ajpolitz

I just don't see how. It appears the CPS is right against the cowl. Has anyone on here replaced a CPS on a 4.0 2WD without dropping the tranny? Is so, how? I.ve done mine twice, once just because I thought it went bad while troubleshooting another issue. Off is easy: I used a 3/8 drive with a 12" extension, + universal (wrap the universal joint with teflon tape 5-6 time to stop the flop). It's a little tricky at first but it will work out. On: On the bolts, wrap a little teflon tape around the head of the bolt. This will help keep the bolt stuck in the socket and prevent it from falling out into the bell housing. Tighten it by hand first using the extension + universal. You don't want to cross thread anything. Anthony Ajpolitz, did you do this from above the engine or from under the truck? Gotta roll around on the ground for this one. Layoff the coffee, you'll need all the patients you can get.

$9.50 too much 8) Ajpolitz

I just don't see how. It appears the CPS is right against the cowl. Has anyone on here replaced a CPS on a 4.0 2WD without dropping the tranny? Is so, how? I.ve done mine twice, once just because I thought it went bad while troubleshooting another issue. Off is easy: I used a 3/8 drive with a 12" extension, + universal (wrap the universal joint with teflon tape 5-6 time to stop the flop). It's a little tricky at first but it will work out. On: On the bolts, wrap a little teflon tape around the head of the bolt. This will help keep the bolt stuck in the socket and prevent it from falling out into the bell housing. Tighten it by hand first using the extension + universal. You don't want to cross thread anything. Anthony

I have the carpet sitting in the bed of my Manche right now, along with floor mats. I'll take a couple of shots this week and post them for you. I would say the carpet is equal to or better then OEM.

I had a '76 Cutlass I restored and used an ACC carpet. Now I picked one up for my Comanche. Good carpet. Goes in nice with just enough extra. Anthony

As I was browsing the board checking out your rig, the banner was the only thing my 2 & 4yr old noticed. Love'm them Hot wheels! Trying to get a set of rims from a Liberty for my 89 Eliminator (Hot wheels looking) Painted and machined face. Anthony

Fronts only right now. Know of a good source? Anthony

Saxon - Old School HM rules! Anthony

I am looking to replace my inner fenders. Will the inner fenders from a 86-89 Cherokee fit an '89 Eliminator? These are plentiful. Anthony

Mine was rear, Jeep actually had a fix to install a shorter drive shaft but it did not fix the problem. It sounded like the pinion gear in the rear to me but Jeep claimed different. Never got rid of the whine until I sold it. ( Had to buy a bigger truck, second child was on the way ) My 2008 FJ had BUMP STOP! - Traded that b****h in after a year of owning it. ( Costly mistake ) A-

99XJ has something to do with the Drive shaft. My 99XJ whined like a b****h. XJ and WJ for 1999 all had the same issue. Anthony

Champion Plugs ONLY - The fancy one's work like DoDo!

That was exactly my issue. All of a sudden one day after firing her up and backing down the driveway, she stopped and would never fully start again. I order a new pump, dropped the tank, just to find out it was the pickup tube hose that hosed me. I replaced the pump anyway, no need to go thru all this again. My new pump rings out at 35psi! Maybe I'll see better milage too! Anthony

I found this spec on another Jeep site, this one is the way my system reacts when trying to adjust the TPS. This might work for you on the TPS: THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 1) Turn ignition on. Check throttle position sensor input voltage. Connect voltmeter negative lead to terminal "B" (M/T), or terminal "D" (A/T) of sensor connector. Connect voltmeter positive lead to terminal "C" (M/T), or terminal "A" (A/T) of sensor connector. NOTE: On (A/T) models, connector terminals are identified by letters molded into back of connector. On all models, do not disconnect TPS harness connector. Insert voltmeter test leads through back of wire harness connector. On some models, it may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold to gain access to sensor wire harness. 2) Move and hold throttle plate at wide open throttle position (M/T), or close throttle plate completely (A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Input voltage at terminals "B" and "C" (M/T), or terminals "A" and "D" (A/T) should be 5 volts. 3) Return throttle plate to closed throttle position (M/T), or maintain throttle plate in closed position (A/T). Check sensor output voltage. To do so, disconnect voltmeter positive lead from terminal "C" and connect it to terminal "A" (top) of sensor (M/T), or from terminal "A" and connect it to terminal "B" (A/T). 4) Move and hold throttle plate in wide open throttle position (M/T), or maintain throttle plate in closed position (A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Output voltage should be 4.6-4.7 volts (M/T), or .2 volt (A/T). 5) If output voltage is incorrect, loosen bottom sensor retaining screw and pivot sensor in adjustment slot for a coarse adjustment. Loosen top sensor retaining screw for fine adjustments. Hope it helps.

Just decided to adjust my TPS and ran into the same issue. A-D 4.67v closed A-B now .81v closed and 4.67v open throttle. '89 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0l A/T. Anthony

---- Wrapping it all up. Truck just suddenly stopped working. It would feel like it wanted to start (run with the starter) and sometimes would for 15/30secs. All electronics good/replaced. New fuel injectors, throttle body cleaned and new gaskets. All new vacuum lines. The truck was running perfect! -- Had full tank of gas (18gals) Drained tank using the fuel pump (since it was working). Took 3hrs to move 16gals ( must have burnt 2gals ). About 1/2 gal remains in the tank. Pulled battery ( please do this ) Disconnected and dropped drive shaft. ( You don;t need to remove / just slide it a side opposite the gas tank) Disconnect 3 wire fuel/gauge harness at connector. Disconnect lower fuel/return line from tank ( might be fuel left in line ) Disconnect upper fuel/feed line from tank. ( main fuel line, may have fuel in it ) Disconnect the inlets on driver side. (two main inlet and vent) Jack driver side up with floor jack, Don't need to get too high, just enough to get the tank out. Back off the strap nuts starting with one closes to cab. ( do the tough one first ) As the tank drops, disconnect the vents line on top of the tank ( I just cut them close to the fitting ) With tank out and on work bench, kick back and enjoy a smoke ( :no: NO! Kidding ) Using a piece of copper pipe and a hammer, spin off retaining ring holding hanger/pump inside tank. Slowly pull and twist the unit thru the hole. Look, ah all the rubber is busted up. Melted like it was in a fire. Yes it is OK to be shocked when you realize those are bare wires in your gas tank. And yes the unit looks like a bomb! Disconnect and replace pump unit. Make sure it is identical to the one you are replacing. My 89 Eliminator 4.0l used the 2.5l fuel tank and pump unit. This is not an uncommon practice of part swapping at the factory. Install new pump, make sure + and - wires are on correctly or you will be doing this all over again. Put assembly back into tank replacing the seal. Tap retainer ring back on using the copper pipe and hammer. (Don't need sparks) Reinstall tank back into truck. Vent garage from fumes and keep garage open! Install battery. Fill with some gas - close eyes - hold breath - turn key. 4-3-2-1, Ignition! Now you can enjoy a smoke and/or a beer. Anthony

She's Alive! Now another problem. With all this fuel pressure, the feed to the rail is leaking, but that's GOOD!

No RockAuto did NOT send or list the incorrect part. Jeep must have had a few extra parts from a 2.5l Comanche lying around they needed to get rid of. I got those parts. I've seen this a lot on FORDS. While have have the tank out, I am replacing the pump now. I am not going to "fix" and reassemble just to possibly do it again. Not to stay the new pump might not fail in the future either. A

Actually, right part was shipped. I have a cross bread Comanche where Jeep decided they had a couple of the old hangers around. I had to order the "corrected" fuel pump which is used in the Pioneer 2.5l trucks. "Carter P74032". Even though it is not RockAuto's fault, they are paying shipping back to them. :banana: Cool! I am also returning the gas tank. My tank has a little grommet inside that helps hold the pump assembly, the new tank doesn't. My tank is in really good shape inside, so I lucked out.

Ok, Quick update. Dropped tank. (remember to drop drive shaft, would have saved a lot of time) Put tank on work bench. Loosen and remove retainer ring. Wiggle out pump/sending unit. Cool! There's the problem ... All the rubber to shot! Disassemble the unit and remove pump from housing. Open box with new fuel pump .. wait mine done look like this :fs1: Take pictures and write down numbers .. Call Rockauto ... What! The pump I am describing is for a 2.5l '89 pioneer :wall: Carter # P74032 But I have a 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0l. WTF!

So where are the pics! :D What kind of parts do you have lying around. Did it happen to have a grey interior? How's the dash? Anthony

I did not check the fuel pressure yet. I've decided to replace the tank and pump and just got them in today. Since I am restoring it and seen the amount on crap on the inside of the filter, it really needed to be done anyway. Once the new tank/pump is in, I will test fuel pressure, which should be perfect unless something on the rail is messed up. Volume on the pump doesn't look very good. Gas only streams out about 1 1/2 inch before dropping off. I am using the pump to pump the tank dry so I can replace it.

Physical switch on column or the ignition module? Anthony

UPDATE: Disconnected the fuel line and connected a 6ft line to it. Manually fired up the fuel pump and let it pump out 3 Gals of gas. Gas stream looked like a real nice flow. Hooked the gas line backup on the jeep and manually over road the fuel pump again while trying to start. Same results again. Note: Seems harder to start as it warms up. Replaced CPS the other day with a known working one. Spark on all cylinders. All injectors are new refurbs. Doesn't seem like all 6 would be bad/plugged at the same time. Plus when I do get it to run for 20-30secs, she runs good, then died. Priming the fuel pump as noted in a past post, yields the same results. Any special grounds, connectors I may need to be looking at? Do you think it might be the ECM? Anthony

If I had low pressure to the rail wouldn't I still need to replace the pump? I've already replaced the filter and the old one had a bunch of junk in it, so replacing the tank would still be a good thing. I am performing a resto on the vehicle and since replace just about everything electronic under the hood. She was running GREAT! before this happened. Maybe the one of the rubber tubes in the tank is the issue and I am sucking a little air. Truck has 60k and sat for about 3 year prior to me starting to dress her up again.