Dando

ok so all my voltages are correct after replacing my battery in the multimeter, that was dumb, thanks everyone

i suppose it is

ok i would never have thought to check my charging volts etc. so i just checked, with the engine running at idle i have very high voltage again. 20.4V at idle and when shut down all electrical turned off my battery still reads 18.7V. What is going on with my truck?

So tracking down a lack of acceleration issue coming off idle until about 2500rpm. Went to test my TPS and i got a really high reference voltage. Over the past few years this truck has always read a reference of 4.67-4.70. what is causing the voltage to suddenly be higher? and does this indicate a failure of my TPS?

Wine separated all on their own over time, I would imagine using a hair dryer or heat gun carefully would allow you to seperate the lens.

Not sure what muffler was on the truck, some kind of stock version. To update this thread. I did cut the muffler off. With the muffler removed the truck has the power to pass on the highway and doesn't seem to be losing rpms in hills. Small hesitation at random times now but I think that is due to the open headers basically telling the O2 to riches up the mixture. Any thoughts? Also any recommendations on mufflers, no need to stay stock just want something affordable and with good sound/performance.

Ok so today while driving the engine got much louder all of a sudden. Seemed to actually improve the throttle response slightly and helped me keep speed on hills somewhat. The problem still exists but not to as great an extent. When I arrived home I crawled underneath and low and behold the muffler is beginning to seperate. I plan to order a new one and replace but will remove it tonight. Being I do not have a cat and someone suggested clogged cat, could my muffler have been rusted and clogged up to an extent and if so would it cause similar symptoms as a clogged catalytic?

I tested compression both warm and cold. Both times results were similar with no apparent issues

Can anyone provide a sensor to test or some other tests that could be done before I decide to replace the head? I will be doing work to the truck in preparation for camping this weekend when I get home tonight. I can update tests results then. I am trying to figure this out. I plan to run through the tests in cruisers tips again tonight

Well then I didn't use any toothpaste. I was in a real hurry. Only checked the head mating surfaces with a straight edge. By if the head were warped or cracked wouldn't it run bad all the time? And not just on hard acceleration?

Ok so I was able to perform the compression test and from what I have been reading it doesn't seem like compression is my problem. My results varied among the cylinders which a range of 120-145psi

Also it can't be the cat because I don't have one. And I still didn't have a compression tester but that is the rote I plan to take

I replaced the head gasket because I had a thermostat that failed to open and the engine overheated, I had steam coming out from where the head meets the block and coolant too so I changed it.

Not exactly. Even when it downshifts I have no acceleration till I hit over 3k rpm

Ok I have never used a compression tester before. I will buy one tomorrow and give it a shot

1990 MJ 4.0 aw4 231. So let me start with some back story. This past November the head gasket crapped out. I pulled the head and replaced the gasket and in the process the intake/exhaust gasket. Since then it has an issue. So when driving off the line it feels and operates normally. When at speed or say you approach a hill or need to quickly speed up, when you push further down on the throttle the truck actually drops down 3-400rpms and will have zero acceleration until the top of the hill or I go over 3000rpm. Especially noticeable on the highway. So far I have checked for intake and vac leaks with propane and have found no leaks using this method. I have verified the tps is set properly. New IAC. I adjusted the TV cable. New O2 sensor. EGR tests good. Fuel pump was new in October and still has perfect psi. Thoughts?

I don't have a front end disconnect, this was a 2wd but I used a non disconnect axle for the swap. A have moved the ball already to near the blower motor and it will definitely be staying there instead of going back under the bumper.

Thanks that should help me, I'm just going to redo it from scratch.

I am working through some issues. I feel like this current routing is wrong. Where does the check valve belong? How should I hook up the heater lines?

I guess my question is do I have an 86 or earlier cluster? If so what do I do to get the gauge to read correctly? I see that temp senders are the same but what if this cluster was in a 2.8 or 2.5?

Now that the subject has been brought up I guess I would be more interested in getting the temp gauge reading properly before the speedo. So being I have a 4.0 should I try a sender from an 87 because the earlier models didn't have the 4.0? I am currently using the sender for the 90 4.0.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/49299-aw4-shift-cable-problem/?fromsearch=1

Thanks everyone I do love these gauges. So what am I looking at in terms of making the speedo work? Also you may notice that the temp gauge is different, I'm assuming due to the different motor options. I have a 4.0 now any way to know that it is reading correctly? The needle typically sits around 220 but on my other jeeps the straight up position was more like 200-210

Bought this cluster a couple years back now and I'm finally trying to get my speedo working 2yrs later, better now then never I guess. I have the transfer case from a 95 (231) and this cluster from an unknown year. So I can start figuring out what parts I need can anyone id this cluster?