90 work truck

Yes, I saved the old one as a spare the sleeve from new one is Gates(sold by Napa) #061025

Yes

An update. . made it two blocks and it (chirping) started up again Drove it to Napa got a new belt (premium one $42. !!) I've been bit more than once chincing Must of contaminated old one with coolant when I changed water pump (spraying lubricant on Idler pulley bolt, while troubleshooting, probably didn't help) Long story short Quiet as a lady of the night in church.

Thanks jtrux got all the parts from Dirk at dpg off road (Old Man emu front coils, spacers, shocks, JKS track bar, upper & lower control arms, sway bar disconnects) Rear leaf pack is sold by Rusty's Canadian MFg. It's advertised as 4'" getting closer to 3 tires are grabber at2 215 around 27" next time I need tires (these only have approx. 10,000 miles on them) Might go a little larger 30"ish just for a little more clearance (snow, don't go off road much) want to keep my turbines don"t want to re--gear Back on topic I think I might of taken care of the chirping, ( I hope for good) put a little dawn dishwashing soap in spray bottle with hot water (thanks to posts read here) sprayed down belt then carefully held 3m abrasive pad on running belt, repeated 2 more times. Quiet now, time will tell

This is the old one New ones on the truck but doesn't have a large enough flat area to accept the larger washer that surrounds the reducing bushing

Thanks I had read that too, I took a 3m abrasive pad and cleaned off the belt(no cracks, LOOKS in good condition) I don't mind buying a belt Just trying to avoid throwing more parts at it Hence the wondering about the bolt being threaded, and if theres suppose to be a washer between pulley and bracket because it also quiets down when I spray lubricant there?

I've been having cooling system issues lately, the last thing to go was the water pump(leaking from weep hole), before replacing it everything was quiet, Did some looking and and thought it was the idler pulley was where it was coming from, replaced it with one from NAPA (gates # 38042) I've adjusted the belt from fairly loose to snare drum tight, and everywhere in between. The old pulley/bearing had a dust cover/washer looking piece(approx. 1.75" Diam) around the bushing the new gates didn't, gates came with the pulley with bearing installed and the reducer. The curvature of the convex side of pulley won't allow use of the old one. I can get it to quiet down for a few seconds by spraying a penetrating lube.where bolt goes into bracket & bolt head, it will also quiet down by spraying water on belt, till it dries starts right up again. Does anyone know if there is to be a washer between pulley and mounting bracket that I might of lost? Also it seems odd to me that the bolt is threaded its whole length and not just where it goes into bracket. Hoping someone has a solution before I pull the cord on the cannon and go buy a belt

I wouldn't change my factory bench, in decent shape, I figure if I ever needed to I can re-foam, got 2 hunting buddies (dogs) and they fit just fine

The stock ones worked for me Hope this helped

Fwiw 3 years ago when I was looking for an mj the closest "decent" one was in Madison, Wi bout a hundred miles from me, everything closer was Rusted out. Had a lot more miles,(184,000) 1990 4.0 auto 4 X 4 (Did need to put in new floor pans) Otherwise was pretty clean. I wasn't aware of this site then or its classified section. I think I paid a fair price ($2500) I know I didn't steal it and I was tired of looking (probably have put another $5000 into it, lift kit, tires Deferred maintenance, bed liner didn't NEED most of what I did, kinda like when you buy a house something's you just do to make it your own. And don't expect to recoup those costs, (no plans on selling her though) Hope this helps

So 1.5 more ohms made a noticeable difference?

Thanks Much Eagle, AGAIN GREAT EXPLANATION thanks for the picks!

Thanks Eagle, GREAT explanation, so correct me if I'm wrong the tube that goes to overflow from my Mac's Pressure bottle needs to go down to the bottom/lower part of the overflow bottle? Can't see the fluid jumping up to the inlet near top of overflow? That "slight suction" wouldn't be enough to bridge a 4-5" gap? Also command sense tells me the top of overflow bottle should be close in height of the Mac's bottle? Was thinking I'd have room for it under the Mac's(in front of blower motor) Experience with aquariums says that an accident waiting to happen, with all the fluid above it siphoning down into my blower motor! I would need to move a lot of vacuum lines relays etch to mount it over by the airbox on the driver side inner fender. Did some Google searches and looks like guys are making these from everything from High energy drink cans to spent whiskey bottles. Does your overflow bottle have 2 inlets or a hose inside the bottle?

I used this very happy with it they make two different types use the harder of the 2 aromatic vs aliphatic I used the softer one on a Dakota I Had And it faded and flaked in a few places. Did the Interior floors, bed & ladder rack in a dark grey and body lighter & flares black only 2 years old but holding up great(on "old Paint" my MJ Hope this helps http://www.grizzlygrip.com/Catalog.aspx

Did some more searching here, might of answered my own questions(your previous posts did) looks like a 2.5 overflow bottle is in my future, as well as a radiator. I like to try to know why/how things work, and I am under some misconceptions about the cap. And doing it the way I have been filing it (the mac bottle) 1/2 way at cold , I might be allowing air to enter system when sitting as the inlet to the tank is above the coolant level (when 1/2 full) Would of thought between the pressure of the system ad that being the incoming fluid it would of been good, anyhow worse that I can see is adding a quart or so of coolant to the system. I'd rather not have to run a hose all the way over to airbox if I don't have to, I've relocated my vacuumed canister under the pressure bottle bracket and have a little room between the Macs bottle and the fender wall, going to look into there first. Where have other people done for over flow bottle that went with the aftermarket tanks? Thanks, Mark

I misspoke. Had a senior moment correct the plastic bottle did not have a hose that went to ground, I put that smaller diameter hose on the Macs cause I thought that's what was done on other/older vehicles I've had. Seeing how that small nipple is right below the cap and above the seat for the cap, fluid would only flow to that hose when pressure exceeds 16 psi (overheating) right? How would the Mac's pressure bottle draw coolant from bottle if spring has rubber seal pushed down to seat? Where are other users with aftermarket putting the bottle? I've been using mine like the plastic one(filling it 1/2 way when cold) I've never seen anything draining from it though I have made sure that the bottom hose on the Macs is the suction and the side hose (Under the smaller hose) is the inlet so with the cap off and running I can watch fluid coming into tank,

New guy to Comanche's (2 years) and only have the experience of the one lift, recently had Installed Old Man Emu front coils & spacers, JKS upper & lower control arms , adjustable track bar, quicker disconnects , bump stops , bushings etc. went with a spring manufacture from Canada, distributed by Rusty's Old Man Emu shocks. Dirk at DPG off road worked with me on putting it all together. Very Happy with it should be close to what your thinking in price not including labor or tires of course

Hose I'm referring to is the smaller diam.. Hose right under cap I assumed if pressure is to high (pressure relief hose?) that is a short section that runs down near oil filter

Eagle, dumb question why would I need a coolant recovery bottle With the Macs pressure bottle when the cheapo plastic one just had an overflow hose to ground?

I bought my Truck 2 years ago, not knowing what/how the po handled maintenance did a lot of maintenance right away changed filters, fluids etc. Then this winter noticed the truck was running cooler than normal bought a laser thermometer(truck has idiot lts) and haven't been able to find a gauge cluster locally) Put a Macs pressure bottle in last year when the plastic one developed a crack and the cap had issues, then this winter in trying to solve my under heating issues Put in a 195 degree Mopar stat & deleted the Vacuum actuated heater control valve. All of that with the help of the folks here have got "Old Paint" a lot closer to Normal, now I'll get on to my question: Don't know if it was because of now I have a system under pressure or it was just time, now the radiator has a small leak, I've read all the topics I could search for here & Google and it seems like the Mod of choice is to convert from a closed to open system. I'm thinking that I already have an "Open" system as the Macs Bottle has the missing radiator cap, when I did the deleting of the HCV I used Copper plumbing Ts with sleeves for the larger heater hose, not a pumber (Hot On Left, cold on right and Crap flows downhill) but no leaks. So the only advantage I can see by "Upgrading" to a 92+ radiator with a cap, would be getting rid of the Ts, then I could use the Macs as an overflow bottle, guess I'd have to depressurize that cap so it would function as an over flow, or just use one of the other inlets(with larger diameter hose as the over flow.. Looks like an OE plastic and metal(whats n there now) is less expensive and I'm just wondering if I'm missing something? The Mac's Bottle is sitting where the oe plastic one was. This is my DD and work truck, the most "wheeling" It'll see is an occasional logging road, or crossing a cow pasture to get me closer to a deer stand so its not going to get hammered on trails. I would like your opinions, Thanks much, Mark

Thanks

Mopar 195 is in all is good, will keep an eye on it Thanks much

I was under the impression after market gauges might be more accurate? Any thoughts on having a few threads proud of the block on sender being normal? Seems tight and don't want to snap it off, don't leak, don't know if having the actual 1/8-3/16 up would affect idiot light

Cruiser took your advice, took it out on the interstate for 1/2 hour, I do most of my driving in town rarely get it over 40 mph, helped some, got back in town (Racine,WI) pretty flat here, but found a hill as I went up the hill w/laser. Thermo pointed at heat vent would climb to 120s then when I got level or went down hill would go back to 110-115. Popped hood and was getting 185-190 ish on the outside of the Macs pressure bottle.. Above tells me I had air, I was concerned about torturing the idiot light sender, but got it ok( I didn't notice before I unscrewed it, but tightening it back up I have a gap of 3-5 threads between shoulder of sender and the block is that normal?) its not leaking and I don't want to snap it.. Bleeding the air helped a lot, but I still wasn't running hot enough to open stat, put some backing over 2/3 of the radiator (40 degree ambient temp today) That helped a lot as well. I was getting 196 w/thermometer. At the thermostat housing 125-130 at heater vent. (These are all Idling in my driveway) Then I had a thought.. .. . If blocking 2/3 of radiator helped what about the hood being open DUH closed the hood and watched the cab heat vent climb to 144 and stay, popped the hood and took temp at thermostat housing 210 degrees. 205 at Pressure bottle. Going to keep an eye on with Laser thermometer, any recommendation on accurate after market gauges? My local advance auto has a 3 gauge cluster for $33.00 but I don't want junk, and not interested in doing the XJ swap.

Will do,Thanks