603Redneck

well i replaced the TPS and that didnt do it, took the comp out and opened it up, dosent even look like water even got in there, its still shiny (its obviously a rebuilt) and no soot or anything. I'm lost......

ive also been told that running the comp at not the proper voltage (when my alt was bad and ran it all day on the batt till it died) it can either screw up the comp or the sensors. any thoughts on that?

what about the TPS? i unplugged it and nothing changed, plugged it back in pushed the lever down and no change in idle. think that might be causing it?

the shaft don't move at all, theres no play in it and the new cap and rotor look fine, no scarring or anything.

oh, and when i replaced the old cap and rotor, the rotor had somehow chewed into the cap pretty good. that mean anything?

also it did this to me before awhile back. then it was cuz the alt was junk and when i floored it, it didnt have enough voltage to open the injector up so it bogged down like it is now. but its a brand new alt and when i disconnect the batt it still runs so thats not it this time. it just started happening again, i went out wheeling and it was running perfect, went to go hook up to pull my buddy and it started doing it again.

no i havent had the dist out or loose at all. it almost seems to run ok at around 3-4 rpms but i can tell its still not right. i thought of that tensioner but was hoping not to have to pull the cover to check it

hey guys, ive tried everything i can think of and I'm out of ideas. my 88 2.5 comanche is idling really rough and when you give it full throttle it completly dies, but when you let off the throttle it comes back and idles like $#!& again. i replaced cap,rotor,wires and plugs. its also got brand new alt in it. only other thing i can think of is TPS or comp. anyone got any ideas?

thats what i have, and its 3:55's. already had the diff cover off and ran the numbers on it.

and they don't get crushed when rock crawling...... wich is the main reason I'm putting one in. my stock tank is @#$%ed!

how'd you go about it? run into any issues or anything? any tips or advice?

anyone ever mount a fuel cell into their commanche? do i need a seperate fuel pump or will the stock one work if i run it inside the fuel cell?

and by custom, you mean what exactly? I'm actually thinking about putting a fuel cell in it. i only use her for off roading so....

i got an 88 short bed 4 banger that i put a nice hole in the gas tank rock crawling. will a gas tank outta an xj (or anything else for that matter) fit in my mj?

i don't know that much about axles, and even less about vacum, any ideas on how to fix it? where is the actuator located ect ect ect

I'm locked (welded) front and rear, but sometimes only 1 front tire (driver side) spins and the passenger side dosent. but it dosent to it all the time. any ideas?

yeah when i was out on the lake sun night i noticed it. damn thing don't like turning that well..... that is untill you crank her into a donut across the entire lake at 55 mph! and if you think thats bad my buddy almost rolled his brand new lifted rubicon that night trying to do a faster donut. i laughed my @$$ off!

you take the 2 sets of numbers and divide them and you get your gear ratio....39 divided by 11 is 3.55 thank you! i new you had to divide some number by something but didnt know what it was. appreciate your help. and you said its a dana 35?

yeah its a 4 speed stick. and its really not bad at all with the front locked. really don't notice it much. i do however notice the rear being locked BIG TIME! any lil corner and the damn thing is chirping my brand new 34 10.5 LTB's!

i got an 88 comanch 2.5L 4 banger 4WD. i welded the front and rear, and i wrote down the numbers on the rearend. anyone know what rearend it is and what gears it has? i think its the 4:11's but i could be wrong this is what was stamped on it 11 1487 DANA D 42725 P2L10 39 11