UnionMJ

UPDATE: Installed a 3/8 -16 nutsert and the front skid plate would not bear the weight so I'm scrapping the project. Makes it a pain anyways to service anything under there and there's no rocks in Iowa. :waving:

I"m really putting it on because it was a cool factory option! :yes: I also scored a transfer case skid too. There's a write up somewhere on here and I'll eventually get to it. I just want all these factory options that mine didn't come with. Can anyone relate? :brows: I put in the factory clock recently lmao.

Thank you for this article. I at least now know the bolt size and what tap to get.

I have a front skid plate off of a Cherokee that I want to put on my Comanche, but after looking at the holes, I noticed that the hole behind the sway bar on the drivers side isn't tapped for threads, and looks like a shallow hole because the steering box is above. How did you guys fix this? How could I fix this, I know I could drill and tap but something that shallow I'm skeptical. Please help!

For a $600 bumper it sure doesn't hold up to $#!& that well. Unless you hit him pretty damn hard, I'm disappointed that the bumper crinkled that much. I was looking at getting something like this, but for the money I'll get something else. :shake:

UPDATE: I haven't done anything new, but it has started every time for now. Thanks for the help! Best page out there! :yes: . :MJ 2: .

When all else fails, do Cruiser's Tips. LOL :cheers:

UPDATE: I cleaned the chassis to engine ground and cleaned out the C101 with some electronics cleaner and a mechanical pencil, that's all I had in the garage. :dunno: Took it on a test drive only to see if it would possibly stall and it didn't. Then when I got it in the garage again, I proceeded to turn it off and on right away and it would start up, but when I went into the house and then back into the garage to start it, it won't now. When I start it, it seems to almost fire once, then after that attempt, it just turns over while the key is still turned. What else can I do? I'm running out of ideas. I will take the CPS out and do cruiser's tip, but I need to test it first. Just have to force one of my sisters to start it while I read the multimeter while holding the leads on the pins. :roll:

I think I will do cruiser's tip of drilling the hole when I take the CPS out after work tomorrow. I will also refresh the engine to chassis ground too. It's the only thing I can think of.

Just put a new cap and rotor on. Runs great when started, but when you turn it off and try to start it again, it doesn't want to. What do you think it is? I'm thinking when I replaced the CPS, there may have been some gunk on it, I don't really remember, so it's getting a low voltage. Anyone agree before I tear it apart again?

UPDATE: So I put in the new ICM and it fires! This is until I turn it off, so I can put my e fan wire back on, so I can let it charge. It's not starting again, but cranking over. Do you think I have a faulty ICM? or There's gunk on the CPS? I'm running out of ideas. Please help!

Good to know it's a joke. :laughin: Keep up the good work! What's your background? Are you just a DIY kind of guy or do you have some experience as a mechanic? Either way it's truly amazing the attention to detail. :bowdown:

I want all the input I can get. I'm really not interested in getting into a piss match with anyone on here. I've purchased a new ICM that I will pickup tomorrow and will install it tomorrow. I can also inspect in the connectors since,as mentioned by you cruiser, there isn't really a good right up for testing it. I plan on deleting the c101 this weekend as well. If that doesn't work, I will clean the ECU connectors. Sound good or am I missing something obvious?

I've refreshed the grounds behind the oil dipstick. I've tested the old CPS, and it was bad, so I got a new one, but I haven't tested it yet, due to a dead battery now. I've done the headlight harness upgrade, new vacuum harness; both sides.

I've had hooked it back up, and you can hear the relay work. It still doesn't start, so I don't think it's a problem. I'm thinking the ICM. I've been told it's rare for them to go out, but it's the last thing I can think of besides redoing/cleaning the C101.

What was I supposed to do? I put in a new ignition switch and it still wouldn't turn off until we cut the yellow wire. I will say some of the wiring is butchered from the PO, but I've been fixing it with waterproof butt connectors since I don't own a soldering gun. That is really the only mod done to the wiring in order for it to shut off. I am tedious when working on the jeep and I have to be as I am going to school as a CNC Machinist. Please, I'm asking for help, not criticism. Thanks

I forgot to mention that, when I did the engine swap to this motor, it had an issue of shutting off. Long story short, I cut the b-latch relay wire or whatever that yellow wire that goes to the ICM and then it would turn off. Is this wire that is cut a possible issue? I don't think so since it has ran fine without that wire connected.

So I'll test the CPS, when I get the battery charged since it has died now. What else should I test and how if you know?

How do I test the ICM?

UPDATE: I have replaced the CPS with a MOPAR one, not that BME bull$#!&, and still not starting. I haven't tested the outcome voltage yet, but I'm thinking already it's something else. Besides the C101, I'm thinking it could be the ICM. Does this sound like the next thing to check/or even just replace? I took the coil out and tested it before and it tested fine and the terminals look good, but maybe it spontaneously wore out and quit working. If I do buy one, you bet it will be MOPAR!

UPDATE: We have fuel pressure in the rail and I hear the fuel pump priming, had the electric fan running full time, so I temporarily disconnected so I could hear it and I can. The problem is no spark. I used a spark tester and checked one of the spark plug wires and the one coming off the coil pack to the distributor and nothing. Here's the catch, the CPS looks like it was recently replaced, so I'm not positive it's that. What do you think? Also there's seems to be some screeching noises coming from the engine compartment as if something is worn. Battery is charged but haven't tested the leads. Please help! Needs to be driveable next week if possible. Thanks.

So before I anticipated leaving for school, I went into the jeep and tried to start it. It turns over but won't start. This is the first time this has occured on this motor. I have the Renix 4.0 with 212k and have no knowledge how many miles are on the fuel pump. I couldn't hear the humming noise when priming the system, so I'm wondering if it's the pump or a relay, resistor, or CPS. I don't remember for sure but I thought the PO told me he's replaced the CPS. Do they just spontaneously go bad? What do I need to check first before buying a $100 fuel pump? Please help, I need to drive it ASAP to college and not miss anymore school days because of the heep. Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: The problem was that my dimmer switch wasn't plugged in, BUT I don't have highbeams. Do I need a new dimmerswitch?

UPDATE: I rewired the taillights and got rid of the trailer light harness from the PO :shake: , and got rid the of the plug in underneath the jeep and spliced everything together. Everything works fine now. Thanks for the help and I hope I can help somebody out. Don't trust the PO is all I got to say. :nuts:

The taillights not turning on with the headlights was. I also read another forum and the PO did jerry-rigged a trailer wiring harness in there.