rworks

OK, Trying to do the TPS thing. Got the instructions that were posted here and not getting the results I need. 87 MJ Auto (actually the computer and sensors are all 87 Auto. The engine is an 01 and the AW4 is a 94) Ran well until about 3 weeks ago. I'm getting 4.84 - 4.85 V on the input side. (Yes, I've checked/cleaned the grounds and everything. 4.85 is the best I'm gonna get) When I change the leads to get the output side, I get 4.04 - 4.05 V. But the part I can't figure out is that no matter how far I adjust the TPS the volts never change. Full deflection right, left, up or down the voltage stays at 4.04. Moving the little arm and it stays at 4.04. Its a brand new TPS. Right out of the box and everything. Why isn't the voltage changing? Yes, I searched. Didn't see anything that looked like this.

The plastic bit I was talking about sits between the TPS and the throttle body. Here's a pic of it: Also, I was looking at my setup and its obvious to me now that I don't have the stock deal going. My MJ is an '87 but the engine is from a 01 Grand Cherokee. The TPS is mounted on the firewall side of the throttle body (vice the radiator side where the RENIX would be) and the throttle body appears to be a 91+. The only thing this appears to affect is the placement of the TPS and it looks to me like the little plastic bit I was talking about is jury-rigged to fit, given that the 91+ doesn't use the same TPS as the 90-.

OK, did a search and got the "connect tab A to slot B" instructions on how to check the TPS. Thats the easy part. I'm having some issues actually checking the voltages. Should I be stripping insulation off the wires? Poke the probes into the back side of the connector? Which works best for you guys? And is there a way to get rid of the darn TPS? The design is just poor. Last question. When I took the old TPS off the throttle body, there are two other parts that fit into the throttle body. One is a plastic gasket thing and the other is a plastic flange of some sort. The flange bit looks a little old and worn. Where can I get the part numbers for them?

OK, I know the 4.0L takes a little time to heat up, but this is ridiculous. It was about 45-50 degrees out yesterday and I drove 30 miles at about 50mph one way and then 30 miles back home. In that whole time, the temp gauge never got above 120. I know its not the temp sensor, since a) its 3 months old and B) it sure seems to work fine when its 80+ out. So is there a problem here or what?

The brackets on the bench seat are the same as the ones for the buckets. You just have to drill out some rivets to get them off. Those racing buckets look nice, but getting them to work with the original brackets looks like a pain. When I replaced the bench in my 87 MJ, I removed the old brackets and took the front seats from a 2-door Cherokee. You drill off the Cherokee brackets and bolt the Comanche brackets into the same holes. Fairly easy, and the seats were $20. Had a local upholstery shop match the colors and fix them up for $100 a seat. They fit fine, use the same sliders, are stock height and the color matches. And cheaper too. My opinion is that unless you really *need* racing seats, just go the Cherokee seat route.

My tailgate handle is a lttle rusty - OK, a lot rusty - and I'd like to take it off to fix it up. Got the three bolts off the tailgate but can't quite figure out how to get the handle out. Any tricks to this?

I would remove the IAC again and clean the piss out of it. Also remove the throttle body and clean the hole where the IAC sits. I used Gunscrubber to clean the throttle body, but brake cleaner would work too.

Book, I've got a spare instrument cluster if you still need one. I bought 2 for my 87 MJ (just in case 1 was bad) and now I'm stuck with one.