88AKChief

Short answer, because there's nothing wrong with the hub. Wheel studs are super easy to replace. If I wasn't in alaska it wouldn't have taken so long to get them. Also this isn't my daily driver and there's a couple other things before this truck is road worthy so I'm not in a big hurry. Like the seats out of the cab...

So last week when i went to do the ACOS install, I ran into the issue of stripped lugnuts and sheared wheel studs.. Unfortunately I marred the finish on my almost Pristine Turbine Rimes I guess theyre going to need to be refinished.. Any Suggestions?? Headlight Spring Showed up today(Thanks Kkilmer87) I got the new grill installed new turnsignal housing and upgraded the wiring harness to a relay driven harness from PUTCO. I had purchased Halogen Upgrades but i managed to order the wrong ones.. I guess thats my sign to upgrade to LED! I live in Fairbanks AK. The normal quantity of Lugnut studs that Autozone stocks is 1ea. that includes for the cherokee's as well. we have two stores in Alaska I went ahead and punched all of them out and cleaned up the mating surface It took me ten days to get all five studs. All Cleaned up Just waiting on that last one... In the process of installing the grill I found it... the damage from the front end collision. I think with a little bit of heat, and a little bit of persuasion ala hammer style I should be able to straigten it out enough, for some custom frame Tie-Ins for the front bumper I will eventually install. Got the headlight doors in... Of Course I had to take a little break and get back to my normal day job: And a little bit of an action shot. the MJ is once again driveable and on its own weight!!!! I also received some other goodies, a NOVAK shift cable (Thanks PFCliest) and the MonstaLiner kit for the Cabin Tub, Hopefully my next update will show a Lined Cab!! After that its just a matter of reinstalling the interior. here it is as it sits the inside! I don't think I have posted a picture of the seats, I have two captains chairs and both are in fairly good shape I can't complain a whole lot! I am currently still on the lookout for a set of springs to build a bastard pack for the spring over axle I have planned in the summer. that is also when I plan on painting it. the current idea for a paint scheme is a Dark Mettalic Silver, with Raptor on the Rocker Panels.

Thanks Jim! and ill ask my girlfriend if she could come and drive it to work whenever she thinks about it! Never leave the keys with the girlfriend. Ever.

So Excuse the crappy welding... I am new and quite frankly i probably should not have attempted to learn how to weld on mostly rusted through very thin sheet metal. lesson learned. it did come out fairly decent. I do have some more before pictures of the rust however i lost them when my SD Card decided to take a dump so this is what I'm left with. the drivers side wasnt too terrible. you can see the patches i welded in on the left side and the right side. I started with the patch all the way on the left closest to the seat and went right from there.. the one up on the tunnel turned out pretty good but truth be told the metal was a little thicker there as the rust was not as bad as on the left side of the floor. I also replaced a huge section of the front firewall up behind the parking brake pedal. You can see the fiberglass mesh this picture was right before I applied por 15 I added fiberglass to sections of the floor to stiffen it and also help waterproof it as best as possible Interior is not in too bad a shape. here's the passenger side, mostly surface rust, that was all the way up to behind the seat, the grinder with a flap disc made quick work of this. POR 15 Applied, you can see where I added the fiberglass, two reasons for that, one is I felt it would help to waterproof the seams of the patches and to also stiffen the remaining floor where it had rusted but not all the way through Passenger side I didnt do the entire tub, I wanted to save the POR 15 for other areas of the truck that needed it as well, the rubberized undercoating that was applied to the frame is flaking off in alot of places and I figured when I get the bed off I can use it on the areas that are prone to rust. I also already have plans to monstaline the tub, as soon as thats done the interior will go back in. So since I didnt before what I have planned for the immediate future, is mostly just to put it back together. this weekend I installed some ACOS Coil Spacers, which I am super impressed with. They added about an inch and a half of lift to the front and leveled the truck out pretty nicely. I'm hoping to have the front end straightened out this coming weekend and reapplied its missing alot of hardware but so far I havent had too much trouble finding anything other than the headlight adjusting spring! I still do not know what the bumper came off of. it does fit pretty well so I am looking to see if I can come up with some sort of bracket for it to mount back on to the truck so that i will at least be able to drive it. Most of the parts I have are in pretty good shape and just need to be cleaned up. For the future, which right now is looking like next summer when its warm enough to paint. I plan on Flipping the axle and adding some 4.5" RE Springs up front. I want to replace the clutch and throwout bearing since its starting to pop out of reverse. I'll probably just end up pulling the engine at the same time, that will let me sort out the vacuum mess get a good luck at the front end parts as well as clean up the engine bay for paint which id really like to do at the end of the summer. I was leaning towards Metallic Black with silver accents, but lately ive been leaning more towards the original slightly different shade of red with the black trim. I really haven't decided yet. Anyways looks like I owe some pictures of the ACOS Spacers, and the trouble i had with the wheel studs!

I'll send you a PM if Kilmer falls through. thanks Thanks, I live in Alaska. Unfortunately when ordering stuff from websites where shipping is based on zipcode instead of weight/dimensions its better to find someone willing to put the item in an envelope with an extra stamp. (i.e. 1 headlight spring- 3.50, Shipping to 99709- 17.50 math aint right.) That being said I'll book mark this for later reference when i get back down to the lower 48. And there are salvage yards around here but in Alaska in winter time they're not fun and definitely not going for just one headlight spring.

Pm sent

Does anybody have a headlight adjusting spring they are willing to part(sell) with?

Trouble with Pictures Saved for future edits Edited 17 Dec

I hate the new kids we get more and more everyday, and sometimes I wonder if I gave our old warrants as big a headache as these kids give me. Probably.

I think it is from a cherokee chief. not sure the year, the front end was cobbled together before i got it. Thanks, your build was one of the first i read on here! And this trucks hood cable snapped the day i got it home... it must have taken me about three hours before I realized I could just reach up and grab the release rod, lol then i got on here and saw the sticky for the hood release... thats a good tip. As for the bumper i'm not entirely sure, the header/grill and two fenders are from a cherokee so I just assumed it was as well. The bungee cord is literally the only thing holding it up in that picture. it has since been removed, unfortunately whoever did the front end did not reinstall the vacuum canister, and just about every line has been plugged with a screw... so it has a few vacuum issues but it starts right up and idles fine albeit a bit rich. I think if the muffler and cat were not completely rusted out it probably would not idle as well as it does. Right now I'm just sorting out the rust issues, cleaning out the cab i've been digging into it piece by piece, mostly the interior was already torn apart and there are pieces for it all over the place. trying to stick to one area at a time, once i get this cleaned up i'll move into the engine compartment.

yeup I'm at wainwright, be here for a couple more years. Yeah I definitely lucked out with the turbine rims. I do like the roll bar too! I ran into some issues posting more pictures. the floor boards on the driver side were rusted pretty bad, but it was a pretty easy fix. the passenger side was mostly surface not a big issue to fix up.

Hello, I'm a longtime lurker here on Comanche Club and recently I was able to purchase my very own. I have some plans for this little truck, I don't want a show quality rebuild but I do want a nice reliable pickup truck to drive as a daily driver/ weekend crawler. The funny thing about this truck is I wasnt looking for it at the time, I was talking to a buddy of mine and I told him man if i could find an old jeep comanche pick up I'll buy it on the spot. and about two days later I ran across one for sale right down the road from me and Ill be d*mned if I'm called a hypocrite. anyways here she is.. this is how I bought her The truck I bought sight unseen, I was deployed when i found it on craigslist, i talked to the man over the phone and pulled the trigger a pretty straight body all the replaced body panels line up well, just a few cosmetic issues on the front, not a whole lot of rust on the exterior interior on the other hand: left a little bit to be desired. however those are stock captains chairs with all the associated bracketry. you can see in the photo its missing the center console that was found in the bed. unfortunately thats the best photo of the interior detailing the rust I had taken a few more unfortunately my phone dumped them before publishing. Stay Tuned -- Jeff

Depending on how much it weighs, you could get it into the LSA Category, The aircraft itself would be registered as an experimental theres not actually an experimental "license" so to speak added to your actual Pilots License.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-XJ-F-WN.html :wavey: :rock on: :banana: was this directed to me?

which bumper is that on the front?

what if you mounted the xj roof rack rails to the mj bed rails? would the rack be wide enough? then you could mount the cross bars anywhere along the bed frame to accommodate skis/snowbaord/bikes etc... and remove when not needed? might be more convenient as it would be lower as well.. just a thought.

I know this is a year late and therefore may be a moot point. but with the Novak cable you should be able to "shorten" the cable using the jamnuts at the cable ends, which would also shorten the throw and from your pictures it appears that there might be enough adjustment at one or both ends of the cable end jamnuts to back it off the front of the shift gate. anyways just food for thought, i like this write-up its very informative. pictures are a plus.