emergency circuit, I verified it a couple days ago. I’ll hit it all again tonight and see if I can make some progress.

I guess I’ll try again, I never caught the part about moving the height sensing valve. My “brake” light is on, and has been on sense I first got it running. -Ive bleed all wheels In order -Bleed both rear wheels with a front bleeder cracked as well. -i have done it via the pumping method, and also with a suction bleeder. i can not get enough steady pressure via the pedal method to the back wheels. My my question is how do you reset the system, or bleed it when it is already in the brake failure mode. is it possible for the proportioning valve to be stuck in the emergency position? ive read every thread about bleeding this system and am nowhere closer to solving this. I will rebleed it this weekend hope for the best.

I’m thinking it’s the master cylinder. I can’t get enough pressure to get a proper bleed. I went to harbor freight today and got a suction bleeder and keep sucking quarts thru each wheel in order. It seems a little better driving it around but no where near safe. I just stripped off the blender in one of my wheel cylinders so I give up for the day. So I need to either find a new bleeder or a new wheel cylinder. I’m thinking I’m gonna order a master cylinder as well.

Yes, the load sensing valve is in place. The rod was broken when I got this thing, so currently it is wire tied up. I tried leaving the the front cracked several times, and get decent pressure there but it makes not difference that I hav seen yet to the back pressure.

Nice, the before and after are awesome. Looks like a decent project.

Well, new brake line arrived spent the night bleeding it again and no change. I posted a question about it in tech, but I’m starting to think the master cylinder is done. Irratic pressure to the rear, I’m fairly confident I got the air out as I’ve been thru almost a gallon on fluid now.

Sweet thank you

I know this has been beat to death but at my wits end. 88 4wd 4.0 I’ve got it with little to no brakes. The P.O. Replaced the rear line and the return. The “brake”light is on. It will stop, eventually, it feels like it needs to be bled. I am not getting air anymore, just straight clean fluid. It appears on only be drawing fluid for the rear out of the front smaller compartment of the master cylinder. I should mention I replaced the rubber line in the rear, and the hard lines on the axle due to there questionable rust/cracking. I bled almost a gallon thru all four wheels, in the proper order and can not get a decent pedal. My shoes are adjusted on the rear, I hear them dragging. I sometimes can get decent pressure to the rear, other times it just dribbled out. If you pump the pedal up you can get them to work but it is very inconsistent. Running it pretty much goes to the floor, but you can pump them up and get them to engage. Does this sound like my master cylinder is going out? Or am I missing something. I have looked into the proportioning valve being stuck, in emergency mode, but I can get enough pressure to recenter. It I unplug the wiring harness my “brake” light goes out. I'm sick of replaceming parts that aren’t needed and it’s another $50 bucks on a mj that cost me $500 and I’m starting to realize why it was parked. sorry for the long rambling post, just discouraged.

1988 SWB Pioneer Build date: unknown, sticker faded out. color: REd Location: Channahon, Illinois options: Factory tow hooks, roll bar, bed rails, engine and fuel skid plate. Had a trailer hitch, unsure if factory. state: Rusty project. Trying to get road worthy. Hopefully by spring 2019 on road then filling rust holes.

I didn’t even think about Napa... thanks Yeah if I can’t find one I’ll be glueing it.

Anyone found a decent replacement? Mine is shot. Figured I would ask before I glue it.

Looks good. I like the green. Nothing wrong with free Jeep parts.

Still waiting on my brake line going on 10 days now from amazon. So I’ve been Slowly cleaning it up. After a couple of coats of wax, it does look halfway decent. There is no clear coat on the hood or the roof, so it will be short lived, but it looks a lot better. After brakes I need to get the new tail pipe installed, new windshield and plates/insurance to be on the road.

$650 is one heck of a deal! Looks pretty clean as well. I would fix it and put more money into something else rather then rag on a Comanche. I’m sure you could easily double your money with a few trips to the junk yard. Anyway, I’m familiar with the gambler races, and It will be a blast for you in the Comanche if you go that route. Are you going to convert it to 4x4 or leave it 2wd?

Thank you! Yeah it’s growing on me the more I mess with it and I really want to get it on the road. I know about the addiction. I’ve got 4 jeeps right now, I had 6 at one point but am slowly selling them off and centering my interest on a couple instead of 4 or 5 huge project.s

Well cooling system is done. It now has a open cooling system. I found a overflow bottle for amazon for $10 that fit right next to the radiator. Just had to move the fuel pump relay/resistor. After messing with with the brakes I’ve narrowed it down to the brake line the runs over the rear axle has a leak and is sucking air. I can prove it a 100 percent, but the rest of the brake lines are new and all the fitting are tight. So we will see if amazon wouldn’t of shipped it via snail mail I would know by now. Not many pictures. Here’s a pic of me running it with the new cooling system/hover Jeep.

You right, I remember that now. The 5K is a lot smaller but gets the job done. I remember welding the plate onto a 2 inch receiver and calling it good.

Harbor Freight 5K is my go to as well. Doesn’t way a ton and decent pull. They also sell a mount, but I seem to remember my winch came with a mount in the box. (Accident? Someone trying to steal it? Someone return it and didn’t know it was in there IDK). So if you are buying one, open the box and check it there is one in there. Anyway, I’ve got a marking deep cycle battery that it’s mounted. I’ve used the winch on my daily, several of my Jeeps now, and mainly use it on the car trailer to drag dead cars up. For the money, it is a decent set-up.

Hmm, interesting, thank you for sharing. Something else to look for next time i’m In the junk yard. Gotta wander to the foreign section now.

Following, along here. I’ve got 5 or these rims that the clear coat is shot that I want to bring back on day. I’ve was thinking the other night about getting them blasted/powder coated.

Well it was out of the garage under its own power. New radiatior, cooling hoses, and heater core hoses. No difference in running, but it’s nice not to have a leaky radiator. I’m still waiting on the overflow bottle from amazon, and that project should be buttoned up. I actually put about 5 miles on it, on Saturday, with little to no brakes and it seemed to run well, and shift very smoothly. Next up is trying to figure out the brakes.

I get it now. It’s kind of pain compared to uploading via my IPhone or IPad. I guess I’ll just stick to the phone or the time being. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Yeah I under stand about the price doubling. My $500 MJ is almost 1K now and I just took it for it’s maden voyage this past weekend. Still needs brakes and a windshield to be driven far. That doesn’t even include the appearance (it’s a rot box). My daily a 2012 F250 bricked it’s self the other day during our “Polar Vortex” and not having another car in the household kind of sped up getting this thing running as a back up.

Ok, I'm sure its been asked, but searching turned up nothing. How the heck do you post pics in a thread from a Mac? Apple in their "Genious" has their own photo app so the photos are not saved in a tradition manner. I can add photos from my iphone as easy as can be but I can not figure out how to do it from my mac book. thanks