Timmaay

What are the actual benefits of running a high capacity oil filter? More oil in the system? Greater dirt holding capacity? Seems with regular oil change intervals a bigger filter is not necessary. :dunno:

How long is the temp lead? Long enough to go from the dash to say, the front bumper?

Or the gauge could be reading low...But you still have a good bit of variance between cylinders anyhow.

I had this same problem too. My solution was to add a very thin spacer between the end of the rod and the switch. I used a thin strip of a soup can, just fold the edges around the ends of the switch and it will stay put. My brake lights come on with the slightest touch of the pedal.

Welcome to the site! Here is a link to a site with a diagram of the front end parts and how to do a diy alignment too. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html As far as searching goes I like to use just a few key words only. Such as "tow points" Then in the top right corner there is a box that allows you to search for something else within the results to further narrow down your search. Also feel free to post up some pictures and an introduction in the "introduce your comanche thread" viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15

I cleaned up the axle, changed the fluid, and made sure that the vent was clear (it was). I'll keep an eye out for potential leaks, but I think that it's good to go for a while. Thanks guys.

It has to be the pinion seal or the cover gasket. There are no seals in the axles at the housing -- the axle seals are at the outer ends, at the hubs. The outer ends on both sides in your photo are dry. It's certainly not the pinion seal, that entire area is completely dry and grease free. The axle tubes are pressed into the housing and welded all the way around right? So it's not possible to be leaking there correct?

Thanks for the replies guys. The pinion seal is totally dry, no seepage at all. Any other ideas?

I want to replace the fluid in the diff and since it's open I might as well and try to fix this leak. Which seal(s) do you guys think are leaking in this picture? Yes I know the load sensing rod is in the wrong position. This pic is old.

:bowdown: :bowdown: We need more pictures!!

So I got the replacement booster in and the brakes are silent! And I got the brake lights to be very sensitive :thumbsup: They come on with the slightest touch of the pedal. :D I really hope I don't have to do that again any time soon. :thwak: You seriously have to be a freakin contortionist to work on anything under the dash like that.

Ehh I was afraid you guys might say that. Now I need to shop for a replacement and then modify the rod, again. :wall:

I found the problem but I don't know why it's doing what it's doing. What's happening is that when you step on the brake pedal with a little force and then mash it real quick the booster honks just like a goose! What seems to be going on is that the two halves of the booster are separating a little bit when you apply the extra force. You can see the master cylinder get pushed out. I'm not sure if it's the two metal halves of the booster sliding by each other causing the noise or if it's the rubber diaphragm vibrating. The two halves are not supposed to move are they?? A couple tack welds should solve the problem right?

I have now determined that the noise is in fact not coming from under the dash but from the booster or master cylinder itself. The noise which sounds more like a honk than a squeak when you listen to it with the hood open.

Ok I'll give that a shot. Thanks.

Return spring? Isn't that internal?

So I recently did the WJ brake booster upgrade which works awesome! But now I have this really annoying squeak that is coming from the pedal area under the dash. It'll squeak when you step on the brakes with a good amount of force and kind whine as you hold it there. -Quite embarrassing when driving other people. If you only step on the brakes a little to slowly come to a stop, it's silent. If you really stomp on the brakes it'll squeak as you go past that point and then be quiet. I lubed up the pivot point between the rod and pedal but it didn't fix the squeak. I also tried spraying WD-40 inside the booster boot but that didn't work either. You guys think it's coming from the booster diaphragm(s) and I just got a bad one? I really hope not.

Maybe. I will try to inspect the manifold more thoroughly. Keep the ideas coming. I checked the exhaust manifold and I didn't see or feel any cracks. I am about ready to just run it as is until it blows up.

That's what I'm thinking too. But why?

Maybe. I will try to inspect the manifold more thoroughly. Keep the ideas coming.

Ok new video with the belt off and hopefully you can hear the noise a little better. The engine is warm in the video. Keep in mind the engine noise is quiet when it's cold. And one more thing that might be related is that you can hear the oil draining back into the pan after shutting off the engine.

how new? I had one fail after about 4k miles. bearings died and it ate itself alive. seriously though, it only takes a few minutes to pull the belt off. I'd do it just to eliminate the bearings once and for all. :thumbsup: I'd say it has 2k on it. I will pull the belt and take a listen. It better not be the power steering pump or something stupid like that.

I was afraid of that. Oh well. I need a better camera with a wind sock. All the flex plate bolts are tight. I just checked.

It doesn't sound like the other 4.0s I've heard. The water pump is new.

I decided to not run the engine without the belt because I am 99% sure it isn't coming from an accessory. I did however take a video. Hopefully you guys can hear the noise. Y4VWyKO1DKo