Co-MAAAN-cheee

Roger. Next oil change.

Thanks. My Dad came back from Yuma. He has a yj. Down in AZ he's around a lot of jeepers. Got out his 20" screw driver used it as a stethoscope. Said he thinks valve train, likely lifter. Says he's pretty certain its not the timing chain. I don't know. I'm pretty convinced its a lifter. Think my next move is oil change to rotella 15-40 then start work on the leaf springs. Also bothered by the clunking every time I hit a bump. I will say after doing everything cruzer suggested; fix grounds, eliminate c101, #6, clean connectors, clean Tb, check sensors, adjust Tb my truck is running great. Thanks cruder.

Its an 88

As to head gasket seep. Its leaking enough to cause quite a mess below and behind. But I'm not getting an oil spot where its parked. I'm wondering if that'll slow down when I switch to 0w40 synthetic or if I could put in an additive to slow it down. My ultimate goal is to rebuilt the engine. But want to wait on that until I've rebuilt leaf springs, front end and new paint. I have to pace myself. In the end if this diesel sound persist after I replace the timing chain and put in good oil my obsessive nature might force me to reorganizing priorities.

Today I found a marking on the intake manifold that looks like a Chrysler logo. I'm wondering if its possible a Po put a later model intake on, then had to lengthen the egr tube to make it fit. I'm ignorant as to if there is a difference. What do you think?

I recently changed my hb due to squealing. Very common for the rubber to go bad and the pulley drifts off center, then the v's in the belt make noise as they rub on the sides seating into the grooves. I sure wish I had checked my timing chain then as cruzer54 is now recommending I check the chain for a diesel sound I'm getting. I did change the thermostat and might go ahead a replace the water pump while I have it open. Btw pulley misaligned is the number one cause of squealing and its pretty easy to diagnose http://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/serpbelt/

Cruiser. It was plumbing hose. I patched it with copper. I need to make a junk yard run.

My audi mechanic listened and suggested the timing chain. You told me no way on the fast idle thread. I suppose the only way to find out for sure is to open it up and look? I'd sure like to stop the oil leak. I'm thinking maybe I replace the timing chain first then decide what to do with the head gasket. BTW - I found the exhaust leak. There is a metal fabric tube between the exhaust and EGR that's shot. Is that a hokey patch?

Yes, Only at idle. I have a steth and the sound is strongest on the passenger side front. It also sounds loud around the oil pan, especially the front. I'm currently running a napa gold filter with some cheap 5-30 and a quart of Mystery oil. My plan was to run it like that for about a thousand miles. then run some more seafoam for 20 miles then swap to a high quality synthetic. I don't think the PO changed the oil in 4 years. It sat parked for quite a long time as he only used for an occasional 1/2 mile trip to the local boat launch. I put in a brand new high quality valve cover gasket a couple month ago. no leaks there. 5 days ago I thoroughly washed all the crud off the side of the engine so I could pin point the leak. Below is a photo of an engine where I've marked in red where fresh oil is seeping down the side of my engine. I also believe I have an exhaust leak. You can hear that classic "puff puff" sound.

I've spent a lot of time researching what I can best describe as my 4.0 sounds like a diesel at idle. Hot or cold sounds the same. Bring the rpm s up just a bit and the sound goes away. I cleaned then engine with seafoam and am currently running some of cruzers favorite mystery oil. I recently fixed my ccv problems by thoroughly cleaning the valve cover. Didn't see much sludge. Its not the harmonic balancer, i replaced that not long ago. After the seafoam treatment my oil is staying really clean. Flushed the coolant a couple months ago. It continues to look good. I've watched numerous videos where the engine sounds similar to mine but portended to be numerous different problems. Piston slap, broken piston skirt, timing chain, and sticky lifter all suggested. in this video it sounds exactly like mine and the way he describes it seems to match mine to the t. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29I5fNAv-8M. It's easy to believe my problem is a lifter. engine has 135k miles. On top of all that I have what it would describe as a substantial oil leak from the head gasket. It's leaking from the distributor all the way to the back. I've never does something as involved as replacing the head and lifters but think it would be a fun a adventure. I'd sure like to get some opinions and advice?? Btw I covered some of this with cruzer on my fast idle idle thread. I've done the flex plate tip and all of cruzers tips that he insisted I do. And I just replaced the knock sensor.

I adjusted the tps again and all seems fine now. Btw just approved $2k to have my ac compressor replaced in my audi. Won't know if the drier etc Will need to be replaced until he gets the front of the car totally off. Gives me new respect for how reliable and easy my jeeps are.

I started into testing the sensors now that my ground is good. the O2 sensor was showing infinite ohms and the knock sensor was broken in pieces. I replaced both and after starting it ran really fast for a while then settle down. I rechecked the TPS. I would swear the knocking sounds is reduced. It still seems to be idling a little fast, but, I still don't have a tach.

I live in Kitsap county . Home of the of the Puget sound ship yard and the trident nuclear submarines. I bought a 1988 pioneer in January from a guy in Shelton, wa. It had a portland community college sticker on the bumper. It's all original with 4.0, auto, long box. I want to restore as original as possible. Sure would like to find and original bumper in better shape than mine. Since the last post here was last year I'm guessing not much is going on. Sure wouldn't mind hearing from a member in pnw. Btw I spend a lot of time I Portland on biz.

Nice! Glad to help.

Good point. Here's a photo where I pulled apart the harness so you can see where I soldered the the six ground wires together. I pulled a black shrink tube over one side leaving Just the bare end of the wire exposed then shrunk it tight. I then pulled another black shrink tube over that and let it sit. I then pulled a slightly smaller yellow shrink tube over the other side of the wires. Then soldered the all the wires together. Then shrunk the yellow tube over the exposed ends. Then pulled the last black tube about a 1/2" over the first black tube and shrunk it down leaving a finished look. I had a big box of assorted shrink tubes from Radio Shack so I went a little crazy.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/43187-addendum-to-cruzer54s-c101-elimination-deletes-connectors-but-retains-connector-housing-for-orginal-look/

The C101 connector (see Photo 5) was discountined in 1990 due to resitance issues. After 25 years it just gets worse. In tip # 27 of Cruzer54's 25+ Renix tips (click here http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/) He describes how to delete the c101. When done it works great but looks like a 90+ model. I'm trying really hard to maintain as much orginal about my 88 Comanche. I figured out how to delete the connectors but retain the housing for orginal look. I wish I'd taken better photos. Will you please let me know if my instructions need improvements? Before you begin please read Cruzer54's instructions, see tip # 27 on http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips Start by carefully taking apart the C101 connector (I broke the wire ties. you don't want to). See Photo 1. Note that the Male side connector banks are in two seperate housings and the passenger side fits inside of a yolk on the Drivers side housing. it's easier throughout to keep them seperate. Then, Remove the white comb from each of the 4 bank of connectors. The comb is almost all the way out in photo 2. Now, Where Cruzer54 tells you to cut the wires one by one and solder, Instead push the female connector out, cut the connector off, cut the male side wire, then solder as per Cruzers instructions. Photo 3 show a jig I built to help with the soldering. You can see the first 3 wires I soldered coming through the female side of the connector. be sure you aren't crossing wires. Keep them neat. Once all 22 wires are soldered I pushed the shrink tube a little bit into the female housing then re-install the white combs. This helped hold them in place. Now I prepped the male side connectors. Start by removing all the male connector out of the housing. Then cut all of the plastic out of the interior of male side housing. I used an old soldering iron to melt away the plastic, it was messy and I worried I was going to ruin the housing. Afterwords I thought a coping saw or fine band saw would have worked better. Once the interior was hollowed out I cut through resulting tube with an exacto blade then "wrapped" the connector around the wires. Photo 4 shows the Drivers side male housing with the wires in place on the left. On the right I'm holding the passenger side male housing. It's hard to see, but, on the right center of the housing you can see a mark. that's where I cut through it so I could wrap it around the wires. Next put it all back together again and re-install on the firewall. Photo 5 shows it back in place. Note I broke the wire ties. I'm planning on pulling a connector from a Cherokee and replace them. BTW - be sure to do Cruzer54'sTip #6 Sensor Ground upgrade. it's easy and worth the time.

Will do

I sure will. The process needs improvement and I broke the wire tie off. I'm going get a replacement from a junker and redo the non firewall side. Can you wait a couple of weeks for better pics? Other wise post what I got

I was thinking I was going to have to spend $4-$6K to fix a chain tensioner on my audi. Ran some seafoam during a round trip seattle to portland. I am now at 5+ hours of driving with out a CEL. looks like it was some sludge the tensioner. :) Back to my manchee. I got in there and carefully checked the flex plate and re-tighten all 4 bolts. No change in sound. I then took the wand off my mechanics steth and really listened around. was a lot easier to isolate the sound. I'm hearing a loud (wok wok wok) noise that seems to be strongest at the front of the oil pan, but, can hear it anywhere on the oil pan. It only seems to be present near idle. rev it up a bit and it seems to go away. Today I picked my Audi up at the shop, Steve, the mechanic came out a listened to my jeep. He walked away saying he thinks it's slack in the timing chain. Only rubbing at low RPM, then tightening at higher RPM. That sure sounds plausible and now I swear if I close my eyes I can here the sound of a chain rubbing on metal. I'm thinking it wouldn't be that hard to replace the chain and even if that didn't stop the sound it couldn't hurt to update. What say you?

I had the Valve Cover off a few weeks ago to clean out the gunk in the CCV. Everything had a dark brown coating but I don't recall seeing sludge. Certainly not like some of the pics I saw. I had also hired a shop to change the Rear main seal, pan gasket and Valve Cover gasket. They never said anything about sludge. I carefully read through the Flex plate write up you sent me. I'm embarrassed to say I tightened 3 bolts then reported back to you that I complete the flex plate bolts. Yes I said 3. When I get a chance I'm getting back in there and will carefully look for cracks as per "the leave one bolt on" write up and will insure all 4 bolts are tight. I'm afraid I suffer from a little ADHD once in a while. BTW - My daily driver is a 2005 Audi s4. I'm getting a cam shaft over advance code and misfire in cylinders 1, 2, and 3. replacing the cam shaft position sensor didn't help. I'm dropping it off at the German auto place tonight. I'm told thiscould set me back $2K to $10K depending on what parts are bad. I might have to hit the pause button on my 'Manchee for a couple of months. Pray for me.

BTW - I do have a mechanic stethoscope. I tried it and don't know enough about engines to understand what I'm hearing. I would describe the predominant sound I hear is ticking. this morning I listened with the steth all around the engine. At numerous spots around the valve cover I hear what I believe valve train noise. Sounds the same to me no matter were I put it. If I put in on the oil filter I hear a rattle. If I put in on the pan I hear that ratter louder and it seems to be especially loud around the oil pump. I've read a few post suggesting putting in high pressure oil pump. the dash gauge is pretty steady at 40lbs. Again I'm close to moving on to other issues. D

Cruiser, been reading around. I saw some who said their 4.0 sounded like a diesel. That sounds like mine. I'm wonder if I should try replacing the oil pump. Also intrigued by your suggest to another to run mystery oil for a thousand miles. Thoughts. Btw I'd like to get the engine rebuilt inside of the next 3 years and figure this noise is annoying but not likely to result in engine failure. Soon I might just turn up the radio and start working on my leaf springs.

The harmonic balancer was rubbing on the timing chain cover when I bought it, causing lots of belt noise. That was one of the first things I replaced. Do you think it could be the timing chain?

I completed tightened the Flex plate bolts as instructed and changed to Napa gold filter. No perceptible difference in sound. here's a video of the sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y7zl8pqs-Q