NC Tom

You're probably right. Figured I ask. Not starting would make sense.

I meant that I have spark. I do not have a vacuum gauge. Honestly, I have thought all along that I botched the vacuum system somewhere, but my vac system has been a mess/modified by PO's since I got the truck. I've checked everything I know to check, but certainly could have mis-routed a hose. Without a quality diagram, I'll never know. By "quality", I mean not the common black and white one from the FSM. I have that, but I need more detail.

The logical side of my brain thinks this should never be the case. But, I know it is. Question. There are two hoses that come from the fuel pump. If I accidentally switched those during reinstall, what would happen? I haven't check, just thought about it while typing.

Thanks, Jeff. I have a plug tester so that's all good. The plugs are new, however, I decided to recheck the gap and it's ok. The first 4 plugs were pretty carbon fouled, but not wet, if that means anything. I was surprised because they are new with less than an hours runtime. Distro OK.

I was thinking about putting the original cps back. Can the cps cause rough running? I thought it was only for starting.

Oh, good. I'll check distro, however, I didn't mess with it before all this started.

MAP is good. My EGR was disabled by the PO. I have not enabled it, so I really haven't had one for the 4 years I've owned it.

Agree with @Big_Mark Two tone is nice.

I replaced all the injectors with refurbed set I bought a while back. When I run the unplug test, all of them have an affect on the idle. Not drastic like the original set, but you can hear it. Overall, it seems to idle really well. I got the squealing almost gone as well. However, you just can't give it gas. It runs like complete crap when doing so. Fuel pressure is at 30 at idle, bumps up to 35 when throttle is applied. Even if the pressure is below spec, it's the best it's ever been, to my knowledge. So, what components/adjustments cause sputtering and popping when, and only when, acceleration is applied? Audio file included. You can tell when I adjust the throttle and hold it for a sec. I took this audio before I messed with the belt. Pulled Throttle at 3 sec. Held it until 11 sec. and then revved a little more. MJ pop pop.m4a

Yeah. One if the lnjectors was leaking. Swapping is a good idea. I'll try it.

It's holding pressure, but it's lower than spec at around 30. The CPS is NAPA. Supposed to be a good one. I guess not as my OEM one read better voltage. I may put it back on. I cleaned the injectors with a long soak in carb cleaner. Added voltage to open them and forced cleaner through. I have new ones too.

It ran okay until I screwed with it. Is it possible that the CPS that I replaced just isn't up to the task? Or the new fuel pump and sending unit? I hate to think that all new parts for these trucks are worse than the original equipment. I actually didn't change the injectors, just cleaned the stock ones. I have a new set that I could try.

Just checked and they are good. Here's 30 secs of terrible squealing for your listening pleasure. I am about ready to throw in the towel and get this thing towed. Six weeks and hundreds of dollars later, I still can't drive it. I've heard rumors of a guy in my hood that is/was a mechanic in the military. Maybe I'll seek him out. squeal.m4a

Okay folks. I was able to get the AC compressor remounted and the serpentine belt no longer touches the water pump housing. Starts right up, idles REALLY rough until warm. Mellows out some, but not running correctly. Engine rocks side-to-side quite a bit. Give her some gas and the idle gets pretty bad, seems to backfire. Let off the throttle and it settles down. I also experienced one helluva squeak-squeal/scream for a moment, but that settled down too. I was hoping that fixing the AC mount and re-tightening the serpentine belt would get rid of the squeal. Oh well. . . I unplugged and re-plugged the injectors with this result. Starting from the front, the first three injectors made little difference when unplugged. The next three made a very noticeable, near stalling, difference. Check the audio file: rough idle.m4a I start revving at about 12 sec. You here a "pop" at 18 sec. When the "pop" sounds, a decent amount of smoke is forced up into your face from below the engine. That's where I am today.

Fantastic! Thank you!

Is the size and thread pitch known so that I can just find some locally?

Today I noticed that the reason my AC compressor has been wobbling and my serpentine best has been rubbing on my water pump is because two mounting bolts are gone. I cannot find a source that notes the size. Does anyone here have that info? Much appreciated.

Someone told me I could use a colored smoke bomb.

I think you are right about the exhaust leak. I can't find it. For the injectors, I am assuming that you mean to unplug one, listen for changes, plug it back and move to the next one?

@Pete M@cruiser54@ratrapp@AZJeff and any others I left out, Thank You for your help on this issue. It is yet to be fully resolved, but hearing her start after so many weeks of just turning over and over and over is good news! Running really rough. Fuel pressure is reading a steady 30. I know that's low. However, the fuel leaks are gone. Please take a look at the video here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nZjWdUyDUKwCIIibEkfcTge5PbhHD_Yj/view?usp=share_link Anyone should be able to view it. Hopefully, some sort of diagnosis can be made from the sounds, but I understand if not. You may notice smoke coming up from the passenger side of the engine. Not sure what the source is. Looking forward to your comments.

Thanks. I'll check that.

Maybe after I wake up.

Okay. I can't believe that dang part is $100!

It only leaks if you disconnect the vacuum line. For this issue, should there be gas in the vacuum line?