Timmaay

Got it out thanks guys!

I'm trying to do the cluster swap. I have the idiot light version with the shift indicator on the fuel gauge. I am trying to remove the whole cluster but I can't because the little cable that connects to the shift indicator is not long enough. How do I disconnect it?

I don't think that I over tightened the belt, and the pump is a new one from napa not a reman. over my lifetime, owning an 89xj, and now my Mj, I have replaced maybe 8 waterpumps- 3 were bad right out of the box, all were new- not remanufactured. I drove/drive alot- one area I found over the years of visiting different websites, was the failure to flush the system before replacing a pump- allowing crap to eat the seal/bearing in the pump itself. A new happy pump will readily pull every chunk of corrosion out of your radiator and engine....and sometimes I swear that new pump bearing and seal is a magnet for it. too tight of a serpentine belt can kill a pump fairly quickly....followed by the torsion bearing- which squeals like a cat being cut up slowly in a meat grinder, tail first. off center belts will kill a pump, but its fairly visible upon viewing- it should be centered, but I have run one rib off , for exactly the amount of time it took to throw the belt into little chunks. whats really fun, it putting on a new one, and realizing its the wrong rotation...and its getting dark....an cold....and raining. Well, great. I didn't flush the system because the coolant looked really good. Is there any possible way to flush it with the waterpump on? Or is the damage already done to the seal and I have to pull it and put another one on. Which one is the torsion bearing? I can see that the power steering pulley has a slight wobble to it maybe a 1/16" of side to side movement when the enigne is running, no play trying to move it by hand though.

I don't think that I over tightened the belt, and the pump is a new one from napa not a reman.

The truck used to have a real loud annoying whining noise after it warmed up a bit. I narrowed the noise down to the waterpump and replaced it :D (my first real work on any vehicle, coming form jet skis and small motors) So I drove it around for a while and all was silent. Now the noise is back :fs1: and it's from the new waterpump. The whining is not quite as bad as before but if I keep driving it I know I will kill the bearings on this one too. I am not sure as to what is causing this? I think that some pulleys might be bent somehow and causing the belt to get tight then loose then tight again over and over. Maybe some are bent and allowing for side to side play in the belt as well :hmm: Any ideas?

I didn't make the whole thing, I borrowed most of it from a member on naxja.

sig test. :clapping: It works.

Good memory I guess. 8) Got around to the compression test and all the cylinders are within 5psi of 150. :clapping: And this is without holding the throttle open, because I forgot. Didn't have a chance to dig through the folder of receipts in search of the oxygen sensor age. That's next on the agenda.

When doing a compression test how do you disable the fuel so it doesn't spray in there while cranking the engine over? Or do I even need to worry about that?

new plugs, wires, airfilter. Haven't checked the compression yet and I have no idea how old the oxygen sensor is. Thanks for the tips. I will look at some receipts from the previous owner and do a compression test today.

Well, I cleaned the throttle body and IAC a bit more with some cleaner. Fired and it up and the idle is back to normal. So that's good but not great since it still missing at idle. I didn't mess with the TPS again, I think I'm just going to leave it as is. I have yet to try that mopar combustion chamber cleaner that you recommended BLHTAZ. Are there any other things to try for the rough idle?

I will retry it today using that method. Last time I found it hard to get any reading if I didn't put the negative to a good ground. Would this cause a problem? I have already cleaned the IAC real good but not the TPS yet, I will get it all good and clean. The truck was idling at a regular rpm before i messed with the TPS, just had a bit of missfire. And almost wanted to die if I stabbed the throttle.

Ok, this is my first time trying to adjust the TPS and through many searches this is the method I followed. Turned key to run position. I have the automatic so I found the square connector with four terminals, put the positve lead of my multimeter into the back of the wire labeled A and the negative to a ground wire on the truck. The meter measured 5.47 volts. It supposed to be around 5 volts but don't know how far off it can be. Anyway, I then put the positve lead into the back of wire B and it measured 4.83. The second number is supposed to be 83% of the first number 5.47x.83=4.54. So it is a bit out of adjustment. I loosen the TPS sensor screws and while watching the meter, moved the sensor until the multimeter read 4.54. When all was said and done I ended up with the first number being 5.46 and the second being 4.52, So very close to spec. But, When I go to start up the truck it takes a couple cranks like usual, starts and then proceeds to idle at ~2000 rpm! I don't have a tach yet so this is just an estimate. What did I do wrong to cause such a high idle? Is the TPS just bad, indicated by the high 5.47?

Welcome to the club! I'm new too and have been learning as I go. Lots and lots of good info and very knowledgeable people on here!

Put the belt on. will do thank you

Sweet, thanks guys. Next question, what is the best way to tighten the waterpump pulley bolts. I can only tighten them as much as I can holding the pulley from spinning by hand.

Need ASAP Waterpump bolt torque?

:D Fixed it! Backed up all my files and did the dell system restore.

I checked for disk errors and couldn't find any. Mostly DCOM errors. I tried the diagnostic startup and it didn't fix it either. I'm pretty sure service pack wasn't installed recently yes I had already ran the chkdsk with "r" switch. I just want to say thanks to everyone who has tried to help me so far! I'm we'll get it figured out.

RAM thing did not help

You added memory recently or have more than 1 Stick? To test, and you have 2 sticks of RAM, I'd yank one and see what happens... if it happened again, swap the installed one and try to book again... sounds like "could" be bad ram (along with 100 other possibilities, but RAM is easy to swap and check) I haven't added any recently but I do have two sticks. I will pull one and report back :typing:

Any computer gurus out there? I've been trying to fix this computer for hours now and need some help. It's a Dell Dimension E510 Windows Xp media center edition version 2002 service pack 2, Pentium 4? 2.8 ghz. When I try to turn it on it either says that windows did not start properly and allows you to run it in safe mode. Or it shows a blue screen that sometimes says Bad_Pool_Header with error codes 0x00000019 (0x00000020, etc or sometimes it just has the codes 0x0000007e (0x0000005, 0xEE2FFC00, 0xF7A2D290, etc. The computer seems to work fine in safe mode (which is how I am typing this now). I tried running chkdsk but it didn't help. I also used system restore to restore it to two weeks ago, well before this started. I understand that it is some sort or driver failure causing this but I am at a loss as how to fix it. I have tried searching and tried all of the things that I could find. I am a beginner user so please don't assume I know anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Finally got some throttle body cleaner and cleaned it out. The truck seems to run the same as before.

sent my email

Ok, I tested each injector and they all seem to be working, I'm not sure if one had less of an effect than the others I might retest them. But, the truck seems to be idling better today for reasons unknown. Maybe it's the fuel injector cleaner doing it's job. I will get some throttle body cleaner and give that a try.