Mack4194

Can't figure out how to post pics. But there are 2 white stickers on the top of a ax15 I picked up. *TTN1790A0039* and *P52104388AA* Any help would be great guys, thanks once again.

Does anybody have any ideas how to make a Metric Ton MJ ride better without putting 2000 lbs in the bed? Any help/hints are appreciated

Follow up: I got ZJ steering from the junk yard and put it on yesterday. It's a lot bigger, I never had any problems with my stock steering, but like you said it was a good time to upgrade. Thanks for the advice, I was needing to clear my lift for my friends lol. They say thank you too!

Thank You

Is it possible to buy the little ball joint that connects the drag link to the passenger side knuckle? Thanks, Mack

Z280 check, any more good doners with louvers?

That's good advice you gave the kid.

Check both the TPS and IAC with junk yard ones which you can get for a dollar or two. Then look for vaccum leaks. Get a little can of propane and spray all around your intake exhaust manifold and your fuel injectors. Anywhere you think you can get a vaccum leak. This is how I usually find my vaccum leaks when they show up. With the engine idleing high if you spray accross a vaccum leak you will hear it the RPM's drop down

Thanks guys. I figured as much. I just didn't have any head gasket symptoms (other than two no go cil's), and the gasket looked good as new when I pulled it off so I thought valves for sure. Still you never know it could've been seeping around something, and the valves didn't look bad to the naked eye either. I hate the guessing game! I'll reply to this when I figure it out. Know anybody that want's a rebuilt YJ head lol?

I`ve got an 89 longbed 4wd. 4.0. Here's the deal... I had almost no compression in 2 and 5 was dead. I got a good deal on a head from an 88 that was completely refurbished but never installed so I snagged it up. Took my old head off on Sat morning, lower end seemed to be ok. I went out this afternoon to put the new head in. Compared them to each other and well... they're different. Got the numbers. My old head is a 2686 (I thought it was 2688 but aparently those don't exsist) My new head is a 3661. All the research I've done says mine came from an 88 YJ 4.2 CARBURETED!!! Here are all the head numbers I could find in no particular order New Head Numbers: 3661 F NH-1 88 C29 Exsisting Head Numbers: 2686 90 NH-2 E08 CN So my simple question to you fine folks is should I just try to sell this one and get what I need, is there a not so hard way to make it work, or does it provide me the possibility of some sort of upgrade? My initial thought is sell and buy again, but I thought it was worth an ask. Thanks for your knowledge and time, Mack

3 gallons of water out of the motor :)

Hey Guys. Here's my comanche crossing the river. I've improved my design since then, I hope you guys enjoy it. Mack

Darnit, computer didn't fix it. There goes 110 bucks. Checked all wires for connection/grounding. No problems there that I was able to find.

I'm going to replace the Computer. Hopefully that works :)

Sorry it's been a little while. Yes, checked with a noid light to determine no pulse. Fuel pressure was checked with a gauge to eliminate that possibility. CPS you say? I replaced it in January, but my truck did sit in the river for about 20 mins...... :( Think that could've broke it?

Sorry bout that, It's an 89 4.0 manual trans. I have spark. It will run after I spray propane in the intake to start it. But it doesn't run well when I give it much gas. I have to baby the throttle otherwise it bogs out.

I have no injector pulse while cranking. I have replaced my distributor which is under lifetime warranty. This did not solve my problem. My question to you experienced gentlemen is what makes the injectors pulse while cranking? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Guys Mack

While I've got you all checking this thread I thought I'd pose another question. My truck is lifted 8 inches with a snorkel. I've got 35 inch tires and a lock right in the rear. I like to go through water once in a while, hence I was water proofing my distributor. However when I was replacing the cps I noticed a huge gaping whole in the transmission where in goes in. Is there suppose to be a seal there that I am missing? Or are all of our transmissions like this?

Hey Guess, got it running again. It was the distributor. I tried cleaning my old one and putting it back in first but that didn't work. With a new one though it fired right up, and I'd like to add that it is running better than it's ever ran before. It used to be sluggish and would partially cut out at low throttle. Now it's running better than ever, almost sounds like a new engine. Not sure if it's the new distributor or the cps or both together but I'm not complaining. Thank you all so much for all your help. I hope I can return the favor sometime Mack

ok guys, will do... Man I wish I was independently wealthy!!!

K complete story, by the way thanks for all the interest :) K I'd spent the day waterproofing electrical components by un-clicking and cleaning everything and putting dielectric grease on them. It went fine, I felt good about it, and the truck drove fine for a few trips afterwards. Then, and here comes the embarrassing part, I took off the distributor cap and put a little silicone around them rim, then here comes the really embarrassing part, I put a little silicone inside where the vent is, then I put it on and put some around the top on the vent whole, then to top it all off I didn't wait to drive it. It imiediately began to missfire/run rough, after I completed the 1 or 2 mile drive I had to do I got back took off the cap and saw the silicone had gotten on the rotor and all 6 points, so I drove it to auto zone 3 miles-ish and got a new cap and rotor. Then I put it on right there in the parking lot and drove a few blocks to my brothers house. It ran a little better, but still not the best. When I got to my brothers house I checked all the cables, pulled the off looked up firing order just to make sure I hadn't goofed somehow, and put them back on again. It hasn't started since. I took the new cap and rotor back to auto zone and had the replaced. No effect obviously. So my first thought of course was distributor, but it didn't appear that it wasn't working because it's sparking and everything as normal. So there you have it, I hate to admit it but I goofed a little bit, I was overzealous and probably a little bit cocky :doh: Thanks for you help once again. Pederl I will check the balast resistor

Installed new CPS. No change. Took off cleaned and put back on ground strap. no change. Have already used in line spark tester. Sparking. Still no start. Completely Stumped and Frustrated.

Really? I am getting ready to cut through the floor. I'll try your way first.

I did not try putting a little gas down throttle body, spark plugs come out with fuel on them. I tried drying them and putting them back in. I checked for spark at plugs by pulling a couple out as my brother cranked it over. I will check the grounding strap. Bought a new CPS yesterday just in case that could make this happen, but man, I can barely get my finger on it let alone a wrench.

I have Spark, I have fuel. I made sure rotor is pointing to number one at proper time. Everything sounds normal it just won't start running. My father in law is a mechanic and we looked at it for about an hour testing everything. I didn't want to take to much of his time so I told him I would figure it out. But I'm stumped. Any ideas? I've checked every conection I can think of, cleaned them, and even put a little electric grease on them. I'm sparking and fuel pressure is good.