Gubachoo

I have cleared it and had it go back to 128 ltft and then once it hits closed loop it climbs quickly to 166 and stops so it seems that's the max. I only have the narrow band stock o2 but it is switching which tells me it is at or near stoichiometry. The timing is not adjustable outside of cruisers clocking tip correct? I had done that years ago and double checked it when the engine went back in. My current plan is pull the manifold as soon as I can and do the gasket again. If it isn't that I'm out of ideas.

My injectors are between 14ms and 18 ms when at highways speeds at normal throttle in fifth gear. I never noted what they were before so do not know if this is normal. My stft sometimes goes as high as 200+ so it is trying to compensate for too much air (since I think the lack of fuel probability has been eliminated) and I need to figure out why. I can't do the gasket at the moment on the road so it might have to wait which is not ideal. I'm also afraid that my front pipe might not go back on as the studs holding it to the manifold were questionable when I put the motor back in (was on a very tight time budget so couldn't do it at that moment) so I want to do it when I can take the time to go over it well. Not in a Napa parking lot in somewhere Tennessee or Kentucky.

Thanks for the input. Yeah the headlight switch has melted the pigtail. Will have to repair with spades until I get to a junkyard to get a new one. Glad to have finally found the issue though. The engine I ordered specifically called for 87 octane but I ran a rank of 91 just to be sure with no change. Also keep in mind this issue came on after a few thousand miles so it is not in the initial build. I've pulled the plugs and they show a slightly lean/hot mixture but that's what I expected with how it is running. My plan for the afternoon is to use a water spray bottle to check for leaks again.

Like I said, I'm doing this while on a road trip so apologies for the delayed response. This problem has taken a little bit of a back seat to my running light fuse blowing constantly while I try to find out why and then my headlight switch melting (see photo) but that will be done in the next few days To answer some questions. Checked my fuel pressure and it is good around 30psi as per fsm. Under load and while driving. Up to 40 when the vacuum line pulled from regulator. Replaced my fuel filter just because it needed it and no change. Also jumped the ballast resistor, no change. I replaced the pump maybe five years ago when I did the tank. Put in a Bosch unit. I know that doesn't preclude anything but it seems good. I will check for vacuum leaks again more carefully in the next few days when the headlight switch issue is resolved but I'm getting close to pulling the manifold with the thought that the gasket is bad after finding that loose nut. Any other thoughts are appreciated

I'll do that but it doesn't quite make sense with the high idle unless it is a seperate issue (not impossible for sure)

Picture: knock sensor at 55mph while towing small trailer under light throttle. 5 mins after resetting knock memory with max and min (sorry, it won't let me post it right side up no matter how I try)

Picture: fuel trim at idle with knock and inj duty cycle.

OK so I've spent some decent time so far and can't figure it out. I put a new CME 4.7 stroker in my truck in September. After break in it ran great and so I went on a long planned road trip while towing a small travel trailer. Things went great after a few hiccups (hose from TB to map sensor popped out, harmonic balancer that I stupidly didn't replace when doing the motor seperated, clutch master failed) but after 3000 or 4000 miles I started to notice a pinging. I have an REM and saw my knock going up. Checked the sensor and the terminal was cracked so I replaced that (torqued properly and everything) but no change. It steadily got worse. I noticed my LTFT and STFT were both high. My LTFT is what I assume is the max of 166 because it's stuck there and STFT is between 100-170 driving and as high as 220 at idle. Most of the time so I'm very lean, causing the ping. My idle is also high most of the time, but not always suspiciously. Now here's where I thought I had it. Checked my manifold bolts and found one loose on the under side. Tightened it but no change. Just finished spraying all areas it could leak with TB cleaner to see the change in idle and I get nothing. Will try it again later with water as I know this will cause more of a noticeable stumble than TB cleaner. While doing the spray test I pulled off every vacuum hose and plugged the port with my finger to see if the idle dropped to normal indicating the problem was on that circuit but no luck. Also watched the REM at this time to see if the STFT took a dive. No luck on all counts. So it seems very likely that this is an installation error problem since I just had the motor out but keep in mind it wasn't immediate. I have larger injectors (forget which ones but I can look it up if important) but the problem wasn't here initially and grew worse over time so unlikely that's the issue. My o2 readings still switch but hang on the lean side more as you would expect. Everything else seems good and much is new with the engine swap. My last thought it that the bolt that loosened up allowed the gasket to blow out under if after hundreds of miles of not being torqued but as it's only vacuum I find that unlikely. It's also really hard to get in some of the spots where the manifold meets the block with a spray bottle. So that's where I am. I know how bad pinging and running lean is for a motor so I'm babying it and trying to get this solved ASAP. I have many (not all) of cruisers tips done if that makes a difference. Any constructive input is appreciated. Also, I'm on the road a bit so apologies in advance for possible sporadic responses.

Gotcha, makes sense. The new parts said 13n/m for the stud and 10n/m for the sensor. My knock still reads higher than it should, albeit far lower than it was. Time to check some timing things I suppose. It's a brand new 4.7 from CME and my knocks were high before the swap. I thought since the old engine was over 400,000 it made sense it would be a little loose but obviously there is another issue.

Perfect thanks. I'm guessing the stud doesn't need any specific torque then.

Nice. Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can track down now seals. I mostly need iy for the seal on the outside of the window where it meets the door, lower portion. The desert sun has destroyed it

I have had a hard time finding the torque value on the stud and then the sensor for the new sensor. Anyone? Maybe a photo from the service manual as I have heard quite a few different values depending on who you are. Thanks.

Reviving this topic, anyone put these in or others and had good or bad experience. Just got mine painted and want to do them this winter. Any other tips or part suggestions?

Part found. From a 98, had to swap the tailshaft housing and the mainshaft (different lengths and different oiling grooves that I saw once I disassembled it but after looking it over I can't see how it will pose a problem) but it is installed and has now done almost 800 miles so I guess we are good. Thanks for all the input and suggestions, greatly appreciated.

I have a friend in that area I've been meaning to visit. Let me see if I can tie this all together. Do you happen to have any pics? Know if its the same as the 95 I've got going on? thanks for reaching out either way

hmmm.... OK, I will have to do some digging and find out, it's my DD and I just had the driveshaft shortened last year with the axle upgrade, don't want to spend that money again if I can help it. Thanks!

Gotcha, thanks, super helpful!

So... I have an AX15 from that same 95 cherokee, and so I think it has a 23 spline? But you're saying it might be 21? I'll do more research on the short/med/long shafts then but if I have an AX15 I should have medium?

ah, ok. that is a nice little upgrade. This will work with my driveshaft or are the length/splines an issue? Will this accept a gear speedo drive or electronic only?

Thanks for that! One more thought, if I'm looking in junkyards, what year and options can I choose from? I assume I need a donor with a 4.0, does it need an ax15? Do I have any other worries to consider? I'm told I have a 23 spline, is there a way to know if a donor is 23 spline without pulling it?

Does this do it?

The thing is, I don't have a lot of time at my next stop. Rebuild kits run about 250 for a decent kit ( non Ebay no name ) and I'm seeing junkyard units for around that. I've rebuilt before so that's not an issue, just the time crunch and hoping that parts come in time during a time when shipping and manufacturing is delayed in just about everything

4.0

Does this help?

I don't know as I haven't pulled it, it's my daily driver. Is there a way to tell without examining the input shaft? If I can grab a whole case I'd rather just do that as I am pressed for time between jobs/moves this fall. I can rebuild one but taking it apart, waiting for parts (in the current climate of nothing in the world ships in less than 90 days, haha) and maybe having to get another anyways isn't an enticing proposition. If it comes to that, I'll make it work, but I'd rather not. Thanks for the info