Jaime

I found it at teamcherokee. Thank You I wonder why all of the parts stores kept giving me the wrong part.

My son came home and helped me post the pictures on my original post. I tryed rockauto nothing close.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to change my transmision mount on my 88 4.0 5 speed 4x4 but the mount from autozone napa carquest or o'rilleys don't match what is currently on my truck. I took some pictures of what I have. I also looked for a part number stamp but did not find one. Please help. On a side note can you tell me what differential I have. Thanks in advance **** **** **** **** **** **** ****

Thank You cruiser54 very easy and straight forward. I still have the oil leak so I guess it's going to be the rear main seal. I'm not looking foward to that. Thanks again.

Hello everyone I want to change the oil filter adaptor ring/gasket on my 88 4.0. Posible leak. But I can't find the torque spec for it. Also is this hard to do can't find anything on it in the fsm or repair manual. Thanks in advance

I don't know if this helps, but worth a try. Check to see if all of the bolts holding the e-brake assembly are installed and tight. It took me about a year to figure this out the hard way. With me it was very intermintant. Some times I would get in the truck and all of my running lights would be out, blown fuse. Other times it would be OK. Then one day I had all the lights on and set the e-brake and herd the fuse pop. I found that I was missing a bolt to the e-brake and when the light were on the e-brake would flex enough to touch the fuse block popping the fuse. The truck must have wrecked and the bolt pulled out and just not installed because the threads were stripped. Hope this helps. Jaime

Thank you for you help. I tried you suggestion and cleaned the IAC and the hole it goes into and that did the trick. Thanks again

Hello I have a problem that started a few days ago. When I start it in the morning it revs really high. I mean a lot higher than the normal rev up. And it won't rev down unless I turn it off two or three times then it settles down. It has also done this in the afternoon when I get ready to go home. I researched this and came up with IAC. What do you think? Also is there a way to test the IAC before I replace it. I tried finding the test in the FSM with no luck. Oh it is an 88 4.0 4x4 ba10. Thank You Jaime

Thank You very much. This is just what I am looking for.

Hello I am looking into installing an electric brake set up in my truck. It's a 88, 4.0. 4x4. I plan on renting a pop-up trailer from the base. I was told that I must have an electric brake controller and a seven round plug with flat blades. Then I was told it would be $100 to install plus parts because there is no hook up for it to just plug in. The trailer is only $40. Has anybody done this before if so which controller did you use, which harness and plug and where did you buy it. I'm sure I can do this myself just need some help. Thanks in advance.

No when I got the truck it was already there.

I forgot to put it down but I did replace the O2 sensor. I also replaced the catiletic converter not because of this problem just because the old one was trash. Needed to pass smog. The fan is original I think. I looked and found the three sensors. I'll give that a try. When I replace the one at the bottom I'll do a coolant change since it will all come out anyway.

I sorry mechanic told me that it does not hold the codes when the engine is turn off. My fingers work faster than my brain.

This problem started last year. When the tempeture outside is above 70 degrees that is when my problem starts. I start off in the morning traveling about 7 miles, street driving, 15 min or so. I stop for about 45 min then when I get back in, it starts to jerk almost like it's out of fuel at about 25 miles an hour. I get into third gear and the problem goes away. Then it started getting worse sometimes at higher speeds depending on the temp. Oh and it has no gages only idiot lights. Since it started I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, fuel pump regulator, replaced the o rings on the injectors, manifold gasket, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, tps, cps twice. A mechanic has put on his tester cleaned the egr system and the IAC I think it's called. He has told me that it does hold codes after its turned off so he has driven it with the tester hooked up, it acts up but still won't throw a code. He has replaced the distributor and the ECU thinking that might be the problem no luck. He did not charge me saying when he fixes it he will charge me for the diagnosis and the bad part only. But again no luck. He also cleaned the throttle body. When it runs it runs better than it ever has. It should with all the new parts in it I am about ready to take it out in the desert and set it on fire.

Will the thermistor run the fan for a few minutes after the enginge is turned off. Replace the fan sensor with what? Or do you mean replace it with another OE sensor. Thanks

Hello Can anybody show me how to make my electric fan come on while I'm driving if the tempeture in the engine bay gets over a certain temp and have it run for about 3-5 min after the engine is turned off. I belive that my truck suffers frome heat soak. I have changed everything or cleaned everything from the fuel pump to the ECU. I also plan on installing some vents in the hood but want to try the fan first. I have an 88 long bed 4.0 5 speed with no AC. Thanks in advance.

:D

Well I changed the wheel bearings but it was an adventure. I am writing this in hope if somebody else sees what I saw they won't make the same mistake I did. Remember that this is my first 4 wheel drive vehicle. I ordered the parts from O'reillys. The sales person said you need two outer bearings two inner bearings plus races 4 seals plus an inner seal. When I looked at the FSM that is what it showed looking at the picture. The two inner bearings did not look right but I took the parts anyways. I took the hub off the spindle using the socked on the head of the three bolts and hitting it with a hammer, quite easy actually just time consuming. I then proceed to take the hub apart. The first thing I see is that the two inner bearings are wrong but I continue and manage to take it apart after some hammering cussing and plain old desperation. I then try to take the outer bearing off but it breaks apart leaving only the inner metal part that is seized on to the hub. Great now I need a machine shop. So I go back to O'reillys to exchange the wrong bearing. This time I get a more experienced person. He says the computer shows a complete hub assembly. What you're kidding I say. He keeps quiet but I know he wants to laugh because I would too. So he says that there is one in town at another store but will have to order the other one unless the truck coming into town is bringing another one. I tell him to go ahead and order the one and I'll pick up the one in town. After picking up the hub I go home to install it. I then go through FSM but I don't see where it says to just replace the complete hub. Now I see that the spindle nut has to be torqued to 175 ft lbs but my torque wrench only goes to 70f lb. So off I go to Harbor Freight and get one that goes to 300 ft lbs. On the way back I get a call from O'reillys, the part is in. I get the part and install them. To remove the other side and install the new one only took about 40 min but I spent all day doing everything else. I hope you can learn from my inexperience. But it's all good now. I wanted to add some smilies but could not make them work. Thanks Jaime

Thank You for all the info. I will make sure to pay close attention to the U joints. Thanks Jaime

Thank You for the info. Is there any brand I should use. I plan on getting them from O'Rielys.

Hello I plan on changing my front wheel bearings on my 88 long bed 4.0 with 4 wheel drive. Looking at the FMS it looks straight forward. What I need to know is if I need any special tools or a press to accomplish this. Thanks

I've been looking for that page for a while. I had seen it before but could not find it. I am not able to borrow an ECU. I might be able to buy a used one from a junk yard and hope it works. What do you mean heatsoak problem and which part do you think is getting affected by it. Thanks

I changed the O2 sensor and engine smooth out until I turned it off and let it sit for a while. Then it began to do the same thing. I retested the MAP sensor right after a 10 mile trip. With the ignition on and engine not running it read 4.5 volts. I then turn on the engine and the volts dropped to 1.45 fluctuated to 1.5. I kept the meter on for about 3 minutes but it just kept going up and down 1.45v - 1.5v. The FMS says with hot idle condition it should be between 0.5 - 1.5 volts. The engine seem to stumble a bit and that's when I see the fluctuation in the volts. Thanks again

The MAP tested at 4.9 key on power going in. 4.4 key on power going out. The book says 4.5 to 5.0 do you think I should replace it or is it OK. 1.4 truck started power going out. I am still going to replace the O2 sensor tonight. Thanks!

No I don't have a meter so I'll change it tomorrow after work. I can't tell you exactly my gas mileage since I have BFG 31's on the truck and have not changed the gear on the transmission. Just lazy I guess. My best guess is about 16 to 18 MPG.