603Redneck

mud is my favorite color!!!

not at the moment. ill get some put up once i take them.

so its been awhile since i been on here, figured id post some pics of what the ol'girl looks like now. easter push button ignition! snorkle stuck pulling my buddy kyle out of the swamp....

so i got it all in and everything is straight now. but when i went to hook up the passenger side upper control arm it was like 2 1/2 inches to short even when it was fully extended. i cut the threaded end of the control arm, welded some solid circle stock in then welded a pipe over the 2 welds. extended it about 3 1/2 inches and it works just fine now. what i don't get is it said it was made for a 6 inch lift, wich is what i thought i had.........

yeah thats what i ended up doing, then attaching the control arm to keep it from rolling foward again. thanks for the imput!

thats a good idea eagle, but i don't have a spring compressor.......

got a quick question, and its prolly gonna sound dumb, but i broke the upper control arms on on the front axle, i just got new daystar uppers and am ready to put them in, but the axle is still rolled fowared and i can't seem to get it back down. the yoke is almost straight up. ive tried using my winch, jacking it up everything. is there any way other than taking the entire thing out and putting it back in????

you have any problems with the stock axles yet? I'm only running 34" LTB's and ive blown 2 D35's and broke the upper control arms completely off the D30. put an 8.8 in the rear and I'm looking for a cheap 44 for the front that i can build. you live in boston? i live in epping nh, right down the rd from new england dragway. we should get the mj's togther and show people up!

hey its a masshole! lol, sup guy, nice truck. i live in NH. you should come up here sometime and go wheeling with us!

yup, it was the fuel pump! shes running like a top again!!!!!

just an update: so i got to thinking about it and realalized that it sounded like a fuel issue. sure enough it was. i held it wide open and poured gas down the tbi and she revved up like normal, but as soon as the gas burnt off it bogged down and died again. ill be replacing the fuel pump tomorrow so ill keep this updated

i replaced the dist with a used one off another motor, didnt seem to be an issue. timing is set dead balls on. changed the dist, cap, rotor, coil, plugs and wires, crank sensor, tps, alt, battery.... __________________

checked the grounds, they look fine. my buddy brought over a fuel pressure test gauge but theres no schrader valve on the fuel rail so i don't know how to test it

your from duraham? no kidding thats right down the rd. i paid 800$ for the jeep itself then 700$ for the tires. lol

got an 88 2.5, finally got it started (the power wire going to the starter was bare at the end and shorting against the block, fixed that and she fired right up) but now its back to its original problem of rough idle and it sounds like its missfiring. when i give it full throttle it bogs down severely but if i ease into the throttle it will gain rpm's but still sound like its missing. its so bad that i can't even drive it. any ideas?

oh, lmao. i was confused there for a sec :wall:

WTF???? :huh???:

thanks for the info man! i got a 2.5 for $50 that I'm just gonna run for the winter. when i get more time and money i plan on doing 4.0 swap, and I'm sure ill be pm'ing you with questions when i do. lol. again thanks for all the info

@#$% all that, thats more than i want to do right now, i really want to put a chevy 4.3 into it wich would be about the same time wise and work wise so ill just wait to put the 4.3 in. now i just gotta find a cheap 2.5 to get me through the winter. thanks for the info man, greatly appreciated!

i want to put a 4.0 into my 88 comanche 2.5l, has anyone done it? what does it entail? will i have to fab anything, like motor mounts, radiator brackets, will my 4spd tranny and transfer case fit? any help would be great guys! thanks

dunno if anyone mentioned it or not yet, but when mine did that, it was the block ground. cleaned it up put a new connector on it and bolted it back on, she fired right over

There are two possible places where they leak: (1) the O-rings, and (2) the connection between the metal portion of the body and the plastic portion. If the metal-to-plastic bond lets go, there is no possible repair. This is not a new problem. I watched an XJ burn up in front of my then-GF's house ten years ago, and a couple of years after that a friend in NAXJA knew his injectors were leaking but drove his MJ to the dealership to buy new O-rings. He walked out of the parts department to find his truck in flames. OUCH! now THAT is a kick in he @$$!

never mind i found the answer. it should be between 5-7 ohms.

does anyone know what the resistance reading for my 88 2.5L on the 02 sensor should be under optimum conditions?

what about the tensioner on the timing belt? would that cause these symptoms? i don't want to go through the hassle of pulling the timing cover off if thats not the problem.