Dando

I greatly appreciate everyone's help this far, but I think I am truly not getting my point across. The dorman part that was just posted is the transmission side quick connect and I will be replacing that with a 14mm 1.5 to -6AN adapter, then I want to run -6an hose from that towards the radiator. At the radiator the stock line threads into ports at the lower part of the radiator. I need to know the thread size at the radiator. You can almost see what I'm talking about in the first picture scottjeep posted.

Thanks Scott jeep, I think there may have been a miscommunication on my end. I am not trying to flare and repair any of the existing trans lines. I want to replace them entirely. What I need to know is what is the thread size where those lines thread into the radiator.

My draw tite that came on my truck, yes I had a hitch but the truck had not been wired for it, had a flat plate of 1/8" or maybe 16ga steel factory welded by draw tite just to left of the receiver tube when looking from the rear. It was already perfectly shaped to fit the piece through and it had 4 pre drilled holes for bolts. The adapter only properly lined up with two of the four bolt holes so I made due with those two and just used some small machine screws that came with the adapter.

I used this as a way to have both 4 flat and 7pin electrical hookups neatly and without needing an adapter. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200303925_200303925?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

Bump, really hoping someone knows the sizes I need so I can get this stuff ordered, my MJ is my dd and at the moment if I went home I wouldn't want to drive it and risk the trans fluid starting a fire with it leaking directly onto the burning exhaust.

So after replacing the quick disconnects it still have a leak in my transmission lines at the transmission. I am tired of fighting this, until this current leak I had a leak free and clean truck. It's driving me insane. I am currently sitting in an airport waiting for a flight and I'm trying to plan out and order the parts pieces and hoses to convert the aw4 to not needing the quick disconnects. My truck is a 90 MJ 4.0 with a 95 XJ aw4 and transfer case, I also have the factory radiator in place and the factory trans cooler. I know that I will be ordering the 14mm x 1.5 to -6AN adapter for the trans side but whT do I need for the radiator and then the cooler if I want to replace the whole trans line assortment with AN hoses? I can't look at my MJ and measure for the next 12 days but would love to have the parts waiting for me when I get home .

Towards front of truck, inside Towards rear of truck, inside Towards front of truck, outside Towards rear of truck, outside

I'm looking for a set of backing plates for any year zj rear dana 35 discs, looking to convert my 90 when I upgrade to my 95 booster.

Check the fuse for the tail lights, it is built so thT when your tailights go out it shuts down power to your dash lights to warn you about the rear lights being you can't see them

Do your brake lights and taillights work?

What is a "no set of contacts"

So I have a 95 parts XJ and I want to put the brake booster from it I to my 90mj to upgrade. I see that you must modify it slightly for the brake switch to properly work, could I avoid this by simply swapping the brake switch from the 95 also?

I flushed the radiator a couple months ago as a precaution before summer started up so I feel it's good. I don't personally have a thermo laser but I am pretty sure I will be able to get my hands on one pretty easily, good idea.

If this cluster is from an 86, which it could be, is it worth keeping as the 86 did not come with the 4.0L?

Ok so after changing thermostat, still have no aux can installed. After driving 30 minutes and ambient air temp being 85* the truck gauge sits here: After sitting running at idle after the drive the gauge sits here: Now my multimeter doesn't show the aux can being triggered till my gauge reads just below the red. And when the gauge is at about 218*-220* there is no power for the fan. Is it possible being I swapped clusters that my sending unit for the gauge needs to be from a different year to match the cluster? Could my gauge just be reading improperly? It's a new sender for a 1990 4.0L but I am unsure of what year the gauge cluster came from. Any ideas?

I actually already ordered one for the truck, the part number is the same though amongst the years (just in their computer) according to the parts counter guy.

All I did was run two pieces of 14 ga wire into the disconnected fan connector on the fan side from the positive and negative of the battery. I got no movement in the fan.

I plan on replacing it but the part won't be delivered till Tuesday, just figuring why not replace some other stuff while it's easy to get to with the fan already out of the way.

I will post pics shortly to show it all installed

Yes I did try to hard wire the fan with jumpers to the battery, no life out of the fan. Fairly certain the fan motor is bad. Coolant at the moment is straight water. Brand new 195* thermostat this am with new 91+ housing. Unsure of age of the water pump, but seems to be pumping water around. I have cleaned and dielectric greased every under good connection previously, replaced the relay with a know good one as a precaution. The only part of all of this that won't be new seems to be the fan switch, I tried calling my local auto parts store and they can't find it on the computer does anyone know the p/n as I would change it for reassurance.

Yes I was talking about the CTS, I have already relocated it to the HO thermostat I installed on my renix this am.

So yesterday I was driving around a lot. My temp gauge reached just shy of 240ish. When I stopped and checked under the hood my aux fan wasn't running. The wiring read 12v while the engine was that hot and then once it cooled off again the wiring read zero so I assume the switch is working properly. My guess is the fan motor itself is shot after 25 years. Running the heat got the engine to cool down quickly and then in the early nighttime I took it out again and it didn't get that hot after completely removing the fan from the truck. Is the lack of a functioning aux fan truly capable of causing me such cooling issues? It seemed like when the ambient temp dropped at night that truck stayed cool. Can the electric fan make that much of a difference in the coolant temp? Oh and my coolant pressure tank and cap are both brand new, not seeing any coolant leaks from anywhere on the truck.

So when I went to change my engine block mounted CTS I discovered that a previous owner has at one time attempted to change it, poorly. It has been rounded out with what looks like every imaginable tool. At this point it is becoming obvious to me that it is gonna be a pretty large endeavor to remove it at this point thanks to that PO. Probably would have to lift engine slightly and remove the motor mount and then still not quite sure what will work. So while looking at my 95 motor the other day I noticed that it may be possible to relocate it pretty easily to the thermostats housing from a 91+ I have done some google research and I am not sure if this would be a good idea or not. I am getting conflicting answers concerning the differing temps based on the sensor being in a hotter location. What does everyone think?

Fixing the vacuum line has appeared to have fixed the problem. Hasn't happened since replacing the hose with one that better sealed on the throttle body side.

Ok so I replaced the line last night, it ran well this morning. We will see this evening as it usually only does it in the evening after work. Out of curiosity, how could that line cause so much trouble for me?