Co-MAAAN-cheee

I'm about to drop my truck off to get painted and I desperately want a pristine factory rear bumper. Mine is pretty bent and mangled. I've been searching for a replacement and researching options since Jan. One time I sat in a parking lot waiting for the owner of a Comanche to come back. It was beat and missing lots of parts, but, the bumper was great. He got angry that I even suggested he sell his bumper. I'm frustrated. While mine is beat there is very little rust and I have all the trim. I'm now considering just spending the money to get it professionally restored. Thought I would throw out there a, what did you do? Maybe someone out there has a really nice bumper they would part with because they know how much I would appreciated it? What say you?

Don, I experimented with a similar technique on a Junker emblem with poor results. I'll try it again as you describe. I would note that on the nos emblem the chrome letters are chrome on the face and relief edges so using this technique would alter them from the original design. Not that I think anyone would notice or care, but, I did say I'm a bit obsessive.

I'm pretty ocd about maintaining original look and parts when I can. I'm missing several pieces of my body side molding. I was thinking about buying after market but I can't find anything that's a close match. I'm betting there's a bunch of original molding laying around someone would sell me, but, before I post on classifieds I thought I'd ask what others have done. Maybe there is new molding out there that looks great that I'm not finding. When you restored your truck, what did you do for body side molding?

I bought two nos Comanche emblems on line. Still with the doubled sided tape. :) The chrome is perfect, but, the black is oxidized and there is some distinctive green corrosion along the edges. I don't want to screw these up. Was thinking about soaking them in marine clean, carefully cleaning them with a soft toothbrush, then alcohol, then taking them to a hobby shop to see if a could hire a model geek to hand paint the black. I don't think I have skill to paint in the black with a fine brush. Had also thought about trying to mask the chrome and spray but don't think I could tape the chrome effectively. Anyone aware of a good technique? YouTube video?

In case anyone is interested. I bought the 3-1 springs from general springs (when I mentioned Comanche club he gave me about 10% off) and bushings for the rear shackles from AutoZone. All the other parts had some surface rust but otherwise in good condition. All came off with some elbow grease. I cleaned up the parts then coated with por15 and installed them wet then touched them up later. Used a large socket to push the old bushings out of the shackles. Other than lots of swearing and many scraped knuckles it went smooth and took about 6 hours by myself. Also replaced shocks front and rear. I took dons advice and jacked up the front to check the leveling. On level ground I set a level on the bed. With about 1 inch of lift I'm left with a hit of a rake and the visual look I like. My plan is to eventually install one inch spacers in front. I Decided to wait on that as I believe I'm pretty close to factory rake and am now prepping for paint.

I'll take them. The bid was closed on eBay. Will you send me an invoice from paypal to dhenderson@gcsit.com and ill pay it asap?

I'm confused. How much do you want for a set?

Dummy me, set my drivers side drip rail on the hood a drove off. Black

The rubber is shot on the leaf springs on my 88 long bed. I also have 235 mud tires so a get some rubbing. Also a noticeable rake. After months of reading every post I can find I'm still not sure what I should buy. I'm going for a stock look, but, want a slight lift in the front and would rather not have a rake, but, not sure what I should expect/Want that way. I'm convinced I should just replace the leaf springs. Can someone just tell me exactly what coil, leaf, and etc I should buy?

I have you solved the problem?

I never removed the cable. I removed the lower part of the dash and was able to get wd40 into the column end of the cable. I did this when I was restoring the interior so I had everything except the dash out already. I also cleaned the mechanism on the shift portion of the interlock assembly. You might try taking off the cowling around shifter and inspect the assembly while shifting in and out of part. There is a notch at park that a pall has to drop into before the interlock will release the key. Keep in mind my experience is limited. The links I sent to you have some very experienced advice.

thank for clarifying. Btw - I clicked the link to his rig and saw it was automatic before answering. Google these exact words 'ignition shift interlock cable jeep Cherokee' read the first three links

I had a similar issue and very much double its the cylinder in your case. It was the shift ignition interlock. Google those three words and you find a bunch of useful info. I thoroughly cleaned the cable by spraying wd40 through the cable and problem solved.

Wow. Neat idea. Shoot, I guy could just go to a sign shop and ask for the lettering in negative. Alas, I'm still going to do vinyl because that's how they did in the factory.

thanks to cruzers prodding me I did the c101 elimination, but, I kept the c101 housing for Original look. Posted a DIY. It made a world of difference. Sensors need close to 0 ohms of resistance to work correctly and the c101 absolutely adds unwanted resistance. If eagle is lucky enough to have zero resistance on his c101 now I have to bet he'll get some eventually. The fact that they eliminated it in the factory should be more than enough evidence that its the right thing to do. I'd be interested in eagle checking resistance on each connector pair and letting everyone know the numbers. I Say. Before you so anything else make sure you are getting less than 1 ohms resistance on sensor ground and eliminate the c101. your mother will be proud.

My wife has started teasing me for obsession for Comanche. As well as passion for my own I enjoy spotting others. I have a co worker/friend who enjoys that I enjoy it and he emails photos every time he sees one. he's a field rep covering a lot of rural Washington. He finds about one a week. We sometimes leave each other voice messages where the only word spoken is 'Comanche' depending on how its said it can mean I have good news or just call me back I need to talk. I think I've taken to talking about comanchees in my sleep. Anyway, my wife just doesn't get why anyone would be so in to 'just another small truck' She's taken to also trying to spot comanchees, however, she points at every ranger, s10, Datsun, etc she sees and says 'there's another Comanche.' I've explained to her that the fact that so far she hasn't called out an actual Comanche helps to explain how I feel. According to wiki there were 190k Comanches ever built. Ford has made over 7 million rangers alone.

I spent 40 minutes going through every pioneer photo I could find. I found three different color schemes. The grey tones that we have were the most prominent by far. Btw I'm pretty busy this week so not sure when I can check with signtown again

i stopped into my local signtown usa. they quoted me $220 for setup and production. no bulk discount. doesn't include installation. i'm going to go back to ask some more questions. let me know if you have questions. here are mine * Material? prop kulture uses avery dennison. * i want the graphic to be exact. will that cost more? Also, i'm wondering about colors. do all pioneers have the same two colors like mine, see below?

Looking for input. I have a long bed. I was thinking I could design the strip so there is no taper in the 12 inches at the front of the bed portion so the auto cutting file is the same and short bed owners just need cut off 12 inches. Thoughts?

GrizzzBear. Interesting idea that doesn't interest me. I'd worry about matching color and look. I have considered getting just the bed part cut through automation then hand cut the rest, however, I'm assuming all of the pieces will fit on one sheet. I'll do some research soon and get back with findings.

I'm not an expert in painting. From talking to my local body shop guy vinyl goes over the clear coat. That is consistent with my truck.

As I noted I'm not in a hurry and I want to make sure we do this right. How soon would you need them for your build?

Shippm did you hear back from prop culture?

I'm very interested in getting new decals for my pioneer. I wasn't planning on it until next year or longer. I worked in printing for years and have worked on a number of vinyl signs. I know a guy at a body shop. Says lots of folks who want custom decals go to a sign shop. I'm sure prop_kulture is doing the same and hopefully has the digital files needed for the sign cutting machine. if he does maybe he would offer a group discount. Please let me know what you learn. If not then I'd be in for getting the files designed and working with a sign shop. If I even had just one other person sharing in the prep and production cost it would be worth it. let me know what you think. If there are other folks interested please chime in.

Retirement. He and my mom have a diesel pusher, own a lot with two motorhome spaces, and a yj, and have a bunch of friends all from Bremerton, WA with similar. They all snowbird. Makes me laugh my mom has her weekly card game with the same gals year round.