Nate C

Fantastic info as always! Eagle thanks for explaining the chart / comparing to stock 4.0L. I will track down a 33T speedo gear too. Ok - now I just have to choose some tires and wheels. Any thoughts? basically all street, I like the aggressive look of BF AT's but am ready for something different.

I know this subject has been beaten to death, from reading posts I'm pretty sure I can do what I intend but would like some thoughts/opinions of how it will change the performance and feel of the truck. So here is what I have: originally 87 2.5L with four speed manual shift which means I have 3.55 gears yes? I have since dropped a rebuilt 4.0L in it and put a BA 10/5 with T-case in from a doner. I also have a 1" coil spacer in the front and shackles in the back. I currently run 30" BF AT's on the original wheels. Here is what I want to do: I'd like to get 15x8" wheels and install 31" tires. Right now I'm happy with how it accelerates and I can put it in 5th gear around 50 mph without any bogging. I don't do any wheeling it's just a street / look pretty truck. The questions: Should I get a wheel spacer for this new setup? How will acceleration and 5th gear be effected? what adapter should i get to compensate for the speedo? I've seen the chart Eagle posted, but I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. Can my gears and old tranny handle the 31's I know the motor can, and I should have enough clearance in the wheel wells with the 1" lift. I don't think I'll ever go bigger than 31" I've wanted to do this for 6 years since the rebuild but other things have been sucking up my money and time. If anyone can think anything else that could be an issue please let me know.

Great tips thanks!, I'll tackle it tomorrow; I need a break from working on it. I need to post some updated pics - haven't been on here much since the re-build in 09'

Anyone know the torque specs for putting one of these back on? Any tips for installing one? I have the puller tool can that also be used to re-install?

From the 1991 FSM: "Timing cover: 62 in-lbs. Oil pan: 7 ft-lbs for small bolts and 11 ft-lbs for large bolts Valve cover: 55 in-lbs. As long as you don't rotate the engine without the timing chain installed the timing will not change. I would strongly recommend getting a harmonic balancer installation tool to install the new HB (or a longer 1/2-20 bolt). Don't use the crank bolt to pull it on or you run the risk of wiping the threads from the crankshaft snout, crank bolt or both. Otherwise it's a simple R&R job. Torque spec is 80 ft-lbs for the crank bolt. Are you also replacing the timing chain? If not it might be a good "while you're in there" thing." *** I'm in the middle of it right now,.... do you know the torque for the water pump and other pullies? Picked up some new may as swap those out while I'm in there. ***

Awesome! thanks, dropped a new/rebuilt motor in it 5 years ago so the timing chain is good to go. Should have replaced the chain cover and that doughnut gasket back then. I think that's where my problem is. I'll head to Auto Zone in the morning to grab that tool, Ha yeah I just picked up an inch pound wrench for this job, should come in handy.

Anyone know torque specs on the following: Timing chain cover Oil Pan valve cover Got some fel-pro gaskets and hope to get these installed this weekend. I think the Valve cover is 55 inch pounds,... Also replacing the harmonic balancer and chain cover, I'll get the puller tool for the balancer. Anything special I need to know or look out for on this job? I'm not going to mess up the timing am I?

Checked out the vent lines and air box, looks clean; I like the idea of bigger lines though,.... looks like i'm doing some gasket replacing this weekend. You live in an awesome part of the country, you're lucky. I miss my time out West. Cool you're a real Native! My Great Grandma was half Abnaki, The State recognizes the tribe but the Feds don't - total BS. they played a huge roll in Northeast history. There are a few people of the Iroquois confederacy here too, but they're mostly in New York.

Thanks for the tips, where are the vent lines I'm looking for? Where in Montana are you? I spent some time in Bozeman when I was younger - fun town!

I have a leak that appears to be coming from the front of the oil pan, what beside that would cause a leak in the front? Oil pump gasket maybe? The straight 6 looks like it slants to the back, so most leaks would accumulate there,.... this is clearly dripping up front though. I don't want to tear into the pan gasket to discover it's something else. Any thoughts/ ideas are appreciated.

I seem to have lost all my older posts and pics, is there an archive I can retive them from?

Wow, that will keep me busy for a while, thanks the detailed writeup!

Hi all, I'm having problems with my MJ reving real high on start up. I've checked and lubbed the throtle cable and all other connections, I've also sprayed the air intake/butterfly valve with air intake cleaner. No luck as of yet, I can get it to stop if I shut it down then re-start, but that does not work every time. Also I can't get my 4x4 light to shut off, I know the 4wheel drive is not engaged because I don't feel the tugging in tight turns. Whats weird is if I let the engine bog a bit before down shifting the light will turn off for a second or two?? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks for the offer, it sounds like a good deal, unfortunately I've got a short bed to.

Ah yes, thanks for helping me clarify Eagle. It is just the gravel guard I'm looking to find a replacement for. I plan on painting the exterior of the new tank in POR 15 to help protect against rust, but I would like an extra layer of protection also. Protection from something like a rock from my tire tread hitting the tank at 70mph and poking a hole in it. A factory gravel guard would be great but I'm open to alternatives, maybe just a layer of brushable seamseal or rubberized undercoating would be protection enough.

:rotf: Always nice to meet another Moxie fan. Few people enjoy it's "unique" taste these days. It is an acquired taste, I admit I had to mix a lot of Vodka in at first; but now I can slam it right out of the can.

I am changeing out my fuel tank (current one leaks), I don't have the factory skid plate. I don't wheel so do I really need it? If so where could I get one or is there something I could substitute for it?

Hi all, I have a new fuel tank but I'm having a hard time finding a skid plate to protect it. I don't wheel, so I wouldn't need anything bomb proof. Something to keep rouge highway rocks and such from putting a hole in the bottom. I suspect a used factory plate would be fine, I'm open to alternatives to. thanks, -Nate

Hoping someone will have these, I replaced my pump/sending unit but jacked the opening in the tank where the gasket and lock ring hold the pump in. Now It won't seal,.... I can only fill the truck a little over half way before it dumps all over. They are big items but am hoping someone is willing to ship.

Thanks Pete for coordinating all of this! I'm sure it's a logistical headache. I'll take a couple Shirts: Shirt 1: T-Shirt Desert Tan Lettering Navy - color 032 Size- Large Shirt 2: Long-Sleeve Desert Tan Lettering Black - Color 036 Size - Extra Large I'll pay via PayPal, thanks again Pete and all others helping with this. :cheers:

Thanks for the tips; what do you think about cutting off the booster push rod ends and welding in the original from my 87'? As long as it's straight and the correct length,.... 5 and 1/4" I think it should work right?

Need some help; I'm in the middle of the Brake Booster / Master Cyl upgrade. Putting in a 96' Brake Booster in place of the smaller 87' Drilled out the hole to 9/16th and ground the 96' pedal rod flat so the old switch would fit on it. The lights won't come on consistently. We used all the bushings and spacers off the 87' is there something I'm missing or something I need to take out?

Yours is 2wd, his is 4wd. All Jeep NP 231s have a 27 spline output, there won't be any yoke issues. For the output shaft... that's between the trans and T-case. Pukeys have a 21 spline output, AX-15's have a 23 spline output. Your current T-case will not bolt up to an AX-15. If you get the trans from the 96, you'll need the pilot bushing from a 74 CJ with a 304. Pukey and AX-15 are the same length, so there won't be any need for new driveshafts. Great info. Thanks all, that answers my big questions. I'll search the write ups for the details and procedures for the swap.

:rotf: Riot! I saw that old bus driving around in the Old North End last Summer. What a heap! I don't know what holds it together. They do make some fine dogs though. It's parked a couple blocks down from my place for the Winter,.... eight foot snow banks have it boxed in right now.