mikekaz1

Hold on I'll snap a pic

engines are for all intensive purposes, identical through all the years. mostly just a electronics and accessory changes

or you can keep the AC compressor and plumb for OBA

i would just T the heater hoses together personally, not sure what ill effects, if any, would be created from total blockage. as for accessory drive, mine is a factory AC delete so it just uses an idler pulley in its place. thats an easy fix. as for removing the heater core and all dash components, i don't see an issue, i would leave the blower fan in place, just because of the enormous hole it would leave, but the smaller foam bypass would be fairly easy to block off. just leave wiring in place and unplug everything

when i bought my truck it came with these "bro" tail lights. i didn't like them, they were ugly and blotched, and its illegal in MA anyways... so i decided to cannibalize them and see what i can come up with. with some careful prying and a tiny bit of heat gun, i was able to pop the covers apart with no noticeable damage! the inside edge (tailgate side) was actually incredibly easy to separate, just a twist of a flat head screw driver popped each end and a slide of the blade cracked it open, then the top and bottom aren't held by anything. lastly the outside edge (bedside) was a little more stubborn; where the inside edge is more surface mounted, the outside is pressed in 1/8", light and careful prying around the top and bottom towards the screw holes cracks the seam. then about 30 seconds of heat gun (watch out the lens discolors and "fogs" very easily) across the whole edge and then just grabbed the reflector base in one and and lens in the other and "can opened" the two pieces in small repetitive tries till they slowly cracked apart. and wala! i have a couple ideas on what to try, 1) cut out the flat portions of the cover keeping the raised section lines, and molding clear/fogged plastic to create a factory style clear lens tail light. 2) scrap the lenses all together and create one smooth plastic lens. 3) open for other ideas... any out there?

stock is 9" in the rear I believe

you had 8" lift springs and didn't know it? something sounds odd here

I've always liked sendsatracs personally

any one have any experience with these and metric ton springs?

this has been working effectively since the install. I used this http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191618608304?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true standalone fan controller. and have had no issues keeping my temp under control

GOT IT! so... after scouring the inter webs for hours I finally found a matching diagram and traced just about every circuit that goes through the PDC and found my list of wrong/bads.... my ignition switch was slightly loose under the dash. (may or may not have impacted this issue), the ignition fuse 6 in the PDC was blown (my ignorance, i tested across the pins instead of removing) which controls, cooling fan, reverse lights, diag conn, cruise, AC, ballast, (never noticed as i don't have any of those other things or they have redundancies) and the ECU pin 31 fan coil connection was loose and fallen in the socket and not making a connection. fixed all those issues and my reverse lights now work and my factory electric fan works also (although it doesn't turn on till ~250*f). i have power and grounds everywhere i should and the negative trigger/jumper "cheat" for the ECU 31 now works to! going to try an aftermarket stand alone temp gauge to confirm or deny dash gauge. if they are really that high I'm going to run a negative controlling relay from my standalone temp sensor to the ECU 31 to turn it on earlier, but also allow the factory system to function normally. and thanks hornbrod for putting up with me over the last couple days with my onslaught of questions and stubbornness!

yes it was runnning, through all testing

I tried toggling a ground, but it didnt do anything, but power would. thats why i went to power instead to test. i bypassed everthing currently by having the relay removed currently and pin 30 jumped to 36, which makes my reverse lights work, when put into reverse as normal and an aftermarket aux temp switch into 87 for my fan

yep i know that, those are the pins i was applying power too.

so i was correct its cooling fan related... i don't understand how or why though... and i don't know a real solution... but long story short,if i put 12v to pin 85 of the cooling relay, i get my fan to work, but not the reverse lights and if i put power to pin86 i get my reverse lights to work, but not the fan. and if i put power to both, nothing works. ....but when i do apply power to pin 86 i also get this small plastic box to click also... i was told it was the fuel pump ballast bypass relay, but i don't really understand what it does.... although it clearly controls more then just the fuel pump.

I can only start in park and neutral and it starts perfect every time (which is correct). and even when cycling through the gears slowly there's NEVER a point where the lights turn on. dead all the way through.

I love having the MT springs. ive hauled a ton (literally and figuratively) of wood and bricks and it handles it really well. I definitely like having them. they ride exceptionably good too. no complaints at all

33x12.5r15 but I have aftermarket flares so it won't be accurate in that sense. the standard for measuring is top of axle tube to frame rail and I know the factory specs are front 2wd-6.75" 4wd-7.75" and rear 2wd-8.25" 4wd-9.25" and if i remember correctly I'm pretty sure I measured mine to aprox. front-9" and rear 11"

so my reverse lights have always worked percfectly. never an issue, idk if it was caused by it or not but seemed to coincide with it...t, but I happened to install a electric fan to replace the mechanical, and then I also wired a jumper to the factory fan coil. works perfectly. but it seems ever since about that time my reverse lights don't work. I know the reverse goes through the NSS but ive never had an issue with it, but where does the power come from? I couldn't find a specific or labeled shared fuse.

installed my mirror blanking panels, factory tow mirrors and chrome door handles!

I wasn't looking for a crazy lifted offroader, so I stayed spring under and just put an adjustable lift shackle for some height tuning. I have 3.5zj coils and the HC-MTs and a 1" shackle and I sat near perfectly level +/-2" over stock, now I have a small forward rake from my plow, but that's to be expected. I have a bunch of before and after pics on my build page if ya wanna check it out. http://comancheclub.com/topic/47096-my-1991-comanche/

Yes and no. Perfect condition Stock MT vs HC MT probably not. But my sagged out, $#!&ty 2wd springs vs HC MT, yes. Gave me about 1-2" enough to level out my 3.5" front springs.

No experience with their add a leafs. But there fill spring packs are awesome!

Wtf. Lost reverse lights now..... time to track that down.

They have a bypass relay for the ballast relay? What's the point? Haha. Well I tried half of the issue. I got my new electric fan installed to replace the clutch fan and the new standalone temp switch for it wired too. And then I just spliced the output of the from switch to also control the stock fan relay coil. So both click on when the temp switch closed now. Did a test drive and climbing a big hill it still creeped up to the 3/4 mark. But never went full bore. This is also with my plow on too. Blocking a lot of airflow