daking

Thanks, I'll check that today

Thanks, there is fuel pressure in the fuel rail. I'll hook up a gauge to test the PSI. Manual says ~39psi or so, does not feel like that much PSI when I release the valve.. speaking of relays, does anyone know what the 4 relays on the passenger side, near the coil are for? thanks

Thanks, I'll connect it tomorrow. It still won't start. I put on new plugs, wires, cap, coil, and rotor. It cranks but won't fire up. What else could cause this? thanks

Thanks, do you think it won't start if there is no vacuum on the MAP sensor? It shows the line going to the TB, but I can't see an open vacuum hole.. anyone got a real picture of it connected? thanks

I have an '87 Jeep with a 4.0 I6 engine. I just had the clutch replaced. They also replaced the crank sensor. We put gas in after we picked it up from transmission shop. Jeep Drove ok. It had a rough idle. The engine would stall sometimes when driving during the day. I strong "burning" smell, plastic or electric,, not sure. well, later that day it would not start. It cranks, but will not start. Checked for spark at coil, it was weak, so I replaced the coil. Checked for fuel, the shader valve on the fuel rail had pressure. Checked electrical connections. I found a peace of vacuum hose just laying on the engine, I figured out later it goes to the MAP sensor on the firewall. But the solid vacuum hose was broken, and I have no idea where it supposed to go. Someone told me it won't start if there is no vacuum on the MAP sensor.. any ideas on what to look for? Thanks

That sounds good, so whats the link...? Thanks :)

So I was working on the jeep today, cleaning the engine. I noticed one injector looked really clean. After running engine, I noted it was leaking. I studied the other injectors, and a couple of them leaking near the intake side. So, I go to get some new seals. The seal kit had 12 round donut seals. The injectors had 1 round donut seal, and one flat round seal on the fuel rail. I went ahead and used replaced all the seals with the round donut seals, It was hard to get the injectors back into the fuel rail, but I got em in. So, i go to start the engine, and original leaky injector, is now spraying fuel everywhere. Do these injectors "Split" open? I'm going to just replace all the injectors. Is precision fuel injectors on EBAY good?

Nice :)

The caliper sliders are 5mm or 6mm Allen bolts. To change the pads on a 2WD first use a C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons slightly, remove the two sliding rods, then slide the caliper off the rotor. To remove the pads, remove the two anti-squeal clips on the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different; one is inboard and the other is outboard, so mark them. Compare the brake pad material shape with the new ones so they don't get reversed. They WILL go in reversed and you WILL be plagued with squealing. Ask me how I know. :oops: Yep, there is an Allen head inside those shafts. I Should be good now.. Thanks man,.

That makes sense, thats how it is on other disk brake setups. These rods looks look hollow.. let me look into them.......

I have a 4X2 :( I'll convert it to a 4X4 soon Anyway, there is ONLY 2 bolts on the whole damn thing, it looks like a bracket and caliper. the caliper is on a set of sliding rods. Ill have a video in a few..... This is what I'm looking at..

I compressed the piston already. I wonder If i Did take the bracket and caliper off... let me go look..

So, I need to change my breaks & Rotors. I've removed the caliper, and already replaced the rotors & barrings. For the life of me, I can't get the old pads out of the caliper. It won't open far enough to pass out the pads. I can slide it open and close (the floating part) Anyone have any video's, diagrams or pictures of this? Thanks

Ok, here is what I figured out. My JEEP has always had a vibration, I did ignore it. I Figured when the engine blew, that I would just put a stroker in. (I use the jeep for work, but it is a toy, and money I have. I put a 550+HP HEMI in my RAM, and I'm having a 520Ci monster built for my 79' PowerWagon, I have lofty goals for this jeep) any way, on the Vibration, the Crank pulley / Dampener must have been on its way out. It most likely wobbled or walked enough to cause the belt to pop off. I continued to drive home, when the dampener part of the pulley fell off. I heard the bang, I thought it was a hose, but turned out the dampener pulley hit under the jeep. It was at that point the engine actually ran smooth, cause the engine was now running real nice, I chose to limp it home. Got home, saw steam shooting out of the radiator, I was hoping there was a release valve there, no luck. I Popped the radiator. So, I replaced the crank pulley, Installed a new fan belt, and installed a new radiator. The jeep now drives super smooth, everything seems fine so far. I'll Commission the construction of a 4.0 Stroker motor in a few months for my jeep.

found my problem, the outer ring of the crank pulley is gone... All I have is the hub, I lost my ring, just like frodo... Recommend fix?

Ok I checked the oil, it looks good. Looks like the broken belt was captured by a pulley and whipped around, it smashed a fan shroud. That may have been the “Bang” I heard. After removing some items, I inspected the radiator where it was spewing steam. I thought I would find a relief valve, but I saw nothing like that, so I'm sure I popped the radiator. I installed a new belt, but something is odd.. According to the belt diagram: the “ribbed” side of the goes around the crank, this is odd cause the crank is smooth. And I can’t get the belt tight, the PS pump is as far as it will go, and belt is just a bit loose. Is there supposed to be a grove pulley around the crank? If the crank is supposed to have groves, then that part of the crank pulley fell off, and that would have been the bang sound I heard.

not yet, it was late when i got home.. I just remembered, the water hoses had pressure. If the block cracked, there would be no pressure in the hoses, right? I was going to build a nice 4.0 Stroker for this truck, later. I may be doing a stoker install sooner...

So, I'm driving my truck, and my fan belt came off. I knew the belt came off cause the "BATT" light came on, and I lost power steering. Because I was close to home I chose to drive it home. steam started to come out of the hood, then water. Shortly after that a loud "BANG", engine still was running smooth. So I thought I popped a radiator hose. I did coast as much as I could. When I got home, I opened the hood and found the broken belt. Then I looked for a popped hose, they all looked good. There was steam coming out of the radiator (near a hose), may have cracked that. What has me worried is, that loud BANG,(I thought it was a hose) now I wonder if that was a water passage that broke open.. What do you all think? Oh, this is on my classic JEEP Truck, its a I6 4.0L

can someone at least explain what it was? be a good story teller too...:)

Ok, mine was broke too. I really liked your write up. I used a drill to pop the rivets on mine though, really quick. I usually have problems popping rivets. I got a question, what is holding your tire up? In those pictures the U bolt is not large enough to stop the tire. I must be visually missing something here.. I used a large P bolt. It’s about 5in long, diameter of a wheel stud. I connected it through one of the 5 bolt holes on the Rim. But I would like it centered, I suppose a large U bolt would work, I just can’t figure out how your U bolt works.

Has anyone mixed a cover with a tool box? I have a tool box, and would like to cover up the rest of the bed.

This truck has absolutely no rust, except on those rims, and I just put some clean shiny rims and tires on. it was just panted 2 weeks ago, and has new front grill, new side glass, new plastic parts on outside, all new lights (except tail lights). From the outside, the truck looks new. From what I can tell, the original owner was in Arizona, so this jeep was in good climates for most of its 20 year life. It’s a standard (not sure on what transmission, it’s a 5 speed). It has a 4.0 inline 6, and looks good in the engine bay, very little oil and grime. The engine pulls real hard; I’m quite impressed with the 4.0. This little truck drives great, I mean it’s got its quarks, but damn for a 20 year old truck with over 250,000 miles, it drives great!. And what’s really cool, its unique and rare. I have yet to see another on the road in my parts. It’s a great looking design, I’m really surprised more wore not built. I originally got this truck to pick up my HEMI engine, and use it for a few weeks for service calls, till my other truck was ready. I have decided to keep this JEEP as part of my fleet, and I’m going to build it up. First major mod is conversion to 4X4, then a stroked 4.0, and so on. You all know how it starts, add a $2.00 cup holder, then a year later you got $12,000 ~ $20,000 spent. : ) thanks all.

Do you use AVG Antivirus? If so, uninstall it from safemode. And test. If it works, download the newest version of AVG and reinstall. If you have a “Dell” or original XP CD, then as said above, do a “Dirty Install”, or “Repair”. Boot from CD and choose the second repair option during the install. No user data loss will occur. As long as you have a valid XP Key, the DELL XP CD will work on any brand of computer, so if you can borrow a CD that may help. The DCOM errors are almost always related to tool bars in internet explorer, usually the “Google Tool Bar”, “Yahoo Tool Bar”, and “AVG Tool Bar”, but I’ve seen it caused by other tool bars too. Uninstall the offending tool bars, and reinstall if you wish. (this is NOT causing you current issue, though...)

It’s a 6.4 (392HEMI) 525~550HP. All foraged internals, Stage 3 Ported and polished heads, ATI Pulley, blue printed and balanced with in 1 gram, and the other stuff. The engine is going in that black RAM in the picture. I compete in Mud Bogs, Sand Drags and ¼ mile racing, with the same truck. I’ve commissioned the construction of a second 392 engine as a spare for the first. I have 2 fully built transmissions and 2 transfer cases already too. My plans for this little Jeep truck have expanded. I plan on converting it to 4X4 and getting a built 4.XX stroker for it too. A little lift 4” ~ 6” or so. These Comanche trucks are inexpensive to work on, and are unique. I love the power of the current 4.0, this little truck can haul. I like this site, for all the info it has, and all the very knowledgeable users. I’m still learning and researching about this little truck and all that can be done with it. I’m thinking of a 4X4 Pre runner design. And I may compete with it in the sanddrags too, in the 6cyl class AND the V8 class. who knows, maybe my spare 392 my find its way into this comanche.... Here are some pics of the engine and me racing. some videos http://media.putfile.com/Sanddrags http://media.putfile.com/sanddrag http://media.putfile.com/boogie44 http://media.putfile.com/SRT10-Vs-Hemi-4X4-Truck

If it boots in safemode then it may be a faulty driver or auto run program. Disconnect all un needed devices, you only need KB, Mouse and monitor, disconnect ALL USB devices (PRINTERS for sure) Check the event viewer for “disk error”. Right click “my computer”, select “manage” , click event log, then “system” Run “MSCONFIG” on the “General” tab select “Diagnostic Startup”, click apply and try to reboot to normal mode. If it boots okay, then something in your start up is faulty. Was a Service pack installed recently? When you ran CHKDSK did you add the “/r” switch? If not, then re run “chkdsk /r”