SuicidalPenguin

They look like my tires and I got through mud fine :dunno: They didn't agree with slippery slopes though.

H2's suck all around and the only reason I like the H1's is the look. If i had one i'd put the 6.6L DuraMax engine and let 'er rip. I think Xtreme4x4 might have done something like that, i don't remember.

Empty Post

i think i've seen this one before somewhere. Like the color. Only thing is... would you want to take it 'anywhere'?

thanks CW. I realized it's a topic that has been beaten to death, although all the writeups or threads i've seen it always emphasizes so much on the trackbar that i don't find alot of it useful. I drove the hour and a half highway trip to my dad's, no problems. Put in the rollcage and stuff then the 2" coils, and on the hour and a half trip home, i almost ended up in the ditch because of the deathwobble.

I've heard everysay that the trackbar is usually the leading cause of deathwobble. What makes the trackbar cause it? Is it just loose bolts/bad bushings, or is it the pull on the axle after lifting? I'm asking this because i didn't have deathwobble, but when i put 2" coil spacers in and drove it the day after I had it (yes, i did get it aligned). I've since been under there, and the bushing looks fine, the bolts are nice and tight. I just don't think the trackbar's the culprite. What can change in 2" that can cause it? Is it possible that the driveshafts angle's are too steep causing it to vibrate into a deathwobble? FYI, my shocks and steering stabilizer look pretty beat up.. if that makes a difference.

Hey. Just wondering what size relay i should use to wire the aux elec fan to a switch.

Sure go ahead. It's not an original design or anything, just made it cause i've seen 2 roll outta a local shop that i liked.

I don't think we're that crazy! I've never been to manitoba before... i don't want to endure the drive through saskatchewan. Have fun though.

I could check for a zip tie, i noticed a couple down there today. Maybe one is scraping it. Don't know where exactly, but it's definatly from front/below cab.

Yeah, found it in a pinch. The one was definatly the temp sender. I couldn't find the other, but it wouldn't start with out it so i went all around the engine bay until i found 2 3-prongs, and on first try got them right and it started. The exhaust manifold was smoking at first (just burning stuff of i guess) but now it runs all good. One thing though, when I accelerate there's a click that speed's up and slow's down with the rpm's. Any ideas, anything i should worry about? You can hear it if nothing else is going on, radio and talking drowns it out.

Another question that sorta relates to this whole thing. There's two things i can't find out where they go. They both come out of the wiring near the last (closest to firewall) injector. I got the 2 prong plugged in, but there's also a 3-prong one there too. Also beside it is what looks like the temp gauge sender but it doesn't fit snug onto it, it's kinda loose. Can anyone identify these two?

the temp switch only affects the aux elec fan, correct? So the mechanical fan (or whatever) that runs off of the belt is still gonna work like it always did?

I got everything i need to do this, at least i thought until i read this So, does that mean by swaping the radiator without doing the thermoswitch thing the fan will never come on automatically? I only have the one fan, and it's not electric. What does it mean for me?

The Ford 9" i don't have money for The radiator i just pulled out yesterday

Damn codes and crap. I hate photobucket, it hates me.

Alright, since i got rained out today i decided to upload some pictures.

thanks for all the help 87manche. All i got done today was draining and removing the radiator and i labelled and unplugged the majority of stuff. I also started to take off the valve cover, but found a single bolt way at the back that i can't get a socket or wrench onto. Any tricks? It's the closest one to the firewall.

Just need to know something for tomorrow when i hit the parts store. On the closed to open cooling swap, will the 89 premoulded rad hoses fit, or is the 92's i need or neither?

Well... bought another haynes. Looks like most everything is there, but i still might have a few questions later on. I have a radiator coming in that i pick up Monday so i'll start this whole project early next week.

I had a Haynes that started falling apart awhile back, then I lost it. Is Chiltons any better of a manual, or are they pretty much the same?

Eagle is right on monroe's site. Go to http://catalog.tenneco.com/monroe/eCatalog.do and select your truck to find a part number for the shock. http://www.monroe.com/catalog_lookup/oc ... ppinfo.asp is the page that'll give you all the info on mounting and lengths.

How many of the bolts (if any) do i need take out to lift the whole combo?

It's time to fix all the problems with my truck while i got the time... only problem is I don't know where to start on the headgasket and just need to know exactly what i need to do it and what i need to remove. I'm guessing somewhere along the lines of manifolds valve cover, rocker arms, pushrods(?), possibly the power steering(?). Anything i'm missing? Am i gonna need gaskets all around (valve cover, head, exhaust mani and intake mani)? Thanks for any help guys, this Jeep gets worse and worse and i want to keep it alive. ~Kyle PS. Also, since i need a new rad and such, would it be easier to do it at the same time? Anything else that probably should be checked or replaced while i'm in there?

Yep. And yet our trucks aren't aloud on it for environment sake.