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Motorhead X

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Everything posted by Motorhead X

  1. Yep... Here's the Walker, it looks like it is free flowing and for around 45 bones. I would like (insert muffler shop here) to put a flex pipe in and I should probably replace the motor mounts too when I can. I get a nice little torque release "clunk" when I let off the gas at around 65 mph. I bet something is getting loosey goosey and I don't feel like replacing headers all that often. That four bolt connection at the tail end of the down pipe is a weld spot right? I have no experience welding.
  2. Congratulations!
  3. Alright then! Thanks fellas...It looks like we're on to something here. The front elbow should be the large diameter hole (black color) and the back elbow is the small hole (grey color).
  4. Hey Cruiser, thanks for that info. I am working specifically off of your previous post(s) that had the same recommendations. That is why I did the valve cover gasket first. Now, the top of the motor is dry. No oil is leaking above the oil pan/RMS area. After the first gusher, I dried as much of the motor off as I could, so I think we are covered on your list of items. Back to the ccv... I replaced the front hose that brings fresh air into the valve cover. I also just took off the hose and connections that go from the back of the valve cover to the intake. I confirmed the thin connector hose is totally clogged. So now I am looking for info on these two elbow connections. Here are the old elbows in the pic. The janky broken one with the large diameter hole was on the front previously and I replaced it with a Mopar elbow with a small hole. Should the back elbow really be the large diameter?
  5. I just finished a valve cover gasket job yesterday, it went fine. Then started her up to make sure it was ok and oil started pouring like Niagara Falls out of the rear main. Dang. It's not the valve cover either. The RMS has been leaking a little bit for a while. I was crossing my fingers that it was the valve cover dripping down. My neighbor just asked me if I changed the PCV on the valve cover when I did the gasket (I think it is called a CCV on the Jeep). In fact I did change the whole assembly connection to the air filter. He thought that maybe I created a positive pressure situation inside the crankcase which is pushing oil out the main seal. Could the return CCV tube to the intake be clogged and causing the major oil flood on my driveway?
  6. My horn is not working and I am hoping someone can make a solid identification of the relay. A lot of earlier posts are missing images due to Photobucket. Here is the one I think it is, the one on the right. I tried replacing it and didn't make any difference, but I need to make sure I have it correctly identified. This is on a '91 4.0 So far I have tested the horn by jumping it to the battery and it works fine. It does not seem to be getting power otherwise. I have also cleaned the round spring and cap under the steering wheel cover. The relay is not clicking when I press the horn. Fuse is good. May have to dig deeper in the steering column. Thanks.
  7. Thanks for that info 75sv1 and HOrnbrod. I may pick up a Walker pipe so the whole exhaust is fairly complete. :thumbsup:
  8. Hey, thanks for the replies everyone... Yesterday morning (before I read everyone's suggestions) I gave myself a late birthday present and purchased a Banks Revolver 51327 header. It's probably way more performance than this motor requires, as you have all noted, but what the heck, I already ordered it and it's CARB legal. I'll do the 4 port injectors too as soon as I can. Hopefully the header install will go well and looking forward to driving around without getting gassed. Does everyone's down pipe have this crease towards the front, just after the header connection? I can't tell if this is stock, or if the previous owner landed on a rock or something.
  9. Yeah... they are pretty much all the same design for C.A.R.B. compliant. If someone knows of any others, please let me know.
  10. I've been digging into my recently purchased '91 4.0 HO, working to get the recurring exhaust smell troubleshot. It was obvious immediately that the tailpipe and muffler were toast, but after getting them replaced, I was still getting fumes. I finally determined for sure the exhaust manifold is cracked by sticking a mirror and a flashlight in there for a detailed inspection this morning (After two mechanics and a muffler shop said it was fine). The truck has not been registered in California yet. It still has almost a year left on a Georgia plate registration. Here in CA we have C.A.R.B. which typically only allows the stock (more restricted) manifold design. I am all for clean air and smog sucks, but I don't understand how increasing the efficiency of a motor by improving the flow design on a header makes for significantly more exhaust particles. Maybe someone has an answer... More importantly, does anyone have any experience with getting an inspection in CA? I'm sure the stock design with the improved materials/welds will work fine, however I always install the best performing and highest quality parts I can find within reason. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on which header to use or if there is something I am missing... I've found about six or seven different designs so far on Amazon, Ebay, and the like, but only a few stock designs that are C.A.R.B certified... Also, will a redesigned, less restrictive header increase the chances of failing a smog? I'm guessing that it might fail a smog with the cracked header on it now. Thanks everyone... :cheers:
  11. Sounds like fun SublimeDom777. Nor Cal is really nice in the winter too when it's cold in PA.
  12. That was totally me. Windows down almost the whole journey. I'm really considering some black rims too!
  13. Like FrankTheDog and Minuit said... Best of the breed. Truck made it 2,300 miles in 60 hours with no problems. Averaged around 23mpg at 65mph. Spectacular country we live in. Getting to see that much of it in such a short time was a cool experience. bluenotenick
  14. Thanks for the help everyone. Here's a parting shot on my way out of town. Cool roof rack storage bag that my Dad gave me. Glad I don't have to pack everything in the cab.
  15. finally figured this out!
  16. http://imgur.com/WvMWa83
  17. https://imgur.com/WvMWa83
  18. http://imgur.com/pFVzoRl
  19. Made it to Georgia today and got my first good look at the truck.
  20. Congrats on the truck! I am picking my first one up this weekend in GA and will be driving it back to Los Angeles. If you ever want to meet up or need any help, just drop me a PM. Beers or whatever on me... Great looking truck too by the way. It's in great shape.
  21. RustyRodder... was just thinking the same thing yesterday. When I get to GA, I should be able to contact the guy that did the recent major work. Hopefully I can meet up with him and go through everything he did to the truck and do some of the regular maintenance it needs. I have met him many times over the years when I would visit the area and he is a straight shooter. Plus he likes to drink beer, so if I buy a few rounds, he might help out.
  22. These are great fellas. Much appreciated. :thumbsup:
  23. After reading lots of informative posts on this forum, I am getting my Jeep this week so I feel like I can make a first post. The Jeep is a '91 Comanche Pioneer 4.0, 2wd, auto. I live in California and the Comanche is at my father's place in Georgia, so I'll be flying there later this week to pick it up and drive it home. Road trip! My father was a Ford loyalist, but about six months ago his F-250 Super Duty turbo diesel bit the dust. He thought it would last forever, but the motor fried at 150K. It was the dreaded Powerstroke 6.0. Shortly after that, a neighborhood friend finished rebuilding the Comanche and sold it to my father. My father has since moved in with family and isn't currently driving. He said I can buy it for less than what he paid. I will update my signature with more details and post some pics after I get to Georgia and inspect it further. Compiling a list of things to bring with me on the journey. Please chime in on any suggestions. - spare CPS - 5ft. of spare electrical wire - my fairly compact tool set including sockets - multimeter Thank you to everyone, bluenotenick
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