Rymanrph

It's funny you mention the low pinion angle because I just ordered a new drive shaft and shims for the rear axle. My pinion is too low right now. Maybe that's it.

Recently I've had a rattle that is driving me crazy. I wouldn't really call it a vibration because you can't really feel it. At idle it's not present. It's not noticeable under throttle either. It only evident at speed off throttle. The only thing I can think of is a bad pulley or bearing but I don't know how to check for it. Is it possible that my belt is too tight? Around town it's just annoying but on the highway or interstate it's incredibly loud. I just want to make sure I'm not damaging anything and I want it to go away! Any diagnostic tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

You will love the MX-5. I really regret selling my 97, but at the time I didn't have room for it and an MJ. They are awesome cars. I already know I'll love it because I had an '07 last year and traded it. Not the most practical cars in the world, but neither is the Comanche.

It looks so much better with the bigger tires. Looks like you could use some wheel spacers though. The Bushwackers are pretty wide aren't they?

The only vehicle I've ever purchased new was a Ford built in the USA, but I tend to buy Chryslers, Dodges and Jeeps. However, since I usually buy used it doesn't really matter. I'm buying a used Miata this week but that's because Dodge doesn't make a small RWD car with a manual transmission. I'd rather say I drove a Dodge, but I don't feel guilty buying a used Mazda. I've owned eight Jeeps, but Jeep never got any of my money since I bought them all used.

Its not that you want to have a little fun; by all means have fun, but in a responsible manner. If you truly understood the motives behind everyone's comments, you would have thought less of them if they hadn't said anything. You yourself stated that it was irresponsible and we all agree. If you had come on here and said, "I know of a huge empty parking lot that I like to play around in" no one would have cared. Its the fact that you're willing to engage in reckless driving on the street in an uncontrolled environment that has everyone up in arms. Yes. Street racing is dangerous and illegal. Plenty of people have been killed in the process by driver's who would claim to have "total control" over their vehicles who could "handle" their own behind the wheel. Honestly, you have received some tame responses here. CC is a community and we're just looking out for you. Stay safe and keep that type of driving off of public streets.

Here is a picture of the stance with the new shackles installed. Not a huge difference.

I got the perches on this weekend and it leveled the truck out nicely. I think my vibes are a little worse, but I don't know if that's because the pinion angle changed or because my drive shaft is that much shorter now. I'll get some pictures this evening. I thought I'd make a list of all the parts that are still original to the truck just for fun. Hood Cowl Power Steering Box Drip Rails Interior Plastics (A pillars, rockers, one B pillar, rear cab piece) Brake Proportioning Valve Tail Light Bulb Sockets Some Brake Hard Lines Rear Leaf Springs (SOA now) Rear Bumper Mounts Cab Bed I think that's about it. With everything I've swapped out, I could probably just build another truck.

Yeah, I'm running a 2wd auto XJ shaft. I measured yesterday and its about 40.50" from u-joint centers. I have about 1.5" of splines showing on the output shaft at ride height. Looks like this might be a good replacement: swb,_4.0,____aw4,__________np231,___d44= 41.25"__d35= 42.35" Now I just need to find one.

I checked at lunch and my springs are definitely installed the correct way. I guess they are just worn out and really flat.

Thanks! I'm quite fond of it.

As I've stated before, my wheels are no longer centered in my fender flares in the rear as you can see in this picture: When I went back and looked at my mock up, the wheels were centered. These are the same springs just sitting on a different axle. How is that? Is it even possible to install the springs backward? :hmm:

My rear pinion seal was leaking like crazy after the gears, so I took it back to the shop. The yoke wasn't spaced correctly, so it was interfering. The shop quickly made a spacer and all should be well. I asked him to take a look at my pinion angle and he said it might actually be a little low at the moment, so I'm going to install the new shackles this weekend and hopes that they rotate the pinion up a bit more. I also was able to see the axle at full droop on their lift. At full droop, the drive shaft is just at the end of the splines. Until I get a longer shaft, this truck will only see pavement. With a little luck, I think I might be able to use a stock shaft from a long bed Comanche (if I can find one). Although, if I still have vibes after installing the shackles, I may not have a choice but to get the SYE and CV drive shaft which I'm trying to avoid since it will be over $500. I'm ready to move from the spending/wrenching phase to the driving/wheeling/enjoying phase.

My vote would be these three in this order: PYJ Inca Gold, PGJ Jeep Green Metallic, PBA Winter Chill.

I had my truck at the shop today getting the AC charged. The shop is at a busy intersection near uptown across from a community college, so there are a lot of people driving and walking by. The manager told me he had two Ferraris on his lot today and my Comanche got more attention than either of them. In fact, the last time it was there, people came off the street and asked who's truck it was. That made me feel pretty good and I just felt like sharing. :D

Funny, you mention; I just went ahead and ordered one from there. $40 shipped is a little more than I was hoping to spend, but I don't have to look any more and it is coming straight to my door. Thanks.

Unfortunately no. Thanks anyway.

Its for my '97 conversion, so it is a dial. This is not my picture, but you can see the dial for the temperature control. I don't need the knob, but I do need the switch that is behind the panel.

While working on replacing my evaporator core this weekend, the dial that holds the cable from the box broke. This is the rotary switch that controls the temperature (third knob on the far right closest to the passenger). I checked my local pull a part yesterday and their vehicles didn't have dashboards much less the switch I need. I need the whole switch, not just the knob.

I had four Wranglers before I bought my first Comanche. This one was my favorite and everyone says I shouldn't have sold it.

Here is what I started with: Here is the longer slip yoke installed: It gained me about 5/8". I'd like to have a little more coverage on the splines, but I took it up the street. I'm not convinced its completely cured, but it sure seemed much smoother. I also worked on my exhaust to keep it from rattling on the transmission cross member. I obviously got the dash and heating/ac system back together. I replaced a tie rod end on the drag link as well. I'm headed to the pull a part tomorrow to pick up a couple needed items, but I think I'll take my tape measure and see if I can find another longer slip yoke. I also picked up some Chevy drop shackles today to hopefully even out the rear and re-center the wheels in the flares. I didn't get time to install them, but today was still pretty productive.

You're right and that's why I had to swap in the first place. I found it in my spares box, so I just have to swap it over and see if its going to work. Since I had to remove the dash and heater box to replace the evaporator core, I wanted to see if I could figure out why my floor area (lower part of the cab) would get so hot while driving. I have insulation on the floor itself, so I couldn't figure out why it was getting so hot. I'm not sure if this is the only reason, but something I found while removing the heater box is that my opening in the firewall had a large gap where the '97 gasket didn't fill the original hole. I'm not sure why I didn't notice how large it was when I originally installed it. I still had my original heater box so I pull the gasket off of it. Its bigger but the holes for the evaporator core are in a different spot (the heater core holes are correct). So I decided to cut both gaskets up and make one. If I were doing the '97 swap again, I would probably take the time to swap this portion of the firewall as well. Its not perfect, but I hope it works better than what I had before. The heater box is back in and the dash is reconnected. Now I just have to plug everything up and make sure it all works.

If you're going with 35s, I think you'll probably need the 4wd leafs. I'm going to try a set of shackles to make up some difference for me. If you decide you want the the 2wd leafs anyway, let me know and I'll trade with you. You're not that far.

I have 2wd leafs but could really use the 4wd ones. They give a little more lift plus my leafs are pretty flat any way. I actually have a longer slip yoke somewhere. I swapped to the current one when I went from the ax-15 to the aw4. I just need to find it.

Here is what I'm battling with: The box is out and the dash is just laying loose. The new evaporator core come tomorrow, so hopefully I can get it all back in by myself.