mjdoa

Sorry,I think that's a sales pitch. I have one of each.They appear,at least,to be very very much alike.Perform very very much alike. Am not a metallurgist,though,so there may be some strength differences.Just can't tell by me. BTW,They were both designed by the same people,I believe? If the original designer has come up with that much better design than his own original and can sell it for the same money, kudos to him. In the meantime,try getting an Aussie for a Dana 30. That's the reason I have one of each.! Not trying to start an argument,just my .02,I should have qualified "identical" as only my opinion.

The turbine jet engine in the bed is a real plus too, :eek: but what kinda mileage is it gonna get?

Call http://www.northridge4x4.com/ They have lock-rite lockers for 30's. Are super to deal with,will give you a good price.Lock-rite is identical to the Aussie. I have Aussie in the rear.Lock-rite in the front, Love them both.You'll go places you never thought you could. Mine is a DD,works ok on the street. If you're only gonna do one,my suggestion would be rear,but that's only my .02, and as has been said,you'll get both answers, so research it,and please yourself.

I have these. http://www.tomken.com/catalog.php?searc ... ockerskids

pingpong,I do believe that's the direction I'll go, but I still think I'll buy the axles I'm looking at.They're complete,brakes and all,and driveshafts,just for the spare parts aspect.And the front axle at least,is the same. And just throw them in the corner for the time being. Looking at motion offroad as we speak,I think you've called the way to go.And guys,I'll go at least 4.11's. I work at a Dodge dealership,labor is pretty cheap. ;) They installed my 4.5'' lift for $150.For that price,why do it in the driveway? Also member of our local jeep club,Caloosa Jeepers, a few shops in the group. Motion offroad has inexpensive Aussie lockers,anyone had any experience with them? :cheers:

Alright,I'm convinced. Back to craigslist. :roll: Thanks for your sage advice,gentlemen.

Just for general jollies,mine came with one,it's gone,I looked for a long time.Found one and one only.A salvage yard in Cal. that specializes in jeep parts.They wanted $150,but since I'm in So Fla,I figured the freight would be prohibitive,I probably still have their name and stuff somewhere if you want it.

btw,Eagle,I had done the math,you are absolutely correct. :cheers: So shall I go back on the hunt?Would 4.11's be streetable, and halfway economical? And as I read this,I realize I want my cake and eat it too. :nuts:

But... my other vehicle is a 2500 Chev diesel,with fuel prices as they sre,I'd like to be able to take the 32's off after wheeling,put the streets on and use for d/d.Would 3.55's not be a good compromise under those circumstances? Or should I keep looking?

It was bought new in Plant City,Fl.=no rust. :D It has however,been rode hard and put up wet for 20 years.And I haven't helped by wheeling it. It's banged off a couple cypress trees in the Everglades. I've upgraded both bumpers,have rock sliders being built by TomkenInd,so we'll get her there. I'll get off my butt this weekend and post a pic. Thanks again.

For a price,we'll include you.

BTW,thanks for pointing out Rule#2. You guys are

As always,you guys are awesome. I think I'll get them,mine's got 3.08's,these are 3.55's, I'm running 32x11.50's,4.0,5 spd,4.5"lift.As you can imagine,5th gear is useless,and I'm sure it's straining the drivetrain tremendously.I'd like to go 3.73 or 4.10,but this guy has both axles complete,brakes,springs,and both driveshafts,$200.00.For that price,I can afford to do a little fabbing on spring perches and still be able to afford lockers, and live with 3.55's for a while. 8) I will put some pics up this weekend,so you all can laugh at my ugly truck.Body work and paint to follow. I'm a member of a Jeep club down here,and it's nice to have something different from a Wrangler,ugly or not. Thanks very much for your help,ya'll are the best.

I don't mean to waste anyone's time by not searching first, I did ,didn't find what I'm needing. Mine is an '88 mj. I have a chance to pickup 2 complete '90 xj axles cheap with a better gear ratio. Question is,rear axle is complete,springs and all,even brakes, will it bolt in directly?Do realize I'm going SOA, which is good for me.Need to know if housing is the same width.and are the spring perches the same distance apart mj and xj?Getting drive shafts,so those can be changed if necessary. Thanks,guys,as always. I'm far away from you all,So Florida, my project is coming along nicely,I'll put up some pics.

Has anyone found a vendor for MJ rock rails? I have searched for weeks,no luck.About ready to buy a welder and fab them. Thanks.

Will do,thanks. I want to mount winch to plate that'll plug into a hitch so I can use it front and rear,I suppose a hitch will work as well as a bumper. I have factory step bumper now,it's getting pretty ugly after 20 years, and no hitch reciever. Again,thanks for the idea.

Does anyone know any companies that make rear bumpers with a hitch reciever? I've looked all over the www,front bumpers are everywhere,I can't find rear. '88 Comanche,swb

uh,yep.Star Parts and Pais. South Fla,Where are you?

Yes I'm sure I can make something.Thanks for the great description,I know exactly what you're describing.When you take the bezel off,there's a small,maybe 1/8'' groove around the inside edge to hold something,I just didn't know what until you guys helped,now I'll go see what I can find to seal it up.Apparently,there must be some jute stuffed in there too,to keep the heat down.Have lots of that at work. By the way,I'm a parts guy at a Dodge dealership,36 years worth,if anyone needs a question about factory parts answered,I can probably do that for you. Have access to Mopar parts system at home,also. Thanks again.

My '88 4x4 has a gap around the transfer case shifter that blows enough hot air into the cab at lower speeds to make you pass out. The bezel is still there and good,but it appears that there used to be a rubber(?) boot of some sort in that 1 by 4 inch slot that the lever moves in.Anyone got a clue what's supposed to be in it,please let me know I need to make something to keep out the heat.Thanks.

That's why I joined you guys,all the answers. :cheers: Thankyou very much,looks like no surprises. I'm a parts guy at a Dodge dealership,have the correct o-rings in pocket. ;) Looks maybe like it won't be a whole weekend project, might have time to go riding too. I'll be back,I'm 2 weeks into an '88 Comanche $500 craigslist restoration project,will have lots of questions. You guys are the best. Thanks again.

Duh,'88 4.0.Older style adapter. Sorry,gettin' senile

Weekend project,replace o-rings on adapter. Anyone got any tips.Apparently it'll get done from underneath. Size of that big bolt?Is that all that holds it on? Should I expect any surprises? Thanks.

did you get your pic? I just got done repairing mine,not fun,if you still need,I work in a Mopar parts dept,i can email one tonite from home,or fax it from work. Let me know. As was described,the cable affair wears out,nothing you can do but replace it,I got a regulator out of warranty,disassembled it,used the cable,but unless you work for a Jeep parts dept,that option is probably out.Sorry. New reg from your dealer may be cheaper than online,check it out. If I can help,let me know.

hi,all,my first post. Might as well be here,I guess. I just got an "88 mj 4.0,it'll be a resto project. In searching for a vacuum leak this weekend, I found the same problem you have,but in that upper hole was a screw,just flopping around.I assumed that it'd come loose and wallowed out the hole in the tb,I rtv'd the line into it. Just happen to work at a Dodge dealer parts dept,so I ordered a new line .It came in this a.m.,and after reading your post I looked closely at it.That upper plug is a barbed plug like the lower one, and has a hole clean through it,so apparently it's just a locator,and not supposed to have a screw in it either,so I'm gonna replace it anyway since I got it,but I think we're both ok. Retail from your friendly Mopar dealer is $23 for that line,so vacuum tubing and spit is probably a lovely idea!Might want to rtv it in ,though,since the map sensor is on the firewall,you'll have lots of vibration in that line to the engine. As I said,new owner,new member,welcome me aboard. :cheers: I just now was allowed to post,so don't have a signature or avatar ready yet,I'll do it tonight after work.