JACKED88

I want to replace my fog lights with spot lights. And, I want my fogs/spots to work while the bright headlights are turned on. As you know with the factory wiring the fog lights only work while the headlights are on dim. When you turn on the brights the fog lights turn off. Is there a simple way to by-pass/override the switch that turns off tha fogs when you turn on tha brights??? Sure, I could hardwire tha fog/spot lights to tha switch but I thought there might be an easier way to override tha system. Like simply disconnecting (or splicing togather whichever is tha case) the wire/wires comming from the headlight brights switch)

OK but the intakes are different. Thought I heard/read the newer 99 intakes have better air flow than the 96 does.

My son wants to lift his 99 WJ. He's looking for a pair of 3" front coil springs. Thanks. Robert

Will a 4.0 intake and injectors out of a 99 WJ give a 96 4.0 in a ZJ better performance???

I have 4 props: a 24 and 26 pitch Turbo, the 25 pitch Pendergrass and a 17 pitch Turbo, which I use for pulling skiers - talk about hole shot! :eek: Just in case you didn't know, or for the other guys, a SF-180 Skeeter is an 18-1/2 ft long fish and ski model. I used to do a lot of bass fishing, and I liked it because the heavier boat really handled the rough water. It has been a while since I did any white-knuckle river runnin', though (61 yrs old), so the 17 pitch prop pretty much stays on the outboard. It literally leaps out of the hole and handles like a sports car and will still hit 45-50 mph at 6000 rpm. The day I hit 85 mph, Richard Pendergrass was promoting his new prop on Pickwick lake in Northeast MS (on the TN river), and my brother-in-law and I happened to be there. I had already bought and installed one of his props and asked him if he would clock us with his radar gun. He agreed and the rest, as they say, is history. At the time Staniless Steel performance props were selling for a whopping $350.00 each. :thumbsup: -Tom I have several props but only one that performs very well. I threw my 19 on just for kicks and it acted about tha same way as your 17. Awsome hole shot but it'd only do about 60 mph. I like my 24/4 but wish it had a little more top end. Hence tha need for a worked 25. 61 huh. I'm 52 and know several guys older than either of us that are still racin or runnin fast boats. (100+mph) There aughta be some river racers in your area. You aughta find out where they meet/run and check um out. You'll be amazed how fast some of those guys outboards can run. Especially when their sprayin nitros and pumpin out 500+ hp. Robert

Nice lookin Tahiti. Jets are definately fun as long as you can afford to keep gas in um. What am I talkin about? I don't git crap for gas mileage outa my little 240+ hp 2.6L outboard either. I've run 20 gals through it in less than 2 hours. Whats that other boat in tha garage? From what I can tell it looks kinga like my Chaparral.

Thats a pretty heavy boat. Just think what that motor would do on one that weighs half as much. A hydrolic j/p is tha one thing I don't have yet. That and hydrolic steering. My plate is manual with 6" of set-back. I'm runnin a Bob's nose cone with low water pickups at 2" below tha pad. Any higher and I git too much cavitation when I take off. I can actually run quicker in the 1/8 mile if I run it about 3 below (better hole shot) but I loose a couple of mph on tha top end. Personally I like having a better hole shot than running wide open top speeds. I could change my set-up a little and run a higher pitch prop and get into tha 90's but I'd loose that set you in your seat hole shot it has as it is. I may do it one day just to be able to say it'll run 90+. I'm run a Prformance Propellers 4 blade 24 most of tha time. Great hole shot prop but probobly not tha best for top speeds. I also have a Yamaha 3 blade 27 but its actually too much prop and won't let tha motor reach optimum rpm's. Been lookin for something like your runnin in a nice 3 blade 25 but havent found one in good condition or one that I can afford. Its rediculous what ss props cost. I'm thinkin about just having a little work done to my 24 and stick with it.

Naaa, It wasnt gonna go over. I was just playin with tha trim button. My boat wasnt designed to compress enough air under it to make blow over. That and its actually pretty heavy compaired to tha race hulls you see blow over sometimes. Admittingly I've almost lost it a few time due to chine walking at about 70+ but I've never felt like it was getting enough air under to blow over. In fact, I've even run it into a light breeze in an attempt to git more air under it and therefore make it go faster. Tha less boat or drag you have in tha water tha faster you can go. Hence the design of tunnel hull boats. The idea of a tunnel hull is to compress as much air as possible under tha boat so it lifts tha boat out of tha water. Tha boats you see blow over are actually flying with no more than just the prop touchin tha water. In some cases they start flyin just a little too high and before ya know it, up and over they go. I'm pretty confident that won't happen in mine. Happy boating!!! Robert

No doubt 85 mph is haulin @$$ on water. I know you had your hands full of wheel in a 180 at that speed. The only thing I don't like about goin fast is gittin past tha chine walking. After that is hold on tight and hope like hell you don't hit somebody elses wake. My boat doesnt like waves/wake what so ever. Thats why we usually run in tha river where the waves disipate onto tha banks pretty quickly. Have fun but be carefull out there. Robert

Lets race!!! What ya got??? My little so called hot rod is a 1986 HydroStream Valero YT with just a slightly tweeked 240+ hp Yamaha 220 Special outbaord pushin it. I'm definately into boats considering I have about 8 of um. Had my computer not crashed a couple of months ago I'd have pix of all of um. As it is I'll have to take some more before I can post um. Wait ....... I do have these videos of me actually winnin a few races at the Winter Nationals held here in Houston on tha San Jacinto River every year. These races were short hole shot runs only an 1/8 mile long. Most of us internally stock motor guys are only runnin about 80 through the 1/8th. Ya know, I keep lookin at those vids and it sure doesnt look like we're runnin in tha upper 70's to 80+ mph just past tha markers but thats what my GPS was tellin me every pass. Oh well, pretty cool huh. No doubt its way too much fun for an old fart like me to be havin. Not to mention a little dangerous too but we don't tell tha wife that part. She don't care much for that boat. She likes my 21' Chaparral that only goes about 40 mph. That and her little waverunner and a 16' Tahiti ski boat I fixed up and had to give her. :roll: (thats kind of a funny story I'll share some other time) More later. Robert BTW, there's a lot more vids of all the other boats that were at tha race. Just click on one of those small pix at tha bottom of those vids.

OK so if your doing a 4x4 auto conversion, I assume there's a seperate controller for the 2x4 trans and if so will that controller also work for the 4x4 trans?

I need that info as well so I also try to do some research in these areas .......... What's the latest/newest AW4 that you can install behind a 88 4.0 without having to do any wiring mods? Same question but what wiring mods will need to be done to the latest AW4's in order to work properly in an older (88) MJ? When converting a 2x4 to a 4x4, will wiring have to be run from the vehicle to the trans and t/c for them to work properly? If so, from where?

Just got back from across town pickin up my some Jeep. Tha motor they put in it sounds pretty good. Has little upper end noise but nothing out of tha norm for an I6. Before we said our fair wells to tha j/y owner we took it for a test drive with me following my son around for a few blocks watchin for smoke but I didnt see any. Tried to git tha j/y to give us another 30 days of warrenty but he'd only give us two more weeks. I suppose if something is gonna go wrong it'll do in that time or less. I was sure to tell tha owner I hoped I'd never see him again and if I did he was either doin it again or givin us our money back. He said he wasnt doin it again and that this should be a good motor. I guess time and a few miles will tell. Thanks again for yalls help. Had I needed to git into it with tha man at least I woulda had the knowledge to put up a good fight. Robert

Yes, it has the coil packs meaning it has the newer style head with tha smaller exhaust ports and bosses for tha coil packs. You didnt miss anything. I didnt mention tha frontal wreck in this thread because I had already done so in my "Water in oil" thread. You really need to keep up. LOL!!! Just messin with ya. Thanks again for your help. BTW, I'm sorry to say all this may have been for nothin. We're going to pick up his Jeep in a few minutes. J/y claims its ready having installed that motor that was on a pallet under a shed. Its supposed to be an 02 however tha milegae is unknown. I sware If that motor has any kind of knock or tha slightest hint of smoke commin out of it I'm gonna tell um where they can stick it. I'll let ya know later tonight how it turns out. Still pisses me off that they've had tha Jeep for two frickin weeks jackin with this motor. Had tha SOB listened to me and installed that 05 motor like I wanted him to, we coulda had it back a week ago. :fs1:

Thank you for the verifying that 05 motor interchanging into my sons 99 WJ. As for tha head and or gasket, we had the head checked and redecked at a machine shop. They didnt find any cracks in it yet the moto was still getting water in the oil. That engins had been hit hard in the front. Hard enough to have cracked the harmonic balancer and bent the water pump pully back against the timing chain cover. We replaced tha water pump and pully. All we could figure from that point was that the water jacket must have cracked and it opens up or expands once the motor gets warm.

Native TEXAN here. Live just west of Houston in the Katy area. If your ever headed this way, give me a holler. I'll buy tha first round. :cheers: (unless your comin through in a tour bus) :rotf: See ya. Robert

Ut oh ....... I hope this doesnt make a difference for what I'm trying to do but ....... my son has a 99 WJ not a ZJ. (I can't keep track of all these cj, yj, zj, xj, wj, mj, and however many others letter badges there are) How bout this ..... His Jeep is a 1999 Grand Cherokee Larado 4x4 with a 4.0 and auto trans. Same question, different model vehicle. And yes. Before other people read it, I edited my questions to WJ. Sorry for tha mix-up. BTW ..... I read something about tha water pump bolts being different on an 05 Wrangler motor. How can they be different if the block are tha same? Also read that the motor mount bolts on the WJ are metric where the Wrangler "TJ" are standard. Not a big deal, just a difference to be aware of.

Thats what I thought with the exception of thinking we'd have to use his 99 manifolds. I'm done jackin around that frickin j/y owner. Come tomorrow I'll either have my sons money back and his jeep sittin in tha driveway (without a frickin motor in it) or I'm gonna stay there till I see that Wrangler motor gittin installed. And yeah, I'm gonna mark tha damn motor before I leave. I know he's still gonna argue that motor won't work. I need to find something that proves it will work so I can insist he installs it or gives it to me so I can install it. I hate to do this to ya but I've gotta be sure I have tha right ammo before I shoot that @$$ hole j/y owner. ....... So your sayin everything on that 05 except the accessories/brackets will bolt up and plug in to his 99 WJ wiring harness and run. Right??? Jeep didnt change any of the electrical plugs, use different sensors with different plugs, relocate anything like sending units, or anything else ???????? I know its a lot to ask but as before I just need to be sure. Otherwise I'm gonna look and sound like a total idiot if I'm not positive of what I'm fightin for. At this point I'm not gonna be satisfied till I have that 05 motor installed in my sons Jeep. You guys have shared a lot of info with me in tha short time I've been on CC and I truely appreciate all of it. However this time is a little different. We've got over $900 dollars invested and riding on this one and definately can't afford to git screwed. Thanks again. Robert and son

Oh yeah. Well then that pisses me off!!! :fs1: Remember my "Water in the oil" thread about that j/y motor my son bought. After tha j/y decided we didnt do the head gasket right and decided to do it again themselves, it was still getting water in the oil. That motor obviously had an internal crack so we're getting it replaced. We went to tha yard to see what other vehicles he had with a good motor in um. They've got an 05 Wrangler Limited that had rolled with minimal front damage so we told um we want tha motor out of it. First thing he says is that motor won't work claiming the accessory bracket holes are different. I tried to argue while he pointed at his computer showing me what years were a direct swap. They've now installed a motor that was sittin under a carport without a valve cover or manifolds on it. We don't have a frickin clue what year it is nor how many miles are on it. Last time I talked to him tha motor was in but they couldnt git it to crank/start. Needless to say I'm goin out there tomorrow and one of two things are gonna happen. Either their puttin that Wrangler motor in it with my sons original 99 manifolds or I'm gittin his money back along with our original motor. This crap has been goin on for 3 weeks now. Enough is enough. :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Oh, just so you know ...... after the 2nd head gasket failed to fix tha water/oil problem, lets just say we negotiated for them to pull the cracked motor back out and install the exchange motor. Probobly not one of my better ideas. :wall: What can I say. I was pissed and not looking forward to doing another motor swap.

Thanks!!! After doing some research I found out that date coding doesnt tell me what i need to know. I'm trying to find out if the intake and exhaust manifolds from a 99 WJ will work on a 2005 Wrangler motor? If they will bolt up, is there any other reason why an 05 motor with the 99 WJ manifolds can't be installed in a 99 WJ? From what I read, both motors are tha same. Same block. Same head. Different manifolds. From what I can tell the only reason they won't interchange is due to manifold differences and some sensor locations. Wouldnt that problem be solved by swapping the manifolds?

Thanks!!! So what are the numbers on the driver side near tha back just above the oil pan?

Is there a date code cast into the side of the engine block on a 4.0? Such as an 01, 02 and so on.

I don't intend to use any but if get a vibration while loaded, I just wanted to know if their an exceptable method of making fine adjustments. I'm OK with usin um but like you said ..... within reason or moderation.

It'll likely be empty more often than not. But if an additional couple of degrees in angle won't promote vibration or excessive wear then that may be tha way for me to go. (somewhere in between like you suggested.) Worst comes to worst I could always shim it. Speaking of, if I wanst having to relocate my perches and therefore giving me the opertunity to set the dif angle, is shimming a bad way to go and/or a big no,no?

OK, but what about leveling tha truck? Shouldnt it be at "ride level" before you guage the trans/tc output shaft angle? From time to time I'll be hauling several hundred lbs in tha bed. Should I compensate for the body drop due to tha weight? (add a degree or two to my angle) I've got tha welding handled. I've got a small welder I can tack tha perches with and my nephew has a real nice Miller thats more than big enough for tha job.