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Sir Jacob the 2nd

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Everything posted by Sir Jacob the 2nd

  1. Thats a great write up! thanks I'll check that next
  2. I'm fairly certain the pump is bad on mine, I have replace the front oil seal twice in the last six months and it still leaks and I have a vibration when I let off the accelerator. I have brand new moog U-joints in the driveshaft new front wheel bearings and new tires on the truck so all of that has been eliminated as the cause of the vibration so, with the leak and vibration I am fairly sure my pump is bad. That being said I have no idea how much (if at all) that could be contributing to the "surging" but when I am decelerating and applying the brakes as the tranny downshifts, RPMS seem to raise considerably. I don't have a tach so its hard to say exactly how much. but its to the point that it almost overwhelms the brakes pushing me forward. That's what I mean when I say it's surging. Like I said flipping the switch to power has helped considerably. It's not completely gone but it at least feels safe to a point that I am comfortable driving it in town.
  3. Just a quick update, switched the comfort/power switch to power, surging dramatically reduced, thanks for the input!
  4. You know I haven't happened to notice which position the switch is in, thanks Don I'll check that first.
  5. So the MJ surges forward while I'm slowing down as the aw4 downshifts, Is this a normal condition and if its not is there a fix?
  6. Does any one know of a write up on switching over from column to console shift? or anyone done this swap here that could give me a good idea of what parts I need to collect from the u-pull when I make my trip? Any help would be appreciated, thanks guys
  7. unfortunately the closet O'reilly's is an hour from my house haha
  8. okay, thanks for the help guys. I checked the shift cable, the teeth on the plastic clip that connects to the transmission won't hold, so I guess I will need to replace the shift cable
  9. Then only the top procedure on the link I provided applies. Unlike the floor shift, the column shift has only one cable that does the gear shifting and PARK interlock. Before trying to adjust the cable and possibly breaking the 20+ year old plastic pieces, pull the shift cable off the trans lever by removing the two bracket screws. Then put the gear selector in PARK (make sure the detent clicks in), then bolt the bracket back on and eyeball how close the cable end hole is to the lever stud. This will tell you how much (if any) adjustment is needed. A broken parking pawl detent spring can also cause the tranny intermittent PARK engagement......... okay I'll give that a shot. if the pawl is broken, how difficult is that to remedy
  10. is there really that much benefit to swapping to an HO intake? (not to highjack sorry)
  11. Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem to mine, when I go to shift into park sometimes it will lock in, and others there is a loud pop and then the truck starts to roll. any suggested fix?
  12. yeah that's a pretty unique idea. I've wanted to build a scout myself for a while.
  13. On the MJ no. A very similar install is going in my friend's '69 Travelall currently. I hope to tackle my truck after the binder is done. Here's a link to the build: http://www.binderpla...avelall.131507/ Thats a cool build!
  14. I like what I'm seeing :thumbsup: I recently picked a power dist center from a 95 to slap in mine for a few extra relay/fuse spots and clean it up a bit. but I like the versatility of the unit you picked up. So I may be reconsidering my plan. keep the updates coming
  15. That's good to know, puts me at ease a little about attempting it.
  16. "Tanner, I'd check your temperature switch (cost me $20 from Carquest/Advance). The white epoxy that acts as a thermistor gets old and cracks with age. It's a PITA to get to but that would explain the temperature related aspects of the issue. While you're back there (I removed my fuel rail to get to the switch), CLEAN THAT GROUND! 11/16" Wrench, PB'laster, and a wire brush." I will have to look into that because I'm not sure that my temp sensor back there is any good. It's the only sensor on the motor I didn't replace went I rebuilt because it almost looked as if it was cross threaded in there and I didn't want to risk it at the time. But hearing that it has helped this issue you have been having I will have to venture in that direction.
  17. yes that is correct. I will try that. I have new (refurb) ford 5.0 injectors in it. I have not however replaced (or tested) the fuel pump. but again this only happens when it is below 70 here and ONLY until the truck warms up. okay cool.
  18. What have you done so far to troubleshoot? tested and replaced bad cps, Have new plugs wires and distributor because I replaced all of that after I rebuilt my motor. tested and replaced fuel regulator, new fuel filter. tested ignition coil. also tested the MAP. My next step is the A/F gauge just don't have the funds or time to mess with it right this second.
  19. I'm anxious to see if you find out what the deal is using your A/F ratio gauge. I have the EXACT same issue with my truck and have yet to find the issue.
  20. What is the width of your front axle, do you know?
  21. That's similar to what I would like to do, since I will be converting over to 4wd I want to swap both axles at the same time, there is a pair of axles being sold near me front d44 and rear d60 for 700 with 80k on them. I'm going to attempt to get a deal on em'
  22. This ☝is awesome. I appreciate it!
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