exjay33

Wow that is 2 times in 24 hrs that I have been told I don't know how things work around here . If no bashing or flaming is going on, then why so many links with pics or posts with pics ?? I just don't understand I guess my bad . Could someone post the order of how things work please put them in order for me I am a slow adult with my very strong opinions.

Just stating facts I could care less whose products you use why bash other peoples stuff? I have used superlift , rancho , rough country , Rubicon express , teraflex , Rustys , etc etc etc . I could show you sh$$ty work and different issues with them all.

Well then it seems to me the pecking order should not point someone in the wrong direction . If you check around you will find most people have this problem after lifting correct ? This is a caster problem not a pinion angle problem . Most of the time DW is related to the lower control arm bushing which after 100K are cracking breaking down if you are past 3" change them make them 3/4" longer most time problem solved then have it lined up , or next step track bar frame side mount loose or shot . Have you ever had severe death wobble or just the 55mph shimmy like alot of people have and think this is DW ? Once you have it you won't even want to drive your ride for fear of the result. And as far as the steering stabilizer its like taking a tylenol for a brain tumor !

Dear Motion off road I ordered a set of you rear springs that you do not build I am wondering when you have a part fail are we going to be able to bash your business as you seed to always jump on the Rustys so called problems ? How many off your parts are not made by you and why , I was looking at some of the pics you guys post that is not a rustys tie rod he does not make tie rods ! I am not employed by rusty or do I have a dog in this fight but I noticed Motion does not make a lot of your own parts why is this ? The jeep tj upside wrong that you posted links to, was the wheel and tire missing before it rolled or did this happen during ? You should be very careful saying the things that some of you say , alot of you are dealing with lifted- modified -changed in some manner vehicles , all parts fail no matter who or what you build ! I have bought allmajor and minor brand parts and lifts and can show you problems with them all . Also I hope my rear 3 springs hold up or someone is going to hear about it over and over and over!!!!!!!!!

Add comp. insurance with no deductible no problem plus you have extra space.

Eagle I can tell buy your response that you have never had the fun of death wobble , a vibration is one thing DW is a complete different thing . Pinion angle has nothing to do with DW . I would love to to have had it that I could just remove the front drive shaft a problem solved that is not how it works , I get so sick and tired off being outbuilt and outwheeled by people that never that never built or wheeled anything except a computer chair !!!!!!!!! To the young man that asked the question start at your lower control arm bushings and come up from there.

Like I said when you buy a REPLACEMENT IT WILL NOT HAVE A BLEEDEDR SCREW LIKE THE ONE THE FACTORY INSTALLED !!!!! READ instructions on the replacement very simple !

Death wobble has got dick to do with pinion angle , a pinion will either vibrate or remove your u joint if weak !

The new ones have no bleeders they are self bleeding , READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND DO NOT REMOVE THE STRAP THAT IS HOLDING THE ARM IN IT WILL BREAK ITSELF OFF . Hook your line up put fluid in let air rise refill let air rise install in housing with strap on bolt too housing pump with foot strap will break most air is gone job is done .

Pull your lower control arms first check the bushings , if all cracked and look shi**ty either change them or go to a longer lower arm, that is half inch too 3/4 longer . This is a problem that you can chase for a while but this is your best place to start . I have had this 2 times on different vehicles xj zj mj all to different degrees , does your ride have over a hundred thousand miles ? If so this is the best place too start .

Heat the door around the bolt not the bolt . If that doesn't work either hot wrench or weld a new head on it use a wrench or vicegrips .

Well I as well have several that start at 0.1 and go up from there 10 and 11 meter if you would like to borrow it you are more than welcome too . Anyhow any thing below 3 is good in 11 meter , and alot of the new radios turn down when they reach anything over the 3 mark.

On a good meter it starts at 0.1 , not a radio shack special.

Has anyone ever taken the switching unit off of the tranny and cleaned it ? ( the one that controls the shifting where linkage hooks on) There was an article in one of the jeep mags about this recently , they where saying that there are some small pieces to beware of . Has anyone ever performed this surgery to theirs ? Mine is starting to act up from time to time ( reverse lights sometimes have to shift to neutral to start) any input would be appreciated . Thanks guys

Go to a local trk stop buy a wilson 1000 magnet mount put it on the corner of the bed or wherever you feel like . This is as close too a 102 whip that you can get and they work great { price around 60.00 bucks } . Do you already have the radio , if not buy a small cobra or uniden will work just fine for trail use , if you want to really take around the country or the world for that matter { when conditions are right } go to coppers radios buy yourself a 10 meter radio have it converted to 11 meter and talk to the world . Oh and yes 0 ...00 swr 's are possible without dummy loads or in labs . I am a licensed radio operator if you have any questions you are welcome to contact. Yes on cb I have talked around the country and part way around the globe , mobile and base .

Never mine last post by me I found it hiding under a inch of crud , a little brake cleaner goes a long way . Thanks guys

Mine is not located in that position could it be further out on the intake between 2 other lines?

The temp sensor for new cluster is on the water neck correct , 2 wire weatherpack connector ? What I can find is part num. 53005056 for chrysler is this correct num. ? This is a 92 cluster in a 91 . Is there a certain year of I should get ?

I have asked this before but no real answer . My question is when you install the new gauge cluster and change the oil pressure sensor the one for the idiot light has one wire the gauge has 2 wires where does the wire go , anyone know ? Also does the water temp sensor need changed?

So the idiot lights and gauges require different sensors correct? I keep reading conflicting posts that some use what is on the motor at the time of the change and some say they change. Will it hurt the gauge cluster to plug it in without changing the sensors?

Is there a certain year water temp-oil pres. sensor , for a 92 cluster that I am going to put in my 91 ? Is it better to buy new ones or just boneyard parts ?

Thanks guys yes it was a 4.0 but the other thing is mine not auto on the floor what do you do with the shift indicator ? I plan to put it on the floor though.

I've read a bunch of the posts on this subject , my question is will the 92 xj cluster plug right into my 91 manche ? Also there are 2 sending units oil and water that I have to change is this correct ? The wiring harness in the dash behind the cluster is all plug and right. Thanks in advance

Yes they are they are brand new . Does anyone on here the the motionoffroad springs , if so how do they hold up?

Thanks Eagle for the input is there any other co. that make 3 inch rear springs other than hellcreek ?