jmderyke

that seems to be a common problem, you will see that a lot on this site. Surf a bit and you will see a few different options of what people did with there floor rust. Some use new sheet metal and others recycled the metal from cherokees. Its a bit of work, but its fixable if theres a will theres a way!!!! ps if you don't have the tools get them you will use them again!

it sounds like the fuel controls are not working properly like when cold starting. Since you just swapped everything from xj to mj make sure the different sensors, injectors, engine control unit,and wiring connections and routing are compatible. Then bust out a manual and test fuel and emission controls and ignition. Good luck

I found a good priced place but i havent put in a order yet for the vinyl floor. $120 for carpet or vinyl bets the hell out of $300. I don't know of a place to get the headliner. You may have to get someone to cover the headliner. http://www.auto-interior.com/jeep4.htm.

Whats wrong with 9.7:1 compression on a inline six that never gets passed 6k rpm?.....Nothing There can be some other factor influencing engine behavior not addressed such as fuel injection tuning. Most fuel injection systems in late 80s+ run closed loop injection systems, this is when the car is constantly adjusting air fuel mixture based on exhaust,throttle position, altitude, manifold pressure, engine temp, combustion, etc etc. Then the Engine control unit chooses a map (air fuel mixture, timing etc. etc.) The problem that most people run into is that they change engine parts in your case and the computer has no maps that really match what air/fuel mixture, timing etc etc you really need to run properly. So you may need to get new program for your e.c.u. to over write your existing maps, like a dyno programmer for example. Think about this... sport bikes run 12.5:1 on 91 octane fuel with rpms at 12,000. You just need the right tuning for you application I hope this helps. p.s. tuning is one of the best power adders!

I just bought the truck the 4wd works great,...... but its still a crack about 1/4" long at the output shaft seal not sure what caused(maybe a bearing or u joint??) who knows how long its been like that i just seen it when doing some other work. Does the 231 have the same spline count? And do i have to pull it from a manual transmission since i have a manual transmission?

No big deal, i got some stock rims ( off later cherokee but they have my highway tires on them) So back to Darryl, did you figure out what lift you want yet?? :thumbsup:

need rear output housing on np 207 transfer case.

nevermind found one $219.

I have the new process 207 and it has a crack at the rear housing near output shaft seal. I can't find a new rear housing anywhere, does anyone know where i could find one? will they interchange with any other housings?

nice job and good pics this really helped me preplan for my rear window removal. I just need to find a rear slider instead of my solid glass!

Is there any manual switch made instead of a vacuum and if so are the worth it?

I didnt know rusty's had a bad rep. lol maybe i need to rethink their lift. And i do get some fender rub with my 31s, but this maybe due to the off set of the rim compared to stock rims??

rusty's.com pictures of customers rigs with their products. They also list what tires, drive train that the customers are running. Rusty's has a 4.5" spring over rear axle kit or spring pack for spring under rear they also have a 6.5" and 8" . I have 31x10.5 on r15 with no lift and it limits travel a bit. I'm going with the 4.5" once i drop the dana 44 in the rear and have enough for the lift. :typing:

nice!

ok i rechecked the control arms and they only have little rubber flex, the center link must be to blame it does have some knocking when i turn the arm by hand

Ive have a lot of play in my shifter i believe i need a new shifter bushing and washer and while I'm at it replace boot, but I'm having a hard time finding these parts anyone know of a good place to buy them? and what other parts should i replace while doing this job? :popcorn:

crazy right haha it looked like it got a small dent in it from previous owner near stater and that created a small gap with only the dent touching housing in that area

haha sorry eagle i just wanted to make clear that this is clunk is far from normal. :yes: Yes it twists fine, but no sloppy back and forth movement. I checked the control arm bushings with small pry bar the rubber seemed soft, but i think should go over them again...... I was reading about bad control arms bushings on some polyurethane bushing site. If they are shot what is a better replacement polyurethane bushings or just replace the control arms?

normal? no it is surely not normal, maybe a common problem.

i have a 86 comanche with clunking sounds in the front end, it happens mostly when going up hill and go around a turn or hitting washboard on dirt roads. the track bar is tight, but i can rotate the center link by hand is this normal for the tie rod ends?

found the rattle! it was the flywheel inspection cover, it was tight but still had a rattle bent it a touch good as new

Yeah i thought it was the cat. but its solid. I check the connection at the crossmember when i first got the truck and it was fine. No doubt its coming from the bell housing. I'm going to start tear down later today and i will post my findings. Thanks for the thoughts guys

it rattles all the time, at idle, driving around, clutch engaged and disengaged, under loads and going down hill with no load, it will stop at certain rpms when driving around for a second or two then go back to rattling. I'm thinking a loose clutch finger on the pressure plate or spring on clutch friction plate, or release lever not sure, any thoughts?

I have a 86 Comanche that has a rattle that sounds just like a exhaust rattle but its coming from the transmission, the flywheel inspection cover is tight maybe a loose clutch part. anyone ever have this problem before?

I'm sorry to say this but i bet 1 million dollars that its not the timing chain, because it would be running poorly all the time. I looked at the trouble shooting guide and here is what it said: 1.egr not functioning properly 2. Ignition timing 3. Thermostatic air cleaner not working properly 4.vacuum leak 5.damaged valve springs/ valve 6. Intake air leak You said it backfires during shifts around 2500 rpm so now we know its not mechanical cause if it was it would be doing it every power stroke (backfiring all the time). so timing chain not likely unless you heard it slip, and the engine would run very poor threw most of rpms. I have a test you should do.. if you have a mityvac hook it up to the top of the egr valve( if you don't have a mityvac get a piece of vacuum hose and use your mouth) and apply suction (about 10inch lbs of vac.) now it should hold it for at least 20 sec. if it doesnt the diaphragm in the egr valve has a hole in it. ( if there is a hole in it, that would be the answer to your backfire at 2500rpm because air will get into the exhaust threw the hole in the diaphragm even if you put a cap on top). :typing: please let me know if it works if not i will get another test for you o yeah check to see if you got a plug wire mixed up and put on the wrong cylinder