Shandley

I was just about to write that! Thanks to all who answered!!

Say, does anyone know where this clip goes? It's right by the master cylinder. It's not very long at all. It has a yellow/black wire and a violet/white wire. It seems to be all apart of the harness going into the cab. Where it goes from there is beyond me but before I go crawling under there, perhaps someone here could shine some light onto this for me. See pics here:

Do you know what the timing should be at? Would it be zero if everything is ok?

Those two pieces have slots for a screwdriver to fit into and you can pry them apart that way. They are stubborn but look for the slots with a flashlight. Mine actually had screws. I've seen it all though.

Alrighty. I will give that a shot when I get home.

I agree... They are great bikes. Personally I ride a Honda Shadow but the Buell turns my head every time.

I assume you meant that it won't go past RUN. If it went past start, I would be very concerned. I did not read your other post yet but if you had electrical issues which caused smoke to rise form the steering column, I would suggest that the plastic parts of your ignition or even the contacts inside the ignition switch are melted. This would require a replacement of the ignition switch. If that isnt the issue, I would take apart the plastic casing around the steering column and make sure you are not pinching a wire.

Ok, good to know about the heated sensor. Now, I KNOW my Haynes manual is VERRRRY general. Can someone tell me what the readings (spec) are for the O2 sensor and how I can check it? How would I check the EGR valve. The Haynes manual, again, is very ill mentioned. The timing was never changed. It was a short block rebuild without balancing. Essentially, it was a ring replacement... which of course means bearings, head gasket, etc etc etc. It also says the timing is not changeable. I assume you are referring to the timing chain slipping. I have no idea what the timing is suppose to be on mine. On the sticker on the firewall, it says Not Adjustable. Here's a pic: I like photos.... :D

I did. I cannot believe how much more they are up here in Canada.

Is this the Idle Control Solenoid?

Thanks. They are so bloody expensive! I would hit up the wreckers here but they are expensive just the same! If I can test it, I am going to have to before spending a hundred :Canadaflag: on a sensor.

Hmm. Where is the IAC located on mine. Here is a photo of a top view of my throttle body.

I best start a new thread. My situation has changed quite a bit. I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche 2.5L RWD I rebuilt the engine because of major blow by. That fixed the problem. It was sitting around for a while but before you jump to fuel filter as my solution, I pumped all of the fuel out (it took hours to do) and I replaced the fuel filter again. Also I had the injector cleaned and tested. The trouble I am having now is a misfiring at idle and a hesitation when tapping on the gas. I will try to get a video of it... actually, I have one. It's hard to figure it but you can hear what it does during idle. BTW, it starts right up every time. How I checked the TPS: There are 3 wires. From the top down, they are A B C. A - Signal Voltage B - Ground C - Reference Voltage When I plugged my voltmeter leads into A & B and turned the key to ON, I got a voltage of 63mV. I pulled the throttle just off of the plunger it sits on and I got a voltage of 100mV. Just before wide open throttle, I get a voltage of 360mV. With the throttle wide open, I get a voltage of 14mV. I checked continuity between B and ground and it is quite good. When I checked the voltage between C & ground, I get a voltage of 4.972V I am wondering if anyone can tell me what this means. I have read up on this sensor and how to adjust but I get many mixed messages. 17%, 8%, 33%... If its less than THIS voltage then THIS is wrong... it's endless. Has anyone done this test with this engine, this year, and this sensor? O2 Sensor Now, when I went to check the oxygen sensor, in my Haynes manual it tells me to check the lead on the sensor to ground. My trouble is there are 3 leads coming off that sensor. I checked them all to ground and got infinite resistance. I started the truck and ran it for about 10 min. I checked again and 2 of the leads were infinite but the other one seemed to jump all over the place. This led me to believe that there was a voltage that was coming on and off over and over. I checked that but the meter I had would not show fast enough and didn't have a 'max' option to read the peak of any voltage. Any clues here? MAP Sensor Checked vacuum and it holds the correct voltages. Vacuum Hoses When I got to the hoses, a few were out of order but none of them were damaged or looking bad. Actually most looked brand new. I replaced a few that didn't look new and put all of them back to where they belong. I know a lot of you are wanting to throw me links to other places. Believe me when I say I have read them all. Every one of them. I have learned more about the Renix engine and the wiring than I have of anything else. While I really do appreciate the links, I would like to hear from someone who can really point me in the right direction and has has a 1990 2.5L (or relative). It seems the 1991 and later were all different. Many thanks and happy trucking!

Does this count for the 2.5L manual transmission as well?

The distributor is not adjustable on mine. My uncle who works at the dealer said that this is normal. He also said that sometimes the distributor sometimes has to be pulled and moved over a gear one way or the other. I will try that to eliminate the misfire. The vacuum hoses are good... I think. I will be going over it again on Monday. I tested the MAP sensor and it seems ok. Thanks for all of your help and I look forward to getting the solution with this forum.

I absolutely could use a dipstick! That would be fantastic! The tube I have is fine, just no dipstick. Thanks! PM me if you get a sec.

It's a RENIX. How did you know what the spec voltage is?

Oh really? I know mine is out of whack. Do you know how the TPS calibration is done?

Greetings to all. I am getting my hands on a DRB-II scanner for my Jeep tomorrow. Has anyone used one before? I hear it is easy to use but I wouldn't know where to start (yes yes.. hook it up to start, I know). I am getting it from a family member who works at a dealership. He says that he has all of the hardware and the cartridge for my Jeep. I do not get a manual with it so any advice for those who have used one would we greatly appreciated. I cannot seem to find anything online except for people tweaking their imports. I only get it for one full day but something tells me it will be the best day of my Jeep's life.

Please please please.... If you are going to take apart your engine, take tonnes of photos. Hell, even if you don't use them, you might want to reflect on what a pain in the @$$ / fun time it was to take apart the engine. I have used mine so many times just to troubleshoot from a remote location. "Ohhhh! THATS how that was connected" I know I know... I'm new here. Give me a chance. lol.

Ok, this is the beginning of a list of things I need. If you have one (or more) of these items, let me know! My Jeep is just coming together now and our wreckers want an arm and a leg during winter months. This list is ongoing. I have a 2.5L... Clip for the relay cover: I have the cover and one clip but I would like to replace the 2nd one. Valve cover with oil cap: For the 2.5L Air box lid: The lid to my air box is melted (don't ask how. lol). I could also use a couple of the metal clips that hold it on (as sorta shown in the picture)

Thanks WBBKrazy and mjeff87. What I was ultimately after was the distributor cap in relation to the engine block. I see that in mjeff87's but JUST covered up in WBBKrazy's pictures. Now that I see how clean it can be, I think I will be giving mine a once over and starting to dress her up.

Yep! She's a convertible but very much a California convertible. She leaks when it's wet. It was a kit that could be purchased. The seat belts are on bars behind the seat. The top was cut with a fine toothed jig. The kit was great with instructions. It came with caps on all of the holes cut. I'll be damned if I can remember the name of it tho. The truck use to be white. I have neons underneath and the front end is slammed to the ground. The back end looks low but its just the tires on it. I know I know, kinda defeats the purpose of a Jeep buuuut its 2WD so, why not. The muffler has been pulled and it sounds great with just a cat on. The Renix computer takes care of the change in back pressure. Digital cameras were not available when this was done but I do have some great pics of her in action. Oh, note to all. If you are going to put small tires on the back, change the gear ratio. I ended up blowing the rings on the motor by high rev, low speed during normal highway driving.

Does anyone have a spare dipstick they would like to sell? PM me! I swapped this and that around and made sure the distributor was in the right place according to the manual and tried to start 'er up and voila!! She started almost right away. It didn't run very smooth at all.... in fact here is a video. I let it run for about 10 min and shut it down just to make sure everything was put together. I didn't touch a thing. When I went to go start 'er, it took a bit of coaxing to get 'er goin. I had to give it a bit of gas and it still missed and pooped and farted but it ran.... just not as good as in the video.... which is hesitating. Any ideas?

Yes, I am sorry I didn't post what I have done to the engine. I actually replaced the piston rings after a major blow-by issue. That required me to remove pretty much everything on the engine to remove the cylinder head to remove the pistons. It was bare bones. I didn't take any photos before I started the work and no one I could get a hold of had anything close to a 2.5L that I could look at. Putting it back together was not easy. The truth is I removed the distributor before all of that rebuilding and.. OOPS... spun it. I got it to the point where it would run and then shortly after, I put the new rings in it. I pumped all of the fuel out of the tank before parking it for it's ring replacement. It took me about 3 years to get it to the point of sorta running. It was parked at a family member's house and it was a bit of a drive for me to get to it. Since I have started to take a good look at 'er, I've noticed a few unplugged sensors. I'm quite confident I got them all now. I guess we'll see. Whether they are working or not is another issue. Right now she has 135,000kms on the truck. That's about 75,000 miles for those not in the great white north. All of the vacuum hoses have been looked at and any suspect ones have been replaced. I have a scope. When I looked into the #1 cylinder, it was pretty black on top. I can only guess from the driving it when the fuel mixture wasn't right because of an unplugged sensor. New spark plugs (HGK) I am currently looking for a photo of someone's 1990 2.5L so I can see what angle (approx) their distributor cap sits at. I've seen endless drawings that either show the #1 contact at 6 o clock, and lots that show it in the 5 o clock position when facing the right side of the engine. I am also looking for a dipstick for the 2.5L. OR does anyone know if the 4.0L has the same one as the 2.5L?