michaelgoesrawr

Chains suck. Over all, heavy and hard to work with. They rust too. Don't use them for anything but tying down loads on a trailer. A snatch strap takes the kinetic energy of a pulling vehicle and uses it to un-stick a stuck vehicle without all of that jarring sudden stopping a tow strap produces. Snatch straps are meant to stretch for this reason. Do not use for towing. At all. Tow straps don't stretch and are hard on pulling vehicles and the vehicles being pulled when the slack is taken up. Use them for towing. They are light weight and easy to work with. Always get a shackle that has the working load stamped into them. Make sure it is far more than you Jeep weighs. Tow hooks are meh. They work in a pinch, I have some on my YJ, but they are not my preferred method because the straps can slip off of them. Winching is not a big deal if you do it safely. More brains than anything really. Don't be afraid to buy a new front bumper with shackle mounts and a winch plate. It'll be good for you because you can self recover. Always throw a heavy jacket over the middle of the winch line. If it breaks, the weight will stop the line from shooting very far. If you're using a steel line with a hook, open your hood just in-case something comes loose. Here are two companies that I plan to buy from. I haven't heard anything bad about them. http://www.vikingoffroad.com/ http://winchline.com/ If I were you, mudding by myself and all. I would get a bumper and winch with synthetic line, a tree saver(wraps around a tree so your cable doesn't hurt it), a hand full of quality shackles and snatch blocks as well as a tow strap and snatch strap. You'll always be able to get yourself out. If you mud in places that are far from trees and anchor points, I'd also look into a anchor too. http://www.justjeeps.com/product.php?productid=27786

Sorry guys. Ended up being the TRE's and the steering stabilizer, as well as three out of balanced tires and a need for an overall alignment. I managed to get it pretty close to 1/16" toe out after I replaced the TRE's but I can only do so much with a tape measure. Yeah I read about that after I did it. I feel confident that they are not damaged though, because new TREs significantly helped. Any opinions on if it's worth replacing the stock CA bushings or should aftermarket ones be on the list of "to get" parts when time/money allows? What kinda Jeep? - Lifted? - Stock? - What? - Sometimes makes a dif ya know - - - Search is a good tool - Tons of info/opinions - - - DW has been beat to death/discussed/cussed O&O a million here & NAXJA - - Search is a good tool - - - Original owner? 2nd - 3rd? - - - any indication of a wreck? - - - Thrust angle is often overlooked & worn CA bushings on one side can be part of DW-same as misaligned axles - - - Lots of good help/expertise here but without knowing what you're/we're dealing with the best you can hope for is the shot in the dark type response - - - Good luck :thumbsup: . I guess I should put the Jeep info in my sig. I'm used to the profiles containing the information like on JeepForum. Didn't think about adding it in my post at the time. Yes, I have searched. I'm fairly versed in YJ information and proper forum procedure. However, coils are all new to me and my searches weren't yielding anything different that could help me narrow down the problem. I spend a good 20 minutes on how to check if TRE's were bad and came up with nothing. And everything in regards to DW really only mentioned the track/panhard bar as a major contributor. In terms of the CA bushings, I only had one person, aside from the people in this thread tell me that was the cause of theirs. I appreciate the help none the less and will update the original post with the vehicle information and well as add it to my sig. The Comanche section on JF is pretty dead so I think i'll be here more often learning as much as I can about the trucks. Thanks guys!

After I successfully replaced the RMS, oil pan gasket and starter, the Jeep developed a horrible shake anywhere from 45MPH+. We took it to the shop and all they suggested was a Steering dampener and and alignment. Knowing that wouldn't solve it, I looked into the track bar and found that they TRE had play in it. Thinking that was the cause I ordered a Moog Problem solver stock replacement from Rock Auto and replaced it. Well, that didn't fix the problem. I rotated the tires thinking one of the front would be unbalanced. It helped a little but didn't solve the problem. Now I can feel the steering go back and forth while I hold the wheel straight and true. Things I have done: -New track bar. -Looked over all the tres and from what I can tell they are all fine. -Aired the tires to 34 psi and rotated them from to back. -Ball joints are good. No movement when the tires are grabbed at 12 and 6. Now folks, could bad control arm bushings be the cause of this? When I dropped the oil pan, I had to remove the two Uppers in order to let the axle drop far enough to lower the pan. When I tightened the two uppers, I'm fairly sure the Jeep was still on stands meaning the bushings had to fight the force of the Jeep going to ride height. And on the flip side, the lower bushings had to fight the weight of the axle dropping farther then normal droop. The steering box has a leak around the pitman arm. Is this just a bad seal or could the box be going bad also attributing to my horrible shake problem? Edit: Jeep information. -1988 Comanche. Base. 4.0 4x4 -Automatic trans(have not looked into which one. Figure its an AW4 with comfort option) with what i'd assume to be an NP 231 -Stock suspension, steering, and everything else under the sun.

Alright guys, Sorry for the new thread but I tried searching and I couldn't yield any results. I changed the RMS and Oil pan gasket yesterday (what a PITA) but I didn't try to start it being I wanted to let the RTV set fully. I just power washed it so I could make sure there was no leaks. I go to start it and I only get one "click" or "thump" when I turn the key. I cleaned the battery connections and whacked the starter but it's still a no go. Is this a water in a place where water shouldn't be situation? I did my best not to get the distributor but there are those group of wires towards the firewall that got wet. I'll update my profile(if that's possible) after this post. I gotta get this beat up and going for work tomorrow morning. Edit: Couldn't find Jeep information. Edit 2: Got it figured out. It ended up being the starter after all. The plastic cap that holds the studs on the solenoid was moving out towards the front of the Jeep which wasn't allowing the starter to do its job. 1988. 4.0 auto trans Stock running gear