jmderyke

Thanks for the help! I may do a trial and error route of adding a couple leafs. I use my truck more for fire wood and camping hardly any wheeling.

1986 4x4 2.5 dana 35 spring under I was given a rubicon express 4.5" xj lift with springs, upper and lower control arms and extended brake lines, I was told the springs settled to 4". To finsih my truck I wanted to put an add a leaf on the rear of about 3" since it sits about a inch higher in the rear it should balance out? The only company I can find for 3" for the mj is rustys offroad any others?

Thats what Ive been reading on other forums that all my old parts should bolt up, but I havent found any hard evidence of that yet....... I might just have to get the engine and see what happens.

My trusty 1986 2.5 engine finally quit without warning yesterday, the timing chain broke and made a mess of the engine. I found a used 2.5 out of a 1995 wrangler and I'm pretty sure it will all swap over without problems but I wanted to make sure. I'm going to use all my old misc parts off my original engine like tbi water pump and fly wheel etc. They should all swap right? I tried searching this topic but no luck Thanks fellow comanche clubbers

1986

Ok I have an 1986 2.5l with an ax5 transmission with an external slave cylinder. the other day my clutch stopped disengauging so on tear down i found my clutch looking like a rats nest, a spring from the clutch was jammed in the fingers and my clutch release fork is bent. The problem I'm having is finding a new clutch release fork. There are later model release forks that look like it but are different, the way the throw out bearing mounts on the fork is the main difference, and also uses a different throw out bearing. I was just wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and if a later model release fork and throw out bearing will work. Thanks

I do when I change my oil and when i don't start any my vehicles for a while. Mostly all fuel injection systems will not start when at wide open throttle it won't send spark. fyi

I have a the np 207 behind my ax5 transmission in a 86 mj. It has been acting up and recently and to top it off the speedometer gear broke and I can't find the right size one anywhere. The later years speedo gears are easy to find but the np 207 uses a gm right hand driven gear that is impossible to find a 19 tooth gear. Anyway I have a 89 xj parts rig with a np242 behind a automatic transmission and not sure if it will bolt up to the ax5 transmission with a 21 spline so my question is does the 242 have a 21 or 23 spline input shaft?

good idea newfiemj, maybe check your coil sutek since you did have spark for a little while, just use those pics I posted in "won't start this morning" post... I wrote the specs right by the pictures.

Theres another post on here where the guy is having the exact same problem as you. So your I figured your problem has to be either in the engine control unit, the wiring to or from it or a sensor to it. maybe we should jump onto his post "won't start without shot of fluid"

There is also another guy on here having the exact same problem as you on post "won't start this morning" I will get him to come onto your post here. It will start with some fluid and once it starts it will run until next time you try to start it. He said at first there was no spark so I showed him how to test his ignition system, now he says theres spark but needs starting fluid to get it started. What year is your tbi sounds like 86-88? So its gotta be the ecu either isnt getting a good signal from sensors or to injector, or the ecu can be bad. Since you put on a new cps did you happen to see flywheel condtion? Maybe it just has some grime built up on it and the cps can't get a good signal. just a thought

ok... don't replace anything else ..... look at the second picture i posted at the fuel injector and see if you are getting power to the injector. Switch the multi meter to dc volts and you should get a reading that jumps around, if no power to injector let me know i will show you how to test other stuff.

well you have spark now? ok you need to do these test when you don't have spark cause they will test good. Will your truck start?

use the top, way better connection and reliability. Maybe switch to a maintenance free battery gel sealed I think worth the few extra bucks..... more cranking power and no corrosion!

hows it coming? Remember your spark problem was intermittent so you have to do keep checking to see if you have spark, cause its hard to find a problem when its working.

Ok first use a known good spark plug and use it to see if you have spark, If no spark check and make sure your cap and rotor are in good condition, then check ignition wire from coil to distributor cap, if no connection = bad if high ohms = good ok if everything looks good check your crankshaft position sensor (or called top dead center sensor) look at the connector to ensure its making good connection and no dirty prongs, check the resistance... it should have high ohms like in picture, if its ofl (no connection) or a low value for example 2.8 ohms its bad If thats good check AC voltage, leave the test leads in same position just switch your multi meter to v~ go inside and crank the engine, you should get a reading that jumps all around, if you get nothing its bad. If your cps is good check your coil, remove it from your ignition control unit. first test should have no connection ( ofl ) Then next test should be with in 0.2-0.8 ohms Then your last test should be around 2500 - 5000 ohms If coil is good check power to ignition control module, connect like shown switched to DC volts then turn ignition switch on you should get close to battery voltage, then crank engine, while cranking no lower than 9.5v. If that test is good then its prob your ignition control module, manual says you need a special tester for that I don't have one so I use a spare from a donor cherokee ( or find one from a junk yard) Hope this helps! I will check in later good luck!

no prob! give me a few I'm going to post some pics

You will save a bunch of money buying a good multi meter and a good manual. so if i can find time tomorrow i will post some pics and how to test your ignition system. you will need a multi meter and hopefully we can get you back on the road tomorrow! :cheers:

So I honestly believe you have a bad connection somewhere in your electrical for example like your sparkplug wire from your coil to distributor but I will show you how to test your injector. Ok you said you have fuel pressure and spark so test your injector (they hardly ever go bad fyi) connect one lead to +12v and TAP your negative on your battery terminal (DO NOT HOLD IT) and listen for small clicks coming from your injector. No fuel will come out so don't worry if its not If the injector clicks then you need to check power coming from your ecu, at the injector wires while cranking engine. You will need a multi meter, if you don't have one, barrow one or buy one, you WILL use it many times over and it will pay for its self.

well you can either put a little gas or starting fluid through the throttle body to see if she will fire up..... or you can jump the injector with 12v tapping one connection on the battery listening and watching to see if injector is working..... like testing a solenoid

O man someone gotta hold of that mj and wasnt too nice at all......... Welcome to the club! Theres a lot of cheaper lifts out there but you get what you pay for and it depends on how high you want a lift?

was the injector spraying? or did you just disconnect the fuel line and turn on the ignition key?

well if you have fuel, then you said you have spark at your wires then it must not be reaching the plugs double check your wires connections from the coil and cap. are the wires in the correct firing order? And for the life of me I can't remember the spark plug size I always use one of my deep socket set.

do you have a multi meter? or know someone that does? the cps is usually the problem child of the ignition electrical system you need to test it. try tapping it, if you don't have multi meter sometimes that will make a connection in the cps

That thing in the picture controls engine idle, it just opens or closes the throttle body slightly to keep the idle around 800rpm when hot and a little higher when the engine is cold. It will run without that part.