StevenH

The fusible link going to the fuel pump burned up for some reason. I decided to rewire the fuel pump relay to a factory style toggle switch and be done with it. Race cars do it, why can't i? :D Nobody will ever get far if they try to steal my truck either. like they would want that pile of #%$ to start with :oops: The way I look at it, problem solved. Can I get a public opinion on my decision to wire the pump to a switch?

I just took the coils out of my MJ and will be doing a 9" SOA swap in the rear this weekend if my parts get here. I already have my frontend pulled apart but I can mock it back up and take pictures. I'm doing extended brakelines also and can get pictures of that unless ya'll think that is too simple to make a how-to.

After closer evaluation, it's not wired up wrong. I am just going to straight wire the relay ground and call it a day. I can't think of any driveability issues by doing this.

Fortunately I have the day off to work on this :D Looking at the Renix Manual, my relay may be wired wrong. I don't see how that is possible, it doesnt look to ever have been tampered with. Nothing under the hood does. Where the wires come into the block that the relay plugs into, is sort of dirty and the dielectric grease or whatever it is, is there. According to the diagram in my Chiltons manual and now this Renix manual, it is not wired right. I thought that at the time I was looking at it and wondered how it could work. There may be a signal coming from the ECM after all and I did not detect it with the test light, I never even put a meter on it. I really think SOMEHOW it is not wired right, maybe it was driven after it stopped working and thats how the relay got dirty again after it was tampered with and it looks like it's unaltered. When I got the truck it did have a hot wire running back to the fuel pump but it was disconnected and they said they didnt know what was wrong with it. I'm suspecting the fiddled with the relay then found out it was the pump or something and then the relay was screwed up and they didnt know it so they bypassed it.... but who knows. Somebody talk me through testing the ECM feed to the relay, and what color wire to check, I am fairly sure it's the orange/black wire... right? I have a multimeter.

I saved it for later. thanks that site looks like it has a lot of info :cheers:

Ok, another diagram may shed some light on this.

Well, there are 4 relays in the same place I found the fuel pump relay. I know the second one from the front is the fuel pump but not the other three.

I gotcha. I read somewhere else that there was supposed to be an inertia switch and forgot it until you mentioned them. It's supposedly there but I couldnt find it. I'm not sure mine has an ASD. Where would it be?

I found my horn today, it was behind the bumper.. drivers side. There was a relay behind my drivers side kick panel, it was a three terminal relay and I think there is a horn fuse under the dash. The problem could also be in the steering column. Hope this helps!

So does mine have an inertia switch? I looked behind the drivers side kick panel and didnt find one there, there was the horn relay and another relay there. Where is the ASD relay located? My truck does run if I bypass the relay so I know my coil is getting power if that matters. The link you posted doesnt work either :D Thanks for the help guys, if I keep hounding ya I think ya'll can tell me how to fix this :cheers:

The ECM supplies a ground to turn the fuel pump on instead of supplying 12v+. When you turn on the ignition switch that automatically energizes the relay switch but it isn't grounded for the relay to function... the ecm provides this ground and none is coming from the ecm. What I might end up doing is straight wirng a ground to the relay, that way when I turn the ignition switch on the fuel pump automatically comes on. The only problem with this is.. 1. The fuel pump is always running with the ignition switched on 2. I have an accident on the road or trail and the fuel pump ruptures, the pump will spray gas everywhere until the switch is turned off. This may already be the case even running it through the ecm.

It's ironic that the forum is about the website issues and the title is misspelled :D May as well delete this thread and see how many newbies like me catch it :cheers:

There is no pwer even coming from the relay because there is no ground signal coming from the ECM. There is power from the red wire that comes from the fusible link and power with the ignition switched on to the relay. Speaking of the ballast resistor, what ohm resistor do I need to get?

I bought it non-running and don't know any history on it. If I run a hotwire to the pump it runs good. There is power coming from the fusible link to the relay and there is power to the relay when the ignition is on. Any ideas? Maybe the ecm is defective? Maybe the wire is broken somewhere between the ecm and the relay? What sends the ecm the signal to start the fuel pump? Maybe the CPS is defective.. could that cause it? Thanks in advance for any ideas!

The word "problems" is misspelled :D

I like the sheetmetal cuts on your truck, I am cutting my bed the same way :cheers: Just get a paint gun and spray it on, I see cheap HVLP guns sometimes that probably work good and you can get a gallon of paint for $20. Or leave it the olive drab that looks good.

Here is my 89 MJ 4.0 auto 4x4 project, looking at this thread mine is the black sheep :D 100% rust free. I'm lifting it 4.5" in the front, SOA with 9" in the rear 4.88 gears. Theres more I have planned, I will probably start a project thread here for it. I am painting it the same color as the CJ, hunter green. This is my second MJ I have owned, the other one was an 86 auto 2wd w/2.8 longbed Here is what I sold because I could see ruining it in the rocks, I wanted to extend the wheelbase also but just couldnt do it to this one... I have a soft spot for CJ's in that good of shape. It being carbureted was a factor involved also.