Green Mesa XJ

Fuse box under the dash has something for instrument cluster. It should be marked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I believe he replaced the thermostat and has the cooling fixed. This would have been simpler to do a one to one swap with all the sensors. I'm not even sure that intake is off a RWD 2.8. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I forgot about fuses, there could be a fuse blown for the cluster. The 1988 book has better trouble shooting instruction and it should be pretty much the same. This from the 1986 electrical book This is from the 1988 Comanche electrical book The C307 they talk about is the wire going to the sensor. I think disconnect it for one reading then ground it for another. Remember that wire could be bad too. Sits damn close to the exhaust. If you can't read them from the pics I could email them to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um, it's not going to play nice with another none oem gauge in that cluster. Slow down a little on tearing the cluster apart. Working full instrument clusters like that form 1986 are kind of rare. Look at the printed circuit on the back of the cluster, you should be able trace where the prongs that make contact go, one line will definitely go back to the main plug, you might be able to tell what color wire is feeding the signal. At least this is how I troubleshot the fuel gauge before. Though Didn't take it apart to trace it but you know for sure where it connects at. Also check the printed circuit is good I have several of these clusters 84 to 86- early 87 with bad printed circuits peeling away from itself. The printed circuits were non longer stocked by jeep in 2000, local dealer had a really cool guy who was a life long jeep parts dept who was awesome about looking $#!& up. I'll get my 1986 jeep electrical trouble shooting guide, it should have a way to test it but it'll be later tonight before I can get to it. I do have those temperature gauges in my old clusters, I can send you one if you really need it. Usually it the sensor or wire connecting to the sensor that fails. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Might grab a automotive stethoscope. Easier to listen to the accessories as they are turning. Don't forget the distributor can be a source too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There should be a grounding strap to the firewall. They usually rot out long before now, can cause some trouble but I wouldn't necessarily think that why the gauge isn't working. Plenty of choices for replacements. If the sender is in the cylinder head it should share the ground. Maybe the wire is bad, but seemed to send a signal when it was hooked up wrong.Or the sensor is bad /wrong. Not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

BTW if that sensor you bought is a alternative for 213-80 it should thread into that spot on the cylinder head. A guy with a firebird had the same trouble finding that sensor said it was replaced by gm 8993146, used in a lot of gm motors 78-late 80's. You might also look up 78 Camaro 5.0 temperature sensors for some other possibilities. Unfortunately I don't see threading size listed online. If all else fails maybe try a beck arnley 158-0536, it's a new style two prong sensor with plug pigtail. So should just need to wire up the hot side of it since it's already grounded. It'll be a kluge fix but... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not sure what you mean. If you have a sensor for the gauge package, you should just need to hook that one red wire to it. They are dead simple, just oddball part # because the 2.8 is oddball for jeep and Chevy before the changes in 1987. The early coolant sensor for the cluster 2.8 and 4.0 (2.5??? Not sure) are in the drivers side of the cylinder head, one wire connection with the engine acting as ground. Later 4.0 XJ (1996 up) move to one sensor in the thermostats housing with the OBD II computer feeding data for the gauges. I think you are close to getting it working, if the parts numbers I gave are worth anything, which I'm not 100% they are. I know the aftermarket parts especially for small parts have been off for that jeep for the 20 years I've had it. This fiero group has a chart that should work for testing the sender outside the engine http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=641.0 far as creating a temp switch combination for the electric fan I'm not sure all the steps for that. It's going to be a separate wiring job because the 2.8 harness will not have a plug and play solution since it was a mechanical fan. The s10 forums will probably have the answer. But the correct sender in the intake like you've been doing will probably be the key for that. Probably a kit for it someplace. Edit : here is one solution for the electric fan, he used a generic kit Hayden 3647 http://www.s10forum.com/forum/#/topics/495062 Edit: seems Hayden's quality has slipped jegs kit 10560 is probably a better choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Usuly a grounding issue. These jeeps seem to ground back to the cluster for some reason. Our 91 has short in the same socket, turn signal indicator only lights up on when the running lights /headlights are on. Tried new bulbs, problem persisted. Kept cleaning it out and screwing with the contacts about gave up but it's working now. Found old a junk headlight harness to steal a socket from next time it happens. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That is the place. These cylinder heads i am using heads are 85-95 2.8 to 3.4 heads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sounds like an idiot light temperature range. Dunno. I've had trouble sourcing the correct sender so my guess of 213-80 is only a guess as I haven't installed the new motor yet. If oreilly has a temp sender with gauge in their book for the 86 I guess give it a try Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Maybe ts76 standard or 1T1008 airtex/wells with the spade terminal. Hard to tell from the picture Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Btw somebody else may know a better part # this is the best I've found after years of searching. Or maybe a you pullit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Same one in my picture of the engine i am rebuilding. eBay search or Amazon . The one in the 2.8 in the jeep I never had clear access to it. 213-80 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok I did wright down which one worked for the 2.8 , but I can't find my note book I've been marking down what parts i use. Looking at my order history.... It looks like 213-80 gm Lost of firebird guys say this fit their v8s so it on the right track Or it could be the G1852 Some say it's for 70s v8 and vortex cylinder heads. I'm almost certain it's 213-80 gm, it looks just like the part in the engine in my garage. But I can't guarantee it just be fairly sure. Shop around on price and maybe a local shop will have something on the shelf. Took me years to find that sender, all of the catalogues I hit were wrong, even got the 4.0 sensor you posted earlier on my shelf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No it will not even screw into the cylinder head, that's for a 2.5 or 4.0 jeep motor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'll try to look it up, it was a common gm sensor but it's not in the catalogues now. I just bought one a few years ago for my 30 rebuild which hadn't moved past rebuilding the engine in the garage stage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is where you sender should be but it's not, since it's a rebuild head with something threaded in to keep it from leaking . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looks like you've got a slug threaded in the place where the sender should go. If you have the 2.8 still it's the right hand front of it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

86 temp sender on cylinder head, With wiring going to it Very hard to see it just follow the red wire Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

red wire goes to the temp sender . In my crowded picture it's just one wire going to that sender. I'm surprised it sending anything Edit it looks like the picture attached to the cylinder head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It's that red wire with flat look spade connector. I see it in your photo, next to the bluish green wire. Not sure what that plugs in the picture in to, probably the two prong temperature thingy. This is how mine looks Mine harness is 1986 federal emission (no computer). The beauty of the 3.4 swap beside you can swap it all and it's plug and play is if you ran the Camaro injection with ecu spliced in the old XJ harness would connect to the senders like oil, temperature and alternator like before and work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Located on the cylinder head? Then it might be possible, probably need the corresponding plug then work out if you can wire it in. The old jeep system is dead simple all of the gauges go to the gauges and not a ecu. Unless you've got some early ecu . I. Now the 2.5 in 1886 were renix, California emission should be the only worry with the 2.8. Alternatively find and swap back the 2.8 sensor. All of them should match up to the wiring harness. If that's not possible then gm has all kinds of plugs and pigtails available you would need to hunt down a catalogue on line of check a few stores. Probably very common. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The 94 Camaro had a pretty nice injection system. Apparently it's not to hard to wire into the jeep. With the Camaro harness and ecu of course. I'm not sure what some of those switches are from, some look like they are Camaro and some like the vacuum switch are old 2.8. The intake I'm pretty sure has to be 2.8 oem for the carb to work. I do know it is not edelbrock for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Front of the engine to the right in the front is the oem temp sender. This temp sensor is the 84-85-86 sender for gauges, a PITA to find because the parts books skip over it, not just because it was used in jeep and Isuzu, Chevy changed it in the early 80s most of their part books do not show it either. The Camaro 3.4 should have something similar in the same spot. There is a two prong switch on the 2.8 manifold I think it went to that POS fuel preheater. Not quite like the one in you picture but similar Those tall vacuum switch towers respond to heat opening at certain time for emission reasons. If you can bypass them you're better off. Far as getting a fan going If if we're me I'd hunt through the s10 forum for the folks who have done the Efan upgrade, save a lot of headaches to follow someone who's done it. Or hit rock auto and scroll through the sensor for the Camaro to find what you need looks like and piece it together that way. You've got a mix of old and new that makes it confusing, hope to hell you don't have to pass emissions. A lot of that crap has nothing to do with how well it runs and new carbs and catalytic converters do a much better job but states can be particular about that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro