Green Mesa XJ

I’m, not sure why fuel would be on the key unless it was dropped in gas. You’ve got some kind of mutt there. 2.8 v6 had mechanical fuel pump, if you’re hearing a pump come on it means somebody monkeyed with the Jeep adding it. Plenty of reasons to do so, like putting a newer 2.8 to 3.4 v6 engine in without mechanical fuel pump mounting , to just adding electric pump to bypass and replace the mechanical pump. No reason any fuel would be anywhere near the steering column unless somebody ran a fuel hose there. If you’ve got the 2.5 4 cy it’s different and could have an electric fuel pump. I’d do the basics, check the oil level, check where and how the fuel is getting to the engine, and check the basic wiring see where the wires go getting to the starter and check fuses and relays. Stuff like this, just keep it simple and check the basics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If I remember right the Xj and MJ of this era had the gm style couplers some were rubber rag joint that could fail like this, later coupler were stronger less prone to failure. At least in the early xj the style used there is different from the 91 era despite essentially the same steering column and steering gears. I don’t think it’s as bad as the gm design but there is a difference between the early amc and later Chrysler 91-94-95 style. It could be renix is the same as the later Chrysler I had trouble with the 91-92 steering gears, rebuilt all the steering components to find it still was sloppy, swapped two rebuilt steering gears. On a whim I swapped a later(98-99) low mileage steering gear in and it was a huge difference. Found out later those steering gears we bought from the parts stores had issues with being worn out to start with and just being refreshed with new seals, Now the amc steering gears seemed better built than the 1991s, the old amc xj beat up and taken around the world never had bad steering with 300k miles. I was always frustrated the 91s steering was so sloppy. Now if the steering shaft is ok then look at the drag link, stabilizer and other connections if one breaks or was installed wrong it screws it all up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’ve tuned those carbs it’s easy to get wrong. I followed the instructions exactly and got it to run smooth and not too rich. Looking back most of the time we adjusted the new carbs Holley and Webber it was unnecessary where we live basically at sea level. My old 2.8 xj had the high altitude set up and the carb needed to be set up differently out in the mountains and high desert. Living again at sea level I left the new Weber at factory settings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The the HO (91-94-95) Cherokee there are two temp sensors/senders one for the pcm and one the the dash gauge. Renix I’m not sure. On the 2.8 v6 all that was required was remove the idiot light temp sensor and install the temp gauge sender. To me it sounds like you’ve got the wrong temp sender. Or air in the cooling system line Eagle said Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah the 1986 XJ did come with 3.73, even though it’s not listed at places like Hollander as an option. MJ I’m just not sure, I think I’ve seen them in the junk yards but it was decades ago. Xj I am certain of because I bought axels off the 84-86 models with 3.73 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Car-part is based off Hollander parts catalog, there will be odd ball stuff that will not fit any existing category, if the inventory guy is on his feet then they’ll list it close as possible and list it in the description. If they are on their toes they’ll list any 3.73 they find with the correct number 434-01564G, 434-01433D (front axel Dana 30) , 435-01421E (Dana 35 rear), if the inventory guy isn’t on his game it’ll be listed as whatever they think it looks like with a check ratio. 1984-85 xj Hollander does list 3.73, the fact they don’t list it for 1986 XJ & MJ means it was so odd ball AMC or Chrysler (depending when Hollander got information from Jeep ) never listed it as a option. I know I’ve got 3.73 axels off 1986 XJ, I’m sure I’ve seen MJ with it but wouldn’t swear to it. I tried years ago to get a build sheet for my old XJ, I was told records didn’t go back that far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yep eagles correct. Sorry. I didn’t click the link to see the switch, I read the link seemed like it was going to say PS155 which is like the original gm pressure sender. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ps155 is the correct style, one spade connector. The 2.8 harness should have a wire for it. What’s going on with your dash? Is the harness messed up? Just the cluster? you should just need to swap the sensor into the oil filter housing and connect it. The feed going to the instrument cluster shouldn’t need anything else. Look at the wiring diagram from last week trace where the lines comes in to the plug and tap a feed from there. The fuse box already has a fuse for instruments. If working the rest of the cluster should work. The best way to make to work reliably have the original engine and dash harness be in good order then drop a good 88-90 cluster in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry that the wrong photo but correct style, it’ll look like with one spade terminal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is what the sensor should like, or a bigger gm style Just remove the idiot light switch from the side of the oil filter housing then thread this in, one wire sender , there should be a wire already there. I have no clue why you have to wire it all by hand, the wiring diagram I uploaded last week should break down what went to those connectors. Personally I’d cut bait on the factory gauges if it’s this jacked up. Buy a gauge kit to find out what the motor is doing, keep the Speedometer. I’m going to swap in a ax15 and np231 just to get accurate speed with bigger tires. The 207 uses a reverse cut GM style speedometer gear which is impossible to find now. Plus there’s a ton more support for the 231 over the 207, 207 never failed me and has a monster chain the 231 only gets as HD a upgrade. Anyway on this if you can’t make it work easily, do something different. Not worth the effort you have to put in to craft it by hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

As I understand it the 89-90 have eliminated a problematic plug, 87-88 should be the same. However the bulk head at the fire wall where it connects to your dash harness should be the same 86-90 so you could use 89-90 harness. Of course 86 is 2.8v6 not 4.0, not sure what changes were in the renix 2.5. I used a 1986 2.8 engine harness with a 1988 dash harness, that’s how I came across the differences in the bulk head to dash: on the 84-85 xj It is a older Jeep design bulkhead plug, 86-90 is renix era, 91-94 is the Chrysler HO era , 95 might be the same as 94 in most respects, 96 is different , 97-01 is obd ii era Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Best swap for that Jeep is the 3.4, if your clever enough you can run off the 3.4 intake and injection with the harness . Otherwise it’s a simple swap to bolt on all the 2.8 accessories and drop it back in the Jeep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You’re not going to get any kind of gas mileage and the engine is gutless. It’s under powered with the factory 205 r 15, If it is a factory 5 speed should have 3.73 ratio axels, I ran 30x9.5x15 tires for a lot of years, it wasn’t bad but the Jeep has no power at the best of times so it took longer to reach hwy speed and on steep hills on the road it struggled. It’s a carbureted engine with poor exhaust and bad carburetor. I put a Webber carb on the first few years it was a big improvement over factory, I imagine the Edelbrock intake and decent exhaust would help. Off road it’s not bad, depending what you’re running. On trails you don’t need a lot of hp. I had a blast with that old 2.8 xj, but it is what it is. 4.0 is a legend, 2.8 is under powered. I do have a lift and 31s on the old xj now, but I’m also stalled in swapping out the 2.8 with a rebuilt 2.8 putting in a ax15 and 231 in place of the ax5 with 207, it also has a Ford 8.8 because it was impossible to locate a decent Dana 35 3.73 ratio axel. (Broke 4 or 5 Dana 35s until I got sick of that axel) I wouldn’t say not to do it, but I wouldn’t have any expectation beyond enjoying a trail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Look up a Chrysler fifth ave horn relay around 1987, it’s the same relay Jeep uses, or very similar I grabbed one of those relays when I was trying to fix the horn in my xj, the problem actually was the button in steering wheel The fifth ave wiring and circuit should be easier to find than the Jeep , it even looks like somebody sell a replacement relay connector sold, autozone Duralast Sunroof Relay Connector 220. Looks like 2 should go to the switch following the Circuit diagram for Chrysler, while not owned by Chrysler yet in 84-86 models amc sourced from common suppliers other manufactures used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I looked at the 89 cluster a little different but the way it’s routed it’s probably a ground. I can’t find a good breakdown of the c1 plug in the cluster. The cluster plug is the same 1984-90, one of my books ought to have it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Find a cheap cluster out of a 1988-90 and throw that in, as long as your engine and dash harness are still factory/intact not cut up it will work. It’s harder to find 84-early87 style like that one is and I never could find a good one when I search years ago . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here is the 1986 electrical book, I’d have to look at the circuit but I think it’s a common ground most of the light and gauges share. But what’s in the book is not explicitly clear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Never mind looking at the ax15 in the garage it appears the one in the photo is ax15, wouldn’t be a bad idea to swap it to external slave cylinder. The throw out bearing retainers can be cheap on eBay, that’s where I got mine . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is the OP sure it is a AX15? AX5 looks similar, if the previous owner was halfassing the build lord knows what he grabbed I thought somebody would have run into this problem before and there would be a solution. the few who had this issue either built a custom bearing or swapped the crank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Explains some of the trouble with gauges. I’ve had trouble with the 84-86 printed circuits going bad. Peeling apart and degrading. There were no replacements available for the printed circuits in the early 2000s i was able to get a spare printed circuit for the 87 or 88- 90 full instrument, Jeep was clearing it out for $12. I thought maybe it’d be close enough to work on the 86 cluster, it’s not. Eventually we bought 89-90 clusters to replace it and never had trouble with their printed circuits. Honestly that’s what I’d do here. As long as the dash harness is intact it’s plug and play. All of those gauges should come back to life accurately. My first car I wired a cluster like this, original cluster didn’t have a factory tach and I wanted one, took a cluster out of another same era model and it didn’t plug in so I wired it directly, was not a good solution, worked for a bit then got lest dependable if I hit a bump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What the hell? Where is the printed circuit? I’d have to dig out the electrical manual. it’s probably going to be a common ground, maybe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I want to say on of the vacuum line from the carb runs to the distributor . I’m not going to have time to look at my set up until the weekend , but it’s probably mark in the carb instructions Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

None interference . You should be able to get it close to what it is at the moment just marking where it is at now . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looks correct from what I can see. You’re close to getting it timed now, might just get that nailed down before trying to swap in a new distributor. I’m not sure how much you’d have to redo to get back to where you are now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It might be possible to convert it. But you’ll never find the wiring from the module to the ignition coil . Best bet is to buy new with the model and wiring to the coil Or buy used Edit: Gm only used this style (module to coil wiring) like 1984-6, the older wiring and newer wiring are available but not this wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro