marie

Yeah, that's what I thought too, but I wanted to hear it from someone else. Got any ideas on why the pump would go in a matter of 2-3 years? Could it actually go bad from being only slightly low on fluid? And it really was only slightly low, by maybe 4 oz at most. It was kind of all of a sudden too, not much warning. I may still have the receipt, maybe Napa will honor their life time warranty, if that's what it had. My abs are getting a nice work out! :rotf:

Hey guys, my power steering is only working while the engine is revving. It is not whining, and it's not low on fluid. Well it was whining a little and a tiny bit low on fluid, but adding fluid did stop the little bit of whining but did not bring the power steering back. I put a new gear box on a few months ago and had put a new pump on when I replaced the engine a couple of years ago. So nothing is all that old. What say ye, is it the pump, do I need to bled it again like I did when I put the gear box in? Thanks in advance for any help :) oops, forgot to put a space in powersteering in the title........ I'm better with a wrench than I am with spelling, honest!

@ GHayduke......caster oil....LMAO! :rotf: @ Eagle & Hornbrod, sweet, thanks for the info! I will ask the shop that did the alignment and see if they will honor it and still do it. I have the computer print out of the test results and the caster was right on the edge of the acceptable range so I'm not hopeful. The shop was also not very apreciative of a girl knowing more than they did. When I had the clunk in the steering they insited my u-joints were bad and I agrued the fact becasue I had just replaced them a few months ago. When I showed them it was the loose lugs in the hub they were not happy. I sware I approached it nicely and just wanted them to have the info, but the guy was clearly ticked off. I'm guessing becasue I'm a 120 lb GIRL....... :wrench: I may be small but over the years of doing auto work I have learned a lot about mechanical advantage! Many thanks guys!

@GHayduke, sorry I should have posted a final note on this thread.... As it turns out the bracket that mounts to the motor mount for the track bar is actually L shaped, unbeknownst to me. I discovered there are two more bolts on the vertical portion of the bracket that are only visible through the wheel well (nut side), and the head of the bolts is in the engine compartment from the top. I only saw the two bolts that go to the under side of the motor mount and had only tightened those earlier. Once I tightened them, I chose to replace the track bar and the steering dampener once again as they showed some wear and tear. Once off I saw they were definitely needed to be replaced. They were the first two components I replace at the beginning of the ordeal 9 months ago (nightmare to be more exact). With that done I still had a clunk when turning the wheel tightly, as in going in and out of a parking space. I discovered that three of my lugs on the passenger side were stripped in the hub hence the clunk, so I replaced the hub and steering knuckle. I also put almost new tires, a full set from the junk yard with 75% tread... no $$ left for new!! Now, with all the new parts, literally EVERY single steering and suspension component in the front except the upper control arms, I could finally take it in for a front end alignment. The toe was so far out it didn't even register on the computer/laser!!! They told me that my truck only has a toe adjustment, no camber or caster, is that correct??? I am happy to say it is quite sound now :cheers: , though my heart still races every time I see a hole in the road! It's ingrained at this point, though I am getting better. Now if I could only figure out how to install my new radio (that's been sitting in the box for the past year) there are at least 15 wires hanging out there with no connector, fix the emergency brake, fix the speedometer, fix the interior light, fix the........ Someday it will be worthy of a paint job! :yes: Many thanks to those who helped out here!

Thanks danbyrambler, I will investigate that and gather info. What parts are involved in TA? You mention toe so I am assuming the tie rod and center link? I did all the work myself so I could very well be the PO! :laughin:

@ ftpiercecracker, My gear box definitely only goes on one way. There are three long mounting bolts on the left side that fit onto a bracket that I believe is part of the frame. I don't recall there being a spacer, unless it is the bracket it fits onto. It was quite simple to put on. There were the two fittings for the fluid lines, the three bolts, the steering column gear and the pitman arm. Did I miss something? I will check it all out on Saturday when I revisit the problem with my little laundry list from the above suggestions and a few youtube videos. Great link you posted, I will scour that for info too. Many thanks!

@ Eagle, I changed out the lower control arms already but have not done the uppers. I was nervous about getting the bushings in the axel out and not being able to get the new ones in as was my experience with the lowers to which I just bought the whole arm. I will rotate the tires, which would also let me know if maybe it is warped rims. Though I have to admit I will be a little paranoid about getting on the highway and purposely hitting a bump!! @1987 Comanche, glad to hear Georgia is still hanging in there. I will check the trani mounts, I hadn't thought of that. Doesn't the mystery clunk just drive you crazy? Here is a thought, I replaced the gear box for the steering and bled it per the instructions 3 times now and it is still a little noisy (creaky) but there are no air bubbles in the fluid when I bleed it. I got it at Napa and I have always trusted their parts. I even got my replacement engine there. Is there a chance I got a bad one, or does it take a while for those to settle in sometimes?

@ cpa tim, I totally forgot to put u-joints on the list of replaced parts, I knew I would forget something! I replaced them when I did the ball joints, it only made sense, everything was apart. Thank you for your input, it is a good thought. :) @ftpiercecracker, I will definitely check those bearings, it is one of my top concerns. I replaced one side already so I will have a good comparison. The u-joints at the wheels are new, but I should check the one at the axle too! As for the warped rims, I'll bet if I laid the tire flat and put a straight edge across the tire and measured the distance to the rim with a micrometer all the way around and on both sides, I might see at least a little variance. It might not be a sound method but could be worth a shot. I'm sorry to hear you went through the same DW things and maybe even worse! Thanks for all your tips, they're great! My biggest concern right now is the crunch/clunks. I am feeling a bit paranoid that something is going to snap! I also have new motor mounts, for what ever that is worth, as well a new engine 3 yrs ago. I think I may have traded in my codependent boyfriends for a codependent relationship with my truck! I'm a diehard though, I'll never give up on my truck.... :yes:

Thanks for the quick reply GHayduke, but I already tried that one of the issues is it only makes the noises when it is in motion. It doesn't make the clunk or crunch when sitting still and turning the wheel. I tried walking next to it while someone else drove it but I couldn't pin point the clunk other than I (think) it's on the drivers side. Also, I was very careul to tighten everything to torch specs. Thank you! :)

Besides the awesome wheel and knob....... this is what my truck would look like if it was clean? Inspiring! :eek:

I have been chasing down a front end death wobble for the last several months. I have replace almost all the steering and suspension components at this point. See list below for what has been replace, what has not. I have also listed the symptoms for easier reading. Here is the gist of the history of the problem. It started out as the typical hit a bump on the highway and the front end shakes mercilessly and your heart skips a beat. I took it to a driveline specialist and they replaced the track bar and the steering dampener. To no avail I might add, the rest of the work mentioned here I did myself. I took it to get the wheels balanced and the shop said my steering knuckle on the passenger side was bad. I replaced it, and when I took the old one back to napa, they said there was nothing wrong with it and it didn’t really need to be replaced, bummer, but I left the new one in anyway. As the months passed I kept replacing stuff and it would seem to get a little better but not go away. There has also been a consistent clunk whenever I back out of a tight parking space and cut the wheel tight. Then suddenly two weeks ago I couldn’t go over 30 mph or it would wobble and I didn’t even have to hit a bump. So I replaced the center link, tie rod end and lower control arms. This has still not fixed the problem! It is better, I can go 45 or 50 before hitting a bump and getting the wobble. I think I am getting there but I’m running out of parts to put on and with the new center link, tie rod end (at the wheel) and control arms I have a much worse crunching clunk when I turn the wheel tight left at back up or starting speeds and an occasional clunk when turning at higher speeds, this is new! :shake: I did make sure that all the tie rod ends center link connections were nice and straight when I put it all together. The center link and tie rod ends at the wheels appear to be ever so slightly tilted now that it is all settled in, but it is not by much. (Should I re straighten them?) Not sure what I should do next, besides a front end alignment. I’d like to wait until I’m done with new parts to do that. As I was typing this up it occurred to me that the crunch and clunk could be the steering knuckle on the driver’s side. How do I check that out without actually taking that part off? If I remove the wheel would I be able to tell if it is bad by wiggling it? What say ye, any advice as to the next step? Thanks in advance for an help and don't be afraid to tell me if I've done something stupid. It happens to the best of us. Symptoms at this point Slight crunching sound and clunks twice when turning the wheel to the left at start up speed. Wobble comes back at speeds over 45 when hitting a bump. Occasionally clunks when turning left at normal street speed Going downhill seems to make it more susceptible to the wobble New parts I put on myself (except track bar and dampener) Upper and lower ball joints Sway bar links Track bar Lower control arms Steering knuckle passenger side Center link Steering dampener Tie rod end at wheel Tie rod end at center link Power steering gear box Steering shaft from firewall to gear box Rebuilt steering column in cab Front brakes and rotors new last year Rear brakes new last year Parts left that look to be in good shape still Sway bar itself looks fine Pitman arm looks fine Coil springs, look fine Shocks, only 3 yrs. old and seem fine Tie rod bar itself, seems fine Drive axel, seems fine Parts that may have wear Upper control arms could use being replaced but I was nervous about getting the bushings out of the axel, I don’t have pneumatic tools Steering knuckle driver’s side not sure how to check if it’s stable

No worries, I resigned the idea of pulling Cisoc (the horse) behind my truck, I respect him way too much to let anything happen to him. He's my best friend. Now, some of the other friends I have had in my life I might consider pulling in a trailer...... ;)

Ok, I'll get the big kit. I'm guessing I would have found out the same way you did :hmm: had it not been for this forum! Precisely why I posted the question here. Thanks for the advice Much appreciated! Ok, on the towing thing. I'll just make the horse sit in the bed of the truck with my dogs......... just kidding :rotf:

Ok, thanks mvusse, so I can go ahead and get the one with the fitting and just replace the fitting with a small bolt, sounds like a plan. I wasn't crazy about not being able to grease them. though I'm sure I will have to replace them when I lift it someday. In all of my back yard mechanical adventures, and there have been many, I have not done this particular job, and it sounds like you have done this once or twice. Is there anything special I should do or not do on this job, or is it all pretty straight forward? I still have to name my truck, I"m thinking of just calling it "Dr, Chaos" or "black hole", because all my $$ seems to go into my truck....... This question is a little off topic, but my 88 MJ with no tow package could pull one horse in a one horse trailer, right? It would probably be around 2000lbs.

It's me again...... This time I am replacing my upper and lower ball joints and the u-joints (while I'm in there anyway) at the wheel. I think I will have access to a lift to do the work, YESSSS!!! You are my guardian angels when it comes to repairs, so I look to you for guidance and any cautions or warnings to take for this job. I read an article on a 92 Cherokee installation of these parts and they mention that you have to get a special ball joint for the lowers. Here is the article quoted: "For the ball joints you want to be careful when getting them as autozone and advanced auto parts didn’t have their list made right when I got mine, when you get the ball joints the upper ball joint is listed correctly but when you get the lower ball joint make sure that the ball joint does not have the grease fitting in the top of it as it will not work due to the u-joints in the axel shaft sitting right above them you need the lower ball joints that do not have the grease fitting or the hole for one it has to have the sealed case." Here is the link to the article: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t723666-how_to_replace_ball_joints_axle_u_joints.html Lemme know if you think this article will hold true for my 88 MJ. Thanks in advance :bowdown: Marie

I've been meaning to write a comment. My Mom passed away Oct. 2nd and I haven't had my head in the game so to speak. There are other mechanical issues taking precedence too. I have a 90' Talon that I gave to my son when he graduated basic training and tech school a few months ago. It is having trouble passing the smog test for registration renewal. I have done a few things and brought it down from 894 ppm to 345ppm, the limit is 220ppm. I need to try a pressure test next I think, and I'm trying to find someone with a compressor. It also sounds like the timing could be off a hair, but it has a coil pack and I'm lost on how to adjust it. Well, I have to buy a timing light and check it first, I will have to find a forum for Talons. Back to my truck, my death wobble is back and I can't drive it on the highway which is imperative as I need to drive to Carson city three times a week for job #3. I went to get my wheels rotated and balanced as a first check. I went in and asked if I could check a few things while it was on the lift. Sure enough I have a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side, which means change out four ball joints and two u joints. Plus the guy that was looking at it with me said it looked like some of the other parts I replaced 6 months ago when I was initially tracking down the death wobble have worn out, most notably the dampener and drag link. When it rains it pours. So there's a lot to do under the front end before I can get back to testing the TPS. Which I will do eventually. I will start a new thread for the ball and u joints, I have not done those before and I will be doing them on the ground, I don't have a lift. Just in case there are a few things to watch out for. Plus my little brain is not 100% yet from my Mom passing. I guess there's no rest for the wicked...... I"ll try to start the new thread tonight. Thanks for the help with the problem on this thread, it is running great with the exception of the slight idle fluctuation which I'm sure will pass once I get back on the TPS.

I can not hear it when I'm in the truck, only when standing near it. As for the TPS, I just found this post here http://comancheclub.com/topic/11634-renix-throttle-position-sensor-tps-testing-adjustment/ It explains how to adjust it. I will be a couple of weeks before I can hit that. The steering wheel is making me nervous. It has an inch of play if you move it up and down with tilt locked, but is solid side to side. Is it possible that it could just disintegrate and suddenly not function? You know like at 60mpr on the highway? Gotta work on the Talon today and try and get it registered. It expires tomorrow. yikes! Will I ever have a weekend to myself?

It's not riving now, but it only did intermittently, once a week at the most. I will have to wait and see if it does it any more. I have a new MAP in it now, so maybe that will cure that aspect of it. As for the pump, it sounds a little high bitched, like a whinny electric motor.

ok, loud is relative when you put it that way :) I will check it out when I start it to go to work and let you know. You may be all the things you listed above, but you are also brilliant and kind. I'll check and see if I have a ballast too. Thanks! Here is a curiosity, before doing this work occasionally the truck would suddenly race to 3-4K rpms and I would have to turn it off and on again several times before it would quit that. And, it would occasionally do that at start up, but way higher a rev than just being cold. That is usually the MAP, right?

So, being able to hear it while standing next to it is considered loud, right? If I put in a new fuel pump, will it also take care of the ballast? Less than a half tank and I don't have to drop the tank right?

ok, the oxygen sensor looked pretty accessible if I am remembering right. It's mounted in the exhaust pipe drivers side, right? Anything special to keep in mind while removing it? I can hear the fuel pump while standing next to the rear wheel when it's running, is that bad? Thanks :)

Well boys, she is idling..... :MJ 1: The idle is quieter and smoother, but...... it changes pitch once in a while, even after it is warm. I play guitar and I'd say it goes from D to F-F#. The exhaust looks clear, no more black, at least as far as I can tell with a drop light. I held the light right up to the tail pipe for a minute or two and there was nothing on the plastic cover on the light. I will drive it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. So is the pitch change a big worry? All of you who have pitched in to help, especially cruiser54 are my heroes!!! :bowdown: I wish you were closer I'd buy you all a :group beer: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! Now I can get back to the tilt steering wheel issue. It has almost an inch of play moving up and down, no play side to side. I am guessing it is the nylon knuckle in the tilt mechanism. I'm hoping it's not too difficult, I know i have to get a couple of pullers. I will post a new topic for that. I also have a clunk in the front end when I turn the wheel all the way left or right, right at the end of turning it all the way. I'll get under there with a stethoscope and see if I can hear exactly where it's coming from. Then there is my Talon that didn't pass inspection last week. It came out with 864 ppm and the max allowable if 220. Aww shucks it's only 4 times what it should be........ I HAVE to fix that Saturday, registration runs out Sunday. Does it never end? The thing is, all old cars need a lot of attention and repair, it's different with a Jeep, (Comanche in particular) because it's worth it. :yes:

yeah, I cleaned the IAT, that's when I snapped the CCV hose...... :oops:

So, does that mean from 87'-90' the engine blocks are identical? I think I remember reading that in 90' they started to change a few things including getting rid of the C101, is that right? Thanks for all the part numbers cruiser54. I was considering getting the front and back vacuum harnesses to help insure there were no vacuum leaks. The EGR that is on my truck now is a replacement I'm pretty sure. it has a bar code tag on it. Should I bother trying to clean it? Thanks!

It's not the proper pre bent hose, just replacement hose that I have to mold. Disappointing I know :(, they don't have specific hose for the CCV either. The rubber connectors are what I had to order. Thanks for the info on the unmarried connectors I posted. Makes sense now. I meant to include in the last post, these are the only numbers I could see on the engine block, but it's not 10 digits. 53005535 and it does clearly have a Chrysler stamp on it.