Jaime

Hello, Well this weekend I replaced the ground cables with a thicker gauge cables. I probed the system and could not find any change in voltage as I probed. I went ahead and replaced the blower motor. None of this made any difference. It still saps power when the heater is on. I did attempt to replace the resistor on the inside of the cab but was unable to. Autozone gave me one with a metal guard that would not let it sit right in the slot. So I will have to take it back and see if maybe NAPA has the correct one. Now on the connector to the resistor it looks like it is a little melted. I also think that maybe Eagle was right and I need to replace the alternator. But I had it tested twice and was told that it test good under load. What do you guys think?

So if I need to replace the motor I can do it thru the engine bay. That works for me. I have added the extra ground to the battery but I have not upgraded to a heavier gauge cable. Do you have a part number and store I can purchase them or what gauge wire should I look for.

Yes it does. When fan speed is on high the volts drop more than when its on low.

Thank you for the response. I forgot to mention that about a month ago I got a new battery from Auto Zone. The sales person went out with his meter/tool and tested the charging system. He said the only thing wrong was the battery. I think that I will take it in again and have it tested. If it tests good then I will have the alternator bench tested. If it is the alternator is it worth it to get a higher out put alternator or just keep with the stock one? Also if it ends up being the blower motor how hard is it to remove, will I need to remove the dash, and how?

Hello, Hope everybody had a happy new year. I have a problem with my heater sapping power from my other systems. I seem to remember this being brought up before but I can’t find it. When I turn on the heater my volt meter goes from almost 14 volts to almost the first line after the 9 volt line. Then if my lights and heater are on and I turn on the wipers, they move very slowly. If I turn on my blinkers, then they blink very slowly. I can also see the needle jump when the blinkers are on. I also have a pair of Hella 500's on the truck. When I turn them on (thinking they would sap more power than the heater) the rest of the system works fine. I have done cruiser's tips 1-5, then 27, and recently #28. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! 88, 4x4, open cooling system, upgraded head lights.

Last year I was having the same problem with my 88, only at about 35-45 mph. It ended being the ICM. I got one from the junk yard simply because I had no way of testing it and the cost was high without knowing if the old one was bad. I got it for about 3 bucks and is still working.

It does at any pump. Every once in awhile it won't spill. But the next time at it will, even using the same pump.

Hello, 4.0, BA10, 18 gallon tank. When I fill up the tank and the pump automatically shuts off some fuel always spills out of the nozzle. Not a lot but enough to reach the floor. I have had the tank out a couple of times and made sure that all the hoses were not crimped. This has happened ever since I've owned the truck. Does anybody else have this problem and have you been able to fix it and how? Thank you.

It seems like it may have been the manifold bolts. All of the top bolts were loose but not the bottom. Looks like I have another thing to add to the preventive maintenance list. Thanks for the great advice.

I don't think I mentioned it but I have manual transmission. I back probed the three wire connector, got my base number, then adjusted it to 17 percent. I did not use the four wire connector.

I will be tighthing the bolts tomorrow on my day off. I did spray some parts cleaner last night with no change with the RPM's. Cruiser I'm not sure what you are asking but I am testing the sensor closes to the air box. The one you can actually adjust.

Last night I installed a new IAC with the same results. Anybody have any suggestions.

Back when I was having trouble with my truck shutting off, I adjusted the TPS and the RPMs went up to about 1000 while idling. When the engine is cold it the RPMs are about 750 but when the engine comes up to running temp they climb up to 1000 to 1100. I have done Cruiser's tips 1-5 and 27. I just put a new TPS and cleaned the IAC Any other suggestions.

I did this up grade over the weekend and WOW what an improvement. My stock lights are so much better that I don't think I need stronger lights. I almost think I might be blinding other drivers.

I had a similar problem a few months ago. After going thru Cruiser's tips with no luck he suggested that it might be the ICM. Unfortunately their is no way to test it unless you have the special tester. So I went to the junk yard and got one for about 5 bucks. As a new one was expensive and I didn't know for sure if that was the problem. Hope this helps.

Hello I want to do this upgrade, but when I went to order the PUTCO harness the clerk behind the counter said that I would have to change the lightbulb as it was not a direct replacement. I thought that I would still be able to use my old lights? Can you let me know the part # to get the one so that I can still use my old lights. Thanks

Do you know the part number of the Thrush muffler? I need to replace mine and the Thrush sounds like the one for me.

Thank You! That's the info I was looking for. Do you have any input on the muffler?

Hello, Now that it seems like my problems with my truck shutting off are solved, I need to tackle some other problems. First is the fuel pump. It is leaking were the wires come out of the assembly. Is there any sealant I can use to stop the leak or is this an item I can buy. When I changed the pump a few years ago, the complete assembly was not available. So I modified the old one to use the Bosh pump. Second is the muffler. It split when the truck was backfiring. I know that there was a recent post on mufflers, but what I am looking for is fuel economy and the best torque (not so much the sound it produces). What do you recommend? I remember Eagle saying that our trucks need a certain amount of back pressure. If there is a muffler that gives me the best of both worlds that would be great. Thank You.

Hello everyone, Well it looks like I finally fixed the problem I was having with my truck. Last weekend I went to the junk yard and picked up a MAP sensor, ICM, and some other odds and ends for twenty bucks. The MAP sensor did nothing but the ICM seems to have been the culprit all along. I've been driving it all week and it didn't shut off once. I want to thank everyone for all the input all of you gave me. Not only did I get the problem fixed but I also did some upgrades I had been meaning to do. Thanks again.

Wouldn't you know it, the darn thing won't shut off. I monitored it three different times with the fuel pressure gauge on it and it won't shut off. I'm going to do it once more and if it does not shut off I'll remove the gauge and check it again.

I discovered some new symptoms this past weekend that hopefully will point me in the right direction. The truck is getting harder to start. I have to crank it 3 times before it starts. It also shuts off at about 8 and 1/2 minutes after I start it and the truck it just idling. The temp gauge is just before the 210 mark. It starts back up fine and I let it idle for 15 minutes with no issues. Any thoughts? It turned out that the regulator was good. The new regulator gave me the same reading, so I checked into it a bit more and found that the vacuum hose going to the regulator was plugged. A bunch of black gunk plugging it up. After I replaced the hose and I got normal readings. I pulled the ECU and pushed, pulled, and wiggled all the wires and it did not turn off. Please let me know if you have any suggestion I can try. Thanks

I swapped the relays around and still got the same results. So I removed the connectors that they sit in and found a lot of the white packing gunk and some corrosion on some of the wires. I removed each wire from the connector soaked it in baking soda and water. Cleaned it with electrical cleaner sanded the terminals and still got the same results. After doing that I put a fuel pressure gauge on the outlet and got a result of 40 psi with the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator and 40 psi with the vacuum hose removed. The FSM says it should be 31 psi connected and 39 with it removed but it does not say what to replace it is not within specs. Do you think I should replace the regulator or is it pointing to the fuel pump? Now I did replace the pump about 3 years ago but I had to use the Bosh pump as nobody around had the original style pump. Metrictonner I will give the ECU a try and see what happens. Thanks again guys for all the help you are giving me.

Well I replaced the Ignition Switch this weekend and it still shut off on me. I shut off and the it turned back on without me having to cycle the key. It just turned off for about a second or two then it came back on. Any other thoughts on the matter.

I'm at the hospital with the wife using my phone but I seem to remember it saying that I would have to lower the steering column and then use the clamp. Anyway I think that I'll try and replace it this weekend if the wife is out of the hospital.