skel130

You can check the fuel pump's output under the hood. The fuel rail has a Schrader valve that you can hook a fuel pressure gauge upto. I don't know the exact spec, but I'm sure your chilton's or hayne's manual has it. Next time it doesn't start, check spark under the hood. My old man always explain an engine as needing 3 things: fuel, air, and spark. Narrow that sucker down. If your fuel pressure is fine, then don't bother with fuelpump/filter/injectors. Spark is my suspect.

I mean the CB radio. Not like the stereo.

The thing was ripped (at the bottom) when i got it, so it just falls down to the transmission hump. Not really an issue as it still looks half decent, so I've never really cared enough to replace it. I've got bigger fish to fry than that. All of the components for mounting the sucker are firestik, and so far I like it. The quick disconnect is really awesome (smooth barrel looking part under the spring) as I park in a garage for school during the week, and I can just pull that puppy right off. In hindsight, I'd have gotten the thicker mounting bracket as the antenna is juuuuust barely heavy to make me worry about it bending a bit. I particularly like where I put the CB, as it's out of the way, and the wiring is really easy from the dash, and you can feed the antenna cable through a plugged hole behind the bench, and along the DS floor trim, under the carpet beneath the pedals, and into the radio. No wires really show.

Firestik is a good brand. Made in the USA, and I've never heard of any issues with their products/had any problems. Here's how I did mine (pardon the mess/bad pics)

I have this antenna on my rig, I'll try to go snap some pics if I can. http://www.amazon.com/Firestick-II-feet-Tunable-Tip/dp/B00317HUWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1383077105&sr=8-2&keywords=firestik From what I understand, no ground antennas don't get near as much range compared to normal CB antennas.

I've had this issue, and it had to do with my fusebox melting due to the clutch master leaking. Try this: Take out the fuse that goes to the brake lights, and bend the end of the spades to a very slight 'v' shape on both sides. Would look sorta like this from the end [v__v] . If your fuse box has suffered any damage, the terminals can become loose and not make a connection. None of my fuses showed any damage, but the box was melting from behind. You can also use a jumper to test the circuit, going to a known good positive connection.

I can say the cheap one from amazon works great. 2 of those will do a whole truck (all the stripes).

I recently changed to gear oil in my truck, and like many before me, struggled to find a tool to remove the 5/16 square hole plugs. At a tool store, when attempting to find a tool to use, I stumbled upon the best solution I've heard of yet. I present to you.............. The 5/16th keystock. Cut a 2-3 inch piece, and use a 5/16 box wrench. Presto, open without having to A) Ruin a good 3/8 extension, or B) Worry about rounding the hole with a mis-ground extension. Looky here: https://www.acehomecenters.net/products/key-stock-sq5-16x12-red%7C54254.html Even ACE carries it. Wasn't sure where to put this little revelation, but hopefully someone finds this useful.

Speedo wobble is most often caused by the speedo cable being broken off at one end, or worn out. Check the cable (especially behind the dash) and make sure the 'end' that clips onto the cluster is attached to the outside of the cable.

Also, any tips on brands for new shocks if I go that route, or Coil/leaf springs (the darn truck likes to lean left)

Awesome. Thanks for all the advice. I'm not quite sure the pros/cons of using the JK shocks vs just getting longer new shocks. I took a peek on my local craigslist and didn't see anything, so that might decide for me ;) Rim/Tire wise, I've not decided. I have the stock combo (I think) which is 235/70/15 I believe. I might just leave those for a while, and then just see what pops up cheap on the old craigslist. Like I said, I don't exactly do too much with the truck, so the lift is solely for cosmetic purposes. I might lift it, and take one look at the wheels and laugh at how small they are and be forced to get bigger ones.

I'd be interested in knowing what it takes to make those work. I'm also not opposed to buying a set of new shocks, but suspensions are kind of a mystery to me, as I've never really messed with it before (I always liked sports cars ;) )

Arizona Truck :) It's actually pretty free of the cancer. Any recommendations on brands for suspension stuff? Just best bang for the buck kinda thing. Thanks a million though for the links.

Oh, and a quick question I hope has a good answer: What is the best cheap roll bar to add to a Comanche (short bed)? I know they aren't that useful, but I think: A) They look good, and B) While not that effective, if my truck were to roll, I'll take the extra metal that might be just enough to stop the roof from breaking my neck.

Alright, I know this question has been asked a million times, and I've tried to read through most of the threads regarding lifts. Here's what I've got: 1 -1988 Jeep Comanche (Pioneer, Olympic Edition) 2x4 4.0L 5 speed, Bone stock. 1 -fairly competent human being Here's what I'd like: 1 -Jeep Comanche that sits ~2" higher. 1 -fairly competent human being with a sense of accomplishment and retaining all 10 fingers, as well as most of his blood. I'm really looking for off the shelf parts that will just bolt on. I don't have access to a welder, and my metal working tools are very limited. The truck has what looks to be the original suspension on it, and I'd like to do shocks, springs and the like in the process. I don't off road, and the truck mostly putts around town, back and forth to college, and to the lake (with a jet ski). If some of you kind souls wouldn't mind actually just linking the parts I would need, I'd pretty much love ya'll forever. More than I do. Being a college student, I'd like to also retain my money, but I don't have time to pull shackles and the like from junk yards. I've never done a lift on a vehicle, so I'm nervous to attempt it, but I know I can do it. tl;dr: Cheap is good, but want new parts that bolt on easy. Shocks and springs would be great, and mainly care about ride quality, and only tow ~1500 on rare occasions, but when I do, it's on the highway.