AMC86Kid

i wonder if maybe somehow i didn't excite the alternator correctly

whats the proper amount a gaping for the plugs ?

Oh the temperature matters too on the plugs , I did not know that I’m running around 170 right now

Ok I did some more tests and here is what I believe I'm testing between the negative terminal on the battery and the positive post on the alt at idle speed I get .5 and when a gas up to around 2000-3000 rpm I get 1.5 volts so I think my alt is bad and the guy that tested it didn’t know how to test it correctly

Well I hooked it up and still can’t get any power off of it

Yeah I checked my spark plugs but I’m not sure what the proper gaping should be my plugs are dry but all look like they have been powered coated black and yes I do need to get a tach and figure out how to hook it up

No it’s just to test it out I gotta take it all apart and redo the brackets and motor mounts anyways

Right on I feel like mine runs a little rich

Well I got it tested and it passed I think I didn’t spin it fast enough to engage the stator I soldered on female connectors slide them over the pins and hot glued it so it won’t short out Is this a dummy light ?

Got it

i ordered the new one will do as you recommend upon installation thanks

I think this is the correct new seal

Well this is disappointing I rebuilt the transmission and the T-case filled it up with fluid and then a few days later noticed this leak Any suggestions on how to fix it ?

Well I tried to wire it up started the engine and got no power out of the Alt i wonder if it’s bad gonna have to go get it bench tested

Good idea Eagle I gotta try to make my own 2 prong connector for it

That’s the alt that came with the 3.4 and no I never got the plug with it

does anyone use a Pressure Regulator with there carb ?

The CS130 alternators use a four-connection plug; however, for the purposes of a changeover into a vintage car, you will only be using two of the four connections. The connector will be marked “PLFS” or “PLIS.” Depending on the system, you will only be using the “S” and “L” or the “S” and “I” terminals. “P” is the phase connection for externally powered accessories, such as a tachometer or hour meter, and can be used as an option. “L” is the alternator indicator lamp circuit and in some systems will be the ignition connection. “F” is an external field monitor connection. “S” is the main power distribution connector. The “I” connection (when present) is for ignition and connects to the ignition switch (keyed on/off switch). If you have the PLFS connector, it may be necessary to adapt the “L” connection. On a charging system with an “ALT” bulb, you can connect the ignition switch wire directly to the “L” terminal. If the system does not have an “ALT” bulb, it is necessary to install a 50 ohm diode in the wire leading to the “L” terminal. You can purchase a diode and solder it inline or you can purchase a jumper harness with the diode already in it (Delco 8078 or GM # 12102921). This harness has the 10SI connection on one end and the CS130 connection on the other. If your alternator has the PLIS connection, the ignition wire goes directly to the “I” terminal without the need for extra resistance. This 10SI to CS130 jumper connector is also available from Delco (8077) or Painless Wiring (30707). Many installers have used a short jumper wire from the “BAT” post on the back of the alternator to the “S” terminal; however, the proper way to make this connection when making your own harness is to go from “BAT” to the main fuse box, relay or power feed and then back out to the “S” terminal. This extra step will ensure proper external voltage sense readings.

S is the big pin that sends out 12 volts and the L is your exciter pin that activates the alt to kick on now where am i gonna get a dummy light from ?

Notice how the Plug is labeled (P-L-F-S)

so its a CS130 Alt the red wire goes to Plus of Batt the white wire is the exciter and its internally regulated

I also don't have the connector that plugs into it guess i could just solder wires to the prongs I'm also wondering if i can find and use the 2.8's old rectifier on this alt to be able to convert the power

Is you mj drivable? No its not got to bleed the air out of the brakes I'm using this Alt :

2.8's Generator https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1797710&cc=1181393&jsn=385 3.4's Alternator https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3468171&cc=1251931&jsn=537