Bansheemanche

Mine is a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-t. Bigger turbo, front mount intercooler, 3" GM maf. ect. Very quick when running. Makes me appreciated the MJ as far a reliability and cost of parts. The last 2 are older when I auto crossed it. Did horrible, the boost lag got me bad.

Well I will go out to u pull it tomorrow and see. They had multiple XJs. They had one MJ that I got some stuff off of but it was a 2wd. I believe the linkage is fine just need the bolt as the tard that put my tranny back in didn't tighten it.

Ok so I got a 88 Manche with a 4.0 and a BA10. I had the tranny rebuilt last fall and I went to engage the 4wd and it didn't go into it. I get under it and look and the linkage for the transfer case the bolt where it comes out of the cab and attaches to the tranny is gone. I need to replace this bolt but need to need to know the size. Any help would be appreciated. This is what I get from someone else to work on my stuff....

That interior makes me hard. lol Seriously great looking truck. Gotta do the drop shackles to mine and coil spacers. Love that look for cheap.

You ordered one too? I never got any email conformation or anything? Is that site up and running?

Thanks! Just what I needed, I got on rigid steel and ordered the 1987-90 2.5L & 4.0L XJ Cherokee, on intake manifold temperature sensor. Hopefully that is the right one as the description was off. Thanks again!

I was wondering where I can get a MAT sensor for my 88 manche with the 4.0 (renix)? I need one and can't see to find it through autoparts stores. Do I have to get this through the dealer or used?

I will try the pulling off the feel line and see if it pumps out gas. I can hear the pump trying to prime and run when I hit the key. It is the grommet next to the sock filter the fits on the sending unit assembly. It was definately rubber though. I don't know how I would replace it without getting a new tank though. And I am right though, the tank really doesn't need to drop the tank as I got everything swapped over? Then if I test it and no fuel comes out of the supply line then it isn't sealed right it won't pump or is it the new pump? Thanks

Ok so today I went to swap out fuel pumps. I get under there and see I have access to it without dropping the tank. So I take the old one out and swap out the new one. Now I have a hell of a time getting the sender to seat right up on the tank, finally get the ring on and go to try it out, here it prime then it just cranks no fire. I have no fuel pressure at all now. So I go and take the ring off again thinking it isn't seating right and do it again. Still nothing but the ring goes on but the sender doesn't look like it is perfectly centered, but the ring did lock it in. So my question is, is it impossible to get the sender to seal right without the tank out and turned on its side so I can have gravity work with me instead of against me? Anything else I'm missing? The grommet that holds the bottom of the assembly was rotten and just fell apart so I left it off, that is just to hold it not have any fuel going through it does it? Thanks

Ok so I checked the pressure again, and I noticed that when I prime the pump there is no pressure, I only get pressure when it is running after it cranks awhile. Then I turn it off and the pressure reading on the gauge is nothing. So what does this tell me? Possibly the regulator is going out or is it still the pump? Thanks.

Thanks a bunch guys. I was able to borrow a fuel pressure tester and at first fire it was at 32 then dropped to like 28. I reved it a it jumped to 23. I shut it off and restarted it and it started at 26 then dropped to 23. I did gut my cat alittle while back so that isn't an issue cause I thought it might be clogged also. The truck only has 106k on it. Thanks

Ok I am running out of ideas with this truck. I have replaced my coil and ignition module to fix a severe missfire around 1800-2200 rpm. I have done a full tune up obviously before this. I replaced the coil and ignition module and it run better for a day or so then it started missing under light throttle for again, not as bad as before. Well I continue to drive it for awhile then one day it starts running like it is breathing through a straw. No power, I couldn't get it over 25 mph unless it was flat or going downhill, no acceleration going up a slight incline. 0-60 in about 5 minutes, no joke. It cranks for a long time when I start it and i find if I cycle the key and prime the fuel pump alittle more then it fires right up. So I am thinking it might be more fuel related? Tried different gas, got a new gas cap, fuel filter and nothing worked. Sunday I drove it and it was dangerous to drive on the streets as I couldn't keep up with traffic anything more then a feather of the throttle pedal it would cut out completely, if I let up it would fire again. So I parked it till tonight when I go to take it out to try it and it runs fine. It has power and but still has the slight missfire on light throttle. Under WOT it would run fine but I could feel a slight drag on it and it would fully kick in and then it would go back to feeling like I am towing something. So I don't know what to do look for, fuel pump, tps or what? It isn't consistant at all, one day it has power and the next it feels like I'm driving a semi. I know I need to test my fuel pressure and see but I did replace the stock injectors with used ford 19# injectors back in december. Ran fine before and after I did that. It is on my 88 4.0L 5 speed Comanche. Any Ideas, I really need some help here. Thanks

Ok it has been sitting cause I have no clutch pedal at all. That has to be the master cylinder right? If my clutch was bad I would still have a little bit of a pedal and just won't work right?

A clutch could just take a dump like that one day it is fine normal pedal and the next day it will barely go into gear?

Seriously no help? I am mainly concerned about the clutch as yesterday I almost could get it into any gear. Clutch master cylinder? I need this truck or I'm SOL. Thanks.

No I forgot to. I should do that.

Hey, I was wondering about a couple things with my truck (88 4x4 4.0 BA-10). First off my truck as a bad miss when it is cold around 2k rpms and I hear it at idle missing. The IAC is on the way out I know that so my idle is irratic (bounces from 500-800 RPM). It always does that miss at 2k under normal throttle in every condition just worse when cold. I did a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and recently put in some ford 19# injectors. It did it with the old injectors too so it isn't them. I am thinking a the ignition module or coil? Now the clutch issue just started monday after work. Now it has been extremely cold here lately the last couple of days it has been 0 with a windchill of -20. So sunday I noticed my pedals where creaking and hard to press. Then Monday after work my clutch felt different like it engaged at a lower point and was hard to get into reverse and 1st. It has not gotten any better even though today it got above 30. It still works but feels different and softer and is harder to get into 1st and reverse. So I think maybe my slave cylinder is crapping out. I check the reservor and the fluid was still full. So I don't know, you wouldn't know the clutch is fine one day and the next day is sucks, so could it be the clutch itself? Thanks.

Looks great! Did you have to lift it at all for the 31's?

Ok at idle my MJ has alittle surge and was wondering what it might be. On the tach I installed the idle bounces between 700-500 RPM. Is my IAC going or what? This is on a 4.0L. Thanks.

Yeah she was a cali truck until 02 when she came to nebraska. Yeah I didnt feel like bluring them out this time, who cares.lol

Ok Not much to look at as far as lift and all the stuff goes but I finally got my paint job done. Ever since I bought the truck it thought it looked like a military truck so Drab green it was. The other paint job was getting really bad and I was starting to beat up the existing paint from sticks and stuff when wheeling. When I first got it, it was nice but it began to get bad fast so I did the bodywork and painted it using 10 cans of Krylon paint. Turned out nice. Honestly I don't like to paint a vehical with paint cans being in autobody but it is just a daily beater that will eventually get lifted to become even more trail ready. Anyway when I first got it, To now, I took off the front air dam thing and trimmed the fender flairs too. Next is when I get my job is to save up for a 4-6" lift so i and run some 33's

Ok thanks guys, that is what I thought.

Hi, I was wondering something. My old radiator bit it last week and today I got a new one. It looks the same as the other then it has 2 other plugins as opposed to my old original radiator. Now they didn't ask if it was a automatic or manual, anywhere I went didnt have any differences. Now the new one has plastic plugs in these 2 wholes that screw in. I am assuming that I would undo these if I had a automatic which I don't. Thanks.

Bump. All help is needed with this mang.

I didnt know either till I read enough summit racing and jegs magizines. lol